I am doing a mission style bed with 1″ thick crossrails at the headboard and foot. The bottom surface of the top rail is curved, so my 5/8″ square spindles that go from top rail to bottom rail are each measured and cut individually. The plans I have call for a 3/8″ tenon on spindle ends, and I have cut them accordingly, but cutting so that every shoulder of every spindle comes smack tight to the rail surfaces, when all are in place, is making me go through my cherry wood pile. I am thinking I should have eliminated the tenons and simply housed each entire spindle end in a shallow 5/8″ x 5/8″ mortise. No shoulder gaps to see at all. Right?
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Replies
This is the best way to go. Do you have a mortizer? if not, bore a 5/8 hole and finish with chisel.
Good luck
Bob
I had a similiar issue with Spanish Cedar garden benches. Basically 1 x 2 slats, mortised into an 8/4 curved top rail. With the nearly 2" of width, a curved shoulder would have been required, and I suppose it can be done with a radius jig and router, or some such thing, I elected to mill a full width stopped groove in the bottom of the top rail, and then backfilled each open space, as some do on a staircase, with each piece individually marked, milled, and installed, all at the same time as the slats, and with the top and bottom rails into the ends. Made for a lengthy glue up session, with 12 slats, and 11 gaps, and 4 mortise and tenon joints into the back piece of the side structure. Used West slow setting epoxy, and still it was close. Used the drive end of an edge sander for the interior curve of the fillers. Not sure if this would be precise enough for an interior piece; on the bench, one would need to squat a bit to see the detail.
Another option would be to cut the rails to size, shape the bottom to match the curve, then route a loose tenon in the rail and stile. This would be easier if your rail was wider than 1", but is still possible. Maybe a 1/4" mortise, 1/2 or 3/4" wide?
Just an option for you.
Regards,
John
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