Best table saw blades: min kerf 0.094” max body 0.079”
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I am looking for sawblades for my Dewalt job site DWE7491 Type 10 ( yes, type matters on this saw)
Due to the riving knife supplied, the blade must have these attributes as recommended by Dewalt:
min Kerf: 0.094”
max body: 0.079”
I have read several posts recommending all sorts of blades and so far I have been returning many that people claim are used with the knife but later find out they cannot. Also have almost purchased several blades only to find out they are too thin a kerf or to thick a body. One example is the Freud Fusion 10x40T – P410T. This is a thin kerf but it is 0.091” kerf and is not recommended to be used by Dewalt.
please do not recommend any blade not meeting the kerf and body requirements.
I am also asking about any tooth count for any purpose. Crosscut, ripping , glue line or clean cutting of hard/softwoods and ply is all in the realm of my needs. You have a blade you like that fits the criteria, list it and what uses you use it for.
thank you for your help.
Frank
Replies
It's notable that the minimum kerf is just a bit too thick for a thin kerf blade. Those are nominally .09375.
That leaves regular kerf blades, at .125. I have never once looked for, or noticed, body thickness measurements on blades. I know Forrest doesn't list them, but you could probably ask them for those details.
I can see why a minimum kerf width is necessary for the splitter, but why is there a max body thickness?
Consider making your own thinner knife? Although the factory knife on my SawStop is technically thin enough to allow use of the above-mentioned Freud blade, I was never happy with how it worked. I made a thinner knife from aluminum sheet and am thrilled with the result. The Freud Fusion blade is a tool I would hate to be without.
This blade from Ridge seems to fit the bill. It claims a. 095" kerf and a. 072 body. Ridge are lesser known than Forrest but make excellent blades out of NJ.
https://ridgecarbidetool.com/collections/table-saw-blades/products/10-x-40t-4-1-15-hk-top-072-095-thin-kerf-ts2000-super-combo-blade
The only reason I can think of that the body thickess matters would be the alignment with the riving knife although it may have something to do with the way the blade is attached, if it is attached like a portable saw it could be a factor.
I think that saw can take a dado blade. If so, it could take any single blade as well. I'd have to guess the blade thickness issue is splitter related. But I'm not sure how. Lots of guesses.
It could be something relatively trivial as a thicker plate would be more mass to spin and effect the overstated HP claims every manufacturer makes for those types of saws.
I've never heard this an issue. I did some checking and came up with some interesting results. I don't use TK blades, but if I did, I could see the issues
Freud -- Rip is .094, Ult plywood .098, all the rest are .091
DeWalt GenPurpose .095, Cross cut .098
I'm not aware CMT makes a thin kerf.
So that leave out most of the Freud TK's @ .091 -- assuming 3 thou is going to matter, which I doubt.
As for blades, I'm not of the "combo" camp. I believe the minimum is 24T rip and 60T cross.
Its a pretty common saw I would check on another forum and see what people use.
A TK knife for my SawStop is .090.
Everything is made internationally to be sold internationally. The US is the last holdout from going metric. The US is a big market but the rest of the world is a pretty big market as well. I know that the metric system is a communist plot but would a metric dimension blade actually be what your looking for? The manufacturer is telling you that you need a blade that doesn't seem to exist in our system. Look at Tenryu blades and see if that will work. They make a blade that is thicker than a thin kerf and thinner than a standard kerf. I had one here, don't remember the dimension.
Just for completeness, the riving knife is 0.087” thick on the dewalt. I would have thought that as long as you have a kerf larger than that, it should be fine. Someone once commented that the tolerances of the saw are why this saw needs the space indicated. I am willing to bet other manufacturers have the same thickness of knife but might allow narrower kerfs. Not sure.
You said you've bought blades and measured them. But did you actually put any on the saw and try them?
no out of fear I would be stuck with a blade I could not use.
So I went and looked at several popular blade companies and tried to get all that fit my limitations. Forrest did not post and only listed them as 3/32" and nothing more so I skipped them.
Ridge Carbide
10" X 40T AR 4+1 +15 HK TOP .072 / .095" THIN KERF TS2000 SUPER COMBO BLADE $149
10" X 24 STR +20 .072 / .102" TS2000 SUPER RIP SAW THIN KERF $129
10" X 24 ATB +20 .072 / .102" TS2000 SUPER COMBO SAW THIN KERF $139
10" X 40T STR +15 HK TOP .072 / .095" THIN KERF TS2000 FLAT TOP BOX JOINT BLADE $149
Freud
Industrial
10" Thin Kerf Rip Blade LU87R010 kerf 0.094", plate 0.071" 10 x24T
10" Thin Kerf General Purpose LU87R010 10 x 40T ATB Kerf 0.094", plate 0.071"
10" Thin Kerf Ultimate Plywood & Melamine LU79R010 10 x 80T Hi-ATB Kerf 0.098", plate 0.071"
Diablo
10x40T D1040UX Hi-ATB kerf 0.095", plate 0.071"
10x40 D1040X ATB K 0.098"/ P 0.071"
10x50 combination D1050X K 0.098"/ P 0.071"
10x80 Ultra Finish D1080X K 0.098"/ P 0.071"
10x60 Fine Finish D1060X K 0.098"/ P 0.071"
10x24 Ripping D1024X K 0.098"/ P 0.071"
10x30 Plywood Ripping D1030X K 0.094"/ P 0.071"
Amana
Mamba
10x50 4+1 15deg MA10050 K 0.098"/ P 0.071"
10 x 24 MA10024 ATB+F K 0.098"/ P 0.071"
10x42 MA10042 ATB+F K 0.098"/ P 0.071"
10x50 MA10050 4+1 Combo K 0.098"/ P 0.071"
10x60 MA10060 ATB+F K 0.098"/ P 0.071"
CMT
ITK Extreme
10x24 Ripping 250.024.10 K 0.102"/ P 0.071"
10x40 Gen Purpose 251.042.10 K 0.110"/ P 0.071"
10x50 Combination 256.050.10 K 0.102"/ P 0.071"
10x60 Fine finish 252.060.10 K 0.102"/ P 0.071"
10x80 Ultra fine finish 255.080.10 K 0.102"/ P 0.071"
Industrial Orange
10x60 Fine Finish 205.60.10 K 0.102"/ P 0.070"
10x40 General Purpose 214.040.10 K 0.102"/ P 0.071"
Of course those over 0.100" have me concerned b/c they are nearly a full kerf and this is a jobsite saw. Not sure it can handle that thickness. Technically, these all should fit. Only the Mamba line of Amana offered specs that would fit. no other Amana.
