Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 09, 2007 08:01pm | #1

   Most sacrificial fences are nothing fancy. Just a 3/4 x 4" board of suitable length clamped onto your standard fence. No need to make a big deal out of it.

   Howie.........
1. 
   SBerruezo | Mar 10, 2007 06:56am | #6

   Is there a special way to clamp it? I assume you mean the the existing fence. I have a DW744 portable saw, and don't see any good way to clamp on a sacrificial board without the clamps being in the way. 

2. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Mar 09, 2007 08:13pm | #2

   Morning epearso...

   Aluminum face with tracks attached for sliding a sacrificial fence on and off or simply.. just box it as I do on all my fences to make a Euro short fence! Here's the on what was a little portable saw (Ryobi)..

   And as Howard stated.. ya could just clamp it.

   Regards...

   Sarge.. jt

   
   

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   Edited 3/9/2007 12:15 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

   
1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Mar 09, 2007 11:26pm | #3

   Hi Sarge,

   I have a Bies and was wondering if you rerset the hairline cursor to compensate for the thickness of your SargeFence?

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Mar 10, 2007 01:02am | #4

   Afternoon Bob...

   Just up for coffee as I have 800 pounds of planer sitting on a crate in my shop that awaits. C-4 plastic explosive under that baby looks like the next step to get er down it appears. ha.. ha...

   Seriously Bob, the answer is no to moving the cursor to match the fence. The sub-fence face moves the cursor off mark by it's thickness, which in my case is 3/4" inch. What I did since I don't rip without the "short" is simply pull up and remove the old tape with the saw that was oriented to the Bies. I have a 24" framing square that I had my BIL true at the machine shop at Delta AL and I added a new self adhesive Starrett measuring tape to it. I measured from the fence side blade tip to the fence 5" with an arm of the L on the frame square riding the lenght of the fence and lock in the fence. Then I reverse the square and measure from the inside blade tip to fence on the rear of blade tip to confirm 5" at both points. 

   Then.. I re-applied a new self adhesive Starrett tape to the fence rail with the 5" I have confirmed from front and rear tooth to fence sitting "dead on" and splitting the cursor. Now we are "zeroed in" on an accurate read with two identical tapes to support each other. Even as it will be correct 99.9% of the time, I will still measure twice before I cut once (always) as you never know if that cursor got bumped at some point and the MT cut Once method takes that factor out of play for me!

   Back to tame the Monster lurking in my shop. ha.. ha...

   Regards...

   Sarge.. jt

2. 
   xmike | Mar 10, 2007 04:50am | #5

   Am I right in assuming that the purpose of the "short" fence is to prevent binding and kickback once the kerf passes the back of the blade?

   Orrrr, is there another reason that I haven't considered?

   Mike D

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Mar 10, 2007 07:01am | #7

   Evening Mike...

   You have assumed correctly. The very tail of stock being severed is completed around the 4-6 tooth in the front of the blade, depending on the thickness. But regardless for thickness, it will always be completely severed before center tooth which is the highest point in the arc of the blade.

   What purpose does the rear of the fence serve? None what-so-ever so their are really no "pros" in it's favor. But in the "con" department it is there and at the same distance to the blade as teh front of the fence that guides the stock to be severed at the correct distance. What can happen if you get a piece of high reaction wood is for the stock to "open" after it passes the splitter or riving knife. It then becomes a reality that the stock to the fence side could strike the fence and re-bound in the opposite direction. What is in the opposite direction after it has been cut by the downward front teeth is the "dangerous rear rising teeth". If the wood catches those (and it can even with a splitter on-board) the stock is going to grab and rise.. twist .. launch forward or who really knows what! Bingo... you have kick-back!

   Hope that helps explain.. Have a good look at where your stock is severed, then give thougth to what can happen if that stock does re-bound off the fence into those rear teeth. I did just this after having this explained to me by Sgain Dubh (Richard Jones who post here). I built a short fence the next day and won't rip without one at this point. It took me a hundred or so rips on scrap to get the feel for it. But after that it was as effort-less as driving a manual transmission car with clutch engagement and gear shift co-ordinated without thought.

   Regards...

   Sarge.. jt

   Edited 3/9/2007 11:05 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

3. 
   cowtown | Mar 10, 2007 09:07am | #8

   sacrificial fence works well if it has a piece of HPL on the face, just as long as it's on a flat piece of ply, and checked for accuracy...

   A 2x4'handipanel of HPL is available from most borgs, just don't expect to get yer choice of colour.

   Unlike a straight wood sacrificial fence, which will wear, HPL will maintain it's flatness and integrity much longer.

   Eric

1. 
   xmike | Mar 10, 2007 06:07pm | #9

   Duhhhh....HPL???  Google does not know what that is, either.

   Mike D