Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Jun 07, 2004 11:04pm | #1

   1 Oil based enamel is harder and more durable than latex. It's what I'd use.

   2 One coat of primer

   3 Spraying gives a more even, professional look, unless you like brush marks.

   4 Yes.

2. 
   SEBDESN | Jun 08, 2004 01:11am | #2

   Painted oak looks kinda funky, you can see the grain. If thats ok , if not, then fill grain.For a kitchen I would use pre or post catalyzed lacquer,  sprayed. M.L. Campbell is one supplier. Look on their web site for the details..

3. 
   rholland54 | Jun 08, 2004 01:55am | #3

   I just finished painting some existing maple plywood kitchen cabinet doors and drawers, previously stained.    I sprayed oil based paint with a recently purchased Asturo ECO/I  HVLP conversion gun.   I had excellent results.  Of course the maple plywood was smooth so I did not have any open grain concerns.    I made one mistake by brushing on a latex primer first, which required some sanding to remove the brush marks before I sprayed.  I should have sprayed on the primer.  I brushed on the paint for the cabinet frames on the wall.   Oil based is the only way to go with kitchen cabinets.

   Robert

4. 
   TomT226 | Jun 08, 2004 01:59pm | #4

   I wouldn't use oil or latex.

   I use Sherwin-Williams ProClassic 100% Acrylic for the finish, and the ProClassic primer.

   Take the doors off, then take the cabs off the wall. Make some kind of mark where the hinges are, so you can replace the doors to each cab and use the screw holes for the hinges.

   Sand the doors, face frames, and interiors to 220, and clean with denatured alcohol or naptha.

   I use a HVLP unit with a 2 qt pressure pot so I can spray at any angle inside the boxes.

   Run some tests on some brown paper until you get a good spray pattern with the thinned material(s) for your gun.

   Begin by spraying the inside of the boxes, then the face frames. I usually use two coats of primer, sanding the first. If you have grain to fill, use three and sand the first two.

   Be sure and use a mask, as spraying boxes (even with HVLP) will cause bounce back.

   Finish with 2-3 coats of finish. With my unit, thinning the primer 10%, and the acrylic 20% gives exellent results.

   This stuff doesn't yellow like oil, or block like latex.

1. 
   tryan | Jun 09, 2004 10:54am | #6

   I think I'll go with your suggestion with the acrylic finish.  I really want these cabinets to look "professinally done"  before I sell my house.  One last question, what type of hvlp sprayer do you need to do this?  I was thinking of buying a turbinaire system but am really unsure.  If I buy a spray finish system, I'd also like to be able to use regular wood finishes, lacquer etc.

   Tom

1. 
   TomT226 | Jun 09, 2004 01:53pm | #7

   I bought an Asturomec 9010/SP HVLP with a 2 qt CA Technologies pressure pot.

   For the acrylic finishes I'd reccomend a 2.2 MM needle assembly.

   For nitro lacquer I'd reccomend a 1.o MM, and for WB lacquers, a 1.3 MM.

   Two years ago the unit was $506.95 from Homesead Finishing.

   Jeff Jewett runs the show there, and gives exellent product support and finishing advice.

   Go to his site, http://www.homesteadfinishing.com, or contact him at (216) 631-5309.

   The Asturo doesn't require a huge comprerssor, and the fit and finish is superior to any other guns of that price range that I've seen.

1. 
   tryan | Jun 09, 2004 02:07pm | #8

   Thanks for the info, that's right around the price range I was looking for.  Also, what is the minimum compressor you can get away with?  I have a 2HP 6 Gallon pancake.  I've read in numerous places that you need at least a 6HP 20 Gallon Compressor to use a conversion system effectively. Tom

1. 
   TomT226 | Jun 09, 2004 07:50pm | #9

   You don't need that much to run an effecient HVLP gun.

   I've run this gun on an old Sears 3.5HP 15 gallon compressor. I've upgraded to a new Sears that is a 6HP (peak), 2 hp running, 30 gallon tank. It has the same cfm output as the old one, which is 8.4 @ 40, and 6.4 @ 90. All Sears compressors are over rated on their horsepower.

   The pressure pot will drastically reduce your air requirements over a suction gun.

   I set the compressor at 70 PSI going into the regulator on the gun. The gun regulator is set at 20-30 PSI. The pot is set from 2-20 psi, depending on what material you are shooting.

   This unit causes the compressor to cycle on much less than my old DeVilbiss cup guns.

   You might want to describe to Jeff your compressor and requirements so he can tailor a system to you individually. He did that for me.

2. 
   tryan | Jun 10, 2004 08:20am | #10

   Thanks for all the info.  I really appreciate the good responses, being that I have very little experience in this area :).  I love this forum.

   Tom

3. 
   jackplane | Jun 10, 2004 03:40pm | #11

   Just a note:

     You mentioned you'd use acrylic. Acrylic IS latex. Both are water-based modified plastic paints, although acrylic is a higher quality. Neither possesses the durability of oil or a pigmented lacquer. Just wanted you to know.

4. 
   Gretchen | Jun 11, 2004 05:53pm | #12

   And I will second the oil paint for kitchen PLUS the best primer you can find. Our painter used one called XIM.Gretchen

5. 
   tryan | Jun 11, 2004 11:45pm | #13

   Should I buy an Air drier for my compressor before it goes into the gun?  Lest I introduce uneeded moisture into the finish mix.  I want to make sure I do everything right before I pull the trigger.

   Tom

6. 
   TomT226 | Jun 12, 2004 03:19pm | #17

   Just get you an oil/water filter that installs between the compressor and gun. It has a clear container that catches what ever condenses in the feed line.

5. 
   HONewbie | Jun 08, 2004 05:43pm | #5

   We just finished painting the ugly particle board cabinets in our kitchen.  The doors and drawers were all removed, but the carcasses were done in place.  We prepped by scrubbing everything with TSP to get rid of grease and grime, sanding with 150 grit paper, wiping down again with TSP, wiping with clean water, and priming with a latex primer.  The paint we used was latex bathroom & kitchen paint from the big box.  Everything was either brushed or rolled with a small roller.  We were very pleased with the results.

   Will the latex big box paint last forever?  Nope.  But at some point we will get tired of this color and want something different, or decide to do a proper remodel and replace the cabinets, or sell the place to someone else