If taken first, that step could have saved you a couple of days.
What I find very interesting is
The saws top job site saw only indicates that a 3/32” kerf blade be used. They do not go into fine details of the measurements like other saws
Looking at the Bosch XC4100-10 jobsite saw, it has a thicker knife at 0.09” (2.3mm) but requires a blade kerf be greater than 0.092”(2.4mm ) with a blade plate being less than 0.088” (2.2mm). Following this logic, the dewalt should be able to use a blade with a kerf as low as 2.3mm or ~0.09” and a max plate thickness of 2.1mm or about 0.083” instead of the narrower 2mm or 0.079” they do require. What does this say about these tools? Why is the Dewalt requiring a greater margins of error with more gap? Does the saw have looser tolerances and because of this they need more space?
anyone use any of the listed blades?
Suggestions for :
10x24T FT
10X40/50 General Purpose/ Combo
10x80T Plywood?
In the Dewalt instructions they do also indicate that for a blade with no information that you could make a cut and do a test fit of the riving knife. If it slides through, you are good to go. If it binds, no go.
I was going to try the Premier Fusion 10x40T 0.091" kerf blade but was concerns that I would be stuck with it and decided to just return it.
I ended up ordering the CMT 10x40 Gen Purpose 251.042.10 K 0.110"/ P 0.071"blade to replace it. Not exactly thin kerf but we will see how it works out.
I have read that there are some talk of blade marks but they also seem to indicate that a blade stabilizer on thin kerf blades would be very helpful. Of course that would also reduce the depth of cut.
I can tell you that I use a 2.8mm kerf 10" blade in a 3HP table saw with a 3mm thick riving knife, without issue. The riving knife follows the blade closely but it's leading edge is a blunt knife shape (i.e. has a bevel) so the riving knife still passes with ease into & through the kerf cut in the wood.
The recommended blade kerf for this riving knife is 3.2mm but the 2.8mm kerf blade is fine. Because the riving knife is a teeny bit wider than the kerf, it reduces the chance of kickback even more than when cutting with the 3.2mm blade.
Any blade of a specific size should be made with a body thickness that prevents it flexing too much. That should be automatic (except for cheap & nasty things knocked up in the back of a shed in Texas) so you only need look for a blade of the required kerf.
Lataxe
Lat_axe,
Do you find with a thicker knife, you feel lots of friction? 0.2mm must show a bunch unless your knife is worn down or not really that thick.
I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to jump in to help anyone else who might be coming here for some answers.
I have a Dewalt DWE7491RS, and I pretty much exclusively use my Freud LM74R010 1/8" blade on it, these days. I ONLY rip on my table saw, and I'm exclusively doing hobbyist fine woodworking projects that require super clean cuts.
In the odd situation where I'm ripping something where the cut quality doesn't matter, I'll use my Freud LM75R010 (mostly to save wear on my full-kerf blade). Despite being a very nice blade, the 3/32" kerf on the 75R has a noticeable drop in cut quality (generally in the form of blade marks).
What about the riving knife with the full-kerf blade?
I have been unable to find a prefab full-kerf riving knife that will slot into my saw. I could make one, I suppose, but I haven't found it to be necessary.
The stock riving knife lines up with the edge of the blade facing away from the fence, and it should still do its job preventing binding due to pressure against the fence. Is it ideal to use a knife that's thinner than your blade? No. Is it going to mean that you're definitely going to have pieces kicking back on you? No. I learned on table saws that didn't have riving knives at all, and I have always believed that riving knives are not a good substitute for good planning and proper caution/respect.
What about motor strain with your full kerf blade?
I am generally going pretty slowly, so I don't notice an appreciable difference in blade speed between my full and thin kerf blades. Admittedly, my gauge for blade speed is the sound the motor is making, but I haven't had any other indications of issues.
Anyway, I just wanted to put this out there because I see a lot of people in a lot of threads making statements like, "you absolutely can't use a full kerf blade on a jobsite saw." If you want to really go by the book, I suppose they're right. That said, if you're properly slow, cautious, and thoughtful, you can make your tools work outside of the published specs... sometimes to great effect.
CMTs ITK blades work great. Took me forever to find. I have a 24t and 80t. On sale currently
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