FWW just published an article which selects the Triton plunge router as the best of the “new breed” of above-the-table adjustment routers for router tables. I have the old Porter-Cable 7518 but do not have a router lift.
So should I go out and buy a router lift or hould I buy one of the “new breed” or just survive as I have so far, with a powerful router and a lot of patience adjusting the height?
I’ve always thought conventional wisdom was that fixed base routers were best for tables. The Triton is a plunge, however. What’s up with that?
Aren’t router lifts still more precise than the “new breed” of built-in above-the-table adjustments?
Finally, if the “new breed” is so good, shouldn’t I expect a fire sale on router lifts any day now?
Cheers
Edited 12/31/2006 10:58 am ET by hopeful
Replies
I, too, have a PC 7518 in my router table - suspended in a JessEm Mast-R-Lift. It's certainly not an inexpensive set-up, but it performs to my satisfaction.
Were I to start from scratch for some reason, I'd want a test drive before I bought anything. 7518s are so ubiquitous that I had no difficulty finding several friends who would let me try theirs before I bought mine. I don't know anyone who owns a Triton, much less has one installed in a router table, which makes a test drive more difficult to arrange.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Another vote for the 7518 and Master Lift. It is a good set up. I have used other big routers and they would overheat easier.Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
You already have the 7518, so it won't cost much more than the cost of the triton to add a good lift to your setup, and you will have a great set up.
I have my doubts about the article because the author states that the PC890 takes two wrenches to change bits. I own one, and it has a spindle lock when you raise it up to change the bit, and only takes one wrench. Thus, I know he didn't read the manual. This leaves me questioning the entire article. If he got the simple facts wrong, why should I trust his opinion?
I wish PC would make an updated 7518, with features to improve it for router table and CNC use, which is what most of them seem to be used for. I would like to see:
1. ) A good base with and integral lift.
2. ) The speed control and on/off switch socket mounted on the router, so you could insert an accessory cable and use them remotely from the motor and not have to reach under the table to turn it on or off, and adjust the speed. This would also make it lots easier to control in a CNC situation.
3. ) Finally a round smooth top cap that you could slip a hose from outside the table over, to provide clean air from outside the router table to the motor for cooling without sucking up all the dust that is under the table. It can't be good for the motor to keep digesting the dust.
If everyone who reads this would copy and paste it into the PC comments page on their site, maybe they would do it.
Your suggestions are valid. I offer interim options; 1. I have mounted a switched power outlet under the router table top. With the router plugged into it, I simply reach under the dege and turn it on or off. Changing RPMs still has to be done under the table though.2. As for cooling, I purchased a "router enclosure" from Woodpeckers. With my DC hooked to the enclosure, there is plenty of airflow tfor cooling.Frosty
Those are options on controlling the 7518. And they work, but could be improved on. Wouldn't it be nice if for what you paid to install a remote switch, you could have brought all of the controls to the front of your table? If the option was available would you not exercise it?
I'm and Engineer, I design things, and have been taught to examine the intended use and design for it. Porter Cable hasn't done an update of any kind on the 7518 in years, and there have been quite a few improvements in technology since then. It's time they take a look at it with an eye on improving it. And, my suggested changes would all be pretty easy for them to do, with out sacrificing any on the strengths it has.
I own a few 690's including a variable speed, and the new 890. The 890 is a simple engineering evolution of the venerable 690 series, the bases, guides, and collets are interchangeable. The windings are better, and it is more efficient. With little effort they could make the same types of improvements to the 7518. It was the best engineered router of it's generation, and the one that all others are still compared to. But, it is time to rethink it and build on it's strengths to develop the new standard that all others are compared to. The blew the chance to lead the industry with the upgrade to the 690, and have lost market share because of it. The 7518 is starting to slip in it's market segment. Five years ago, there wouldn't have been much, if any, discussion on whether there was a better router for table mounting.
From a corporate stand point why would you want to let a bunch of after market firms make the money on the improved base, that you could. And, if you are redesigning the base, and it is very easy to add a spindle lock, for one wrench bit changes, with a power lockout, why not do it. Why, if adding a socket to the controls, you can market a link to allow remote control wouldn't you. The costs are low and the return high.
Adding an enclosure and hooking it to a dust collector, as you have done, is a good thing, and cuts down on the dust in the air around the router, but does not eliminate it. A round base that you could hook an air feed hose to would eliminate the dust, and add little to the production cost if you incorporate it in the next retooling.
The one thing I forgot in my listed of updates is: Recognize that many of them are run upside down, and review whether the bearings could be better designed for that configuration.
Why not make significant changes in router design when they are clearly warranted?
Because:
There is no margin in routers. Some routers are actually sold at less than their parts, production, marketing, sales & distribution costs! Add the Chinese factor (getting better everyday too) and there is no insentive. Dewalt 621 & 625's are more than 20 years old; still the same tool under different mgt.
Routers
Jigs,Your comments are appreciated. Before retiring I was an engineer also designing things both to work, fit a budget, and interface with existing systems. That led me to buy the Porter Cable (PC) 890 system. Its only fault that I have found so far is that chips can lock the motor into the base when used in a router table. Attaching a dust collection hose to the base has alleviated that problem so far.I do not leave the router under the table; I leave one of the bases there instead. Only guessing its value, but less weight on the phenolic adapter plate. I have the above-table adjustment tool, but it is so easy to reach under the table, I have never used it. All router controls are easy to reach with the base installed with clamp toward the front.PC recommends two routers for convenience when using their dovetailing jig which I use. The 890s allow me to have an optimum dovetailing system as well as a router table setup on a modest budget. It is one smooth operator to boot! So that is the best -- for me anyway. The choice was not good engineering, I must confess. It was somewhat serendipitous. I had bought the router and dovetailing system before getting a router table. All the careful planning in the world is no substitute for a little dumb luck!Cadiddlehopper
Not to hijack this too much, and I have learned to cringe whenever Festool gets added into a discussion, but one thing I've noticed is that when it comes to discussing the pros and cons of Festool routers, no one ever mentions their suitability for mounting in a table. Are they built at all to be table mounted, should one desire?
Evening Hopeful,
I have the PC 7518 in a Jessem Master-R-Lift, table and fence setup. The whole conglomeration is rock solid and performs like a Swiss watch - no surprises. There are cheaper setups, but I wanted and bought the best quality I could afford and I have never regretted it. The PC 7518 is industrial strength and never fails to deliver solid power every time I ask for it - the router coupled with the Jessem setup is probably the last one I will ever need - ah but what will technology tempt me with in the future?
Good luck in your quest.
Hopeful,
I just bought and installed the Triton into my Norm style router table with Rockler plate. First, let me explain, I bought the 3 1/4 hp Triton, the Triton reviewed was the 2 1/4...in addition to hp differences the 3 1/4 was made to be installed in a router table, although it is a plunge too but is easily converted(remove spring).
There are two adjustments mechanisms for height: a macro through the handle/knob, and, a micro to fine tune on the top of the unit. Turn the knob all the way with the unit off and the bit locks above the table for removal. Obviously, you need to have under the table access to adjust.
I have the router and vac plugged into a power strip so they both go on at the same time. So far it looks good...
Here's the kicker: the 2 1/4 Triton featured is $200 (about)at Woodcraft. Woodcraft sells the 3 1/4 Triton for $214
Edited 12/30/2006 6:38 am ET by BG
The 3.25 will be coming out I think in 07 with the above the table adjustment, that's the reason the price is so close to the 2.25. I have the 2.25 that comes with all the assessories. I like it a lot.
JJB
JJB,
"The 3.25 will be coming out I think in 07 with the above the table adjustment, that's the reason the price is so close to the 2.25."That's interesting and would make sense for Triton to offer that feature. However, IMO, the current below the table adjustments are quite adequate and fast. It does assume however, you have easy access to under the table top.
When I bought my Dewalt 621 (2 1/2),a few years ago, they had a similar difference in price( about $15 dollars) with the 625 (3 1/2). I bought the 621 with the intent of using it primarily as a handheld. I ended up installing the 621 in the router table with an adaptor to adjust the height. I wanted to free up the 621 for handheld work and went into Woodcraft to see the 3.25 Triton and Dewalt 3.5 in a side by side comparison. I was again tempted by the 2.25 Triton and all the freebies...but I held firm....I think...lol
At the Louisville, KY show, I saw a demo on raised panel cabinets & several other projects & he was using a triton router & it did a really good job,I thought it was a 3.25hp,but found out after the demo it was the 2.25 because it had the above the table height adjustment. Of course he was pushing his new router table he designed. Just $500 that had all fences that was demoed, not sure if the diferent fences were included. It didn't make any difference, there's no way I would pay that much for a router table {TOP]. BTW the adjustment is thru the top, pretty cool setup.
JJB
Edited 1/2/2007 12:20 am ET by JJB
When I built my router table, I bought the 7518 mated with the wood pecker precitions router lift. The thing can be adjusted in thousands. It's solid aluminum and chain drive. Give it a look you would not be dissapointed. There is a reason most of the big name router lifts fit the 7518 out of the box. You definately have a good router. I would not get rid of it, just put in the router lift. Give it a look you would not be dissapointed. If you can wait a little bit, get on their e-club list. You get a weekly flyer via E-mail with discounts. They regularly put them on sale for a little off the list price. Take care and good luck on the decision.
http://www.woodpeck.com/precisionrouterlift.html
P.S. Do an advanced search here on router lifts, and you will get lots of hits on differnt models of lifts to help you make your decision. Thats what I did.
I too have the 7518 with a Woodpecker PRL. Very nice setup with lots of power. I would keep the 7518 and look at a new lift.
TDF
What kind of problems do you have with the PRL that would make you want to change? A friend gave me a hex rod I chuck in my drill to run the lift up and down. Really works slick. If the lift gets "sticky" they recommend washing the screws with lacquer thinner to clear awau any sawdust.Frosty
The PRL does get sticky and I have not thought of your idea of chucking the key ot lower and raise it. If I were to do it again I would get the coursr screw as I believe this would be less prone to sticking. I will try the lacquer thinner.
Thanks
TDF
Try shooting it off with brake cleaner to get all the oils off, (I'd take the router out first), and then lube it with Dupont's "Teflon Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant". Yes, that really is the name of the product printed on the can, and I looked and can't find a product number or any better descriptor. I got the can I have at Lowers, about a year ago. It's is an excellent dry lube, that does not attract dust. It should keep the lead screw from gumming up.
You must have the 1/32 threads like mine. I can give you a tip. I use an old black&Decker electric screwdriver to raise and lower and it works great. Now I do use a router table from Norm's plans and have a DC hooked up and the dust pick up is good, so I have not had any problems with dust build up on the threads. You coud shoot some compressed air on the threads that could help for an ocasional cleaning. I do like being able to sneak up on a line. I have my PRL matched with the Incra LS-20 fence. What a combination.
Seems like the issue is more about changing depth than selecting a motor.
Selecting a motor.
Changing depth without spending money.
See message 15 to Jigs-n-fixtures.
Cadiddlehopper
Sorry, I must be a dummy. Do you mean the folder Jigs, Fixtures, Tips and Tricks? If so, how do I find message 15?Or do you mena a posting entitled Jins-n-fixtures? I couldn't seem to find one....
On the right hand side of the header is a message number stated as (15 of 18) or something like that. My message to you was 16. The previous one was 15 which was addressed to Jigs-n-Fixtures. Sorry for the misunderstanding.Cadid
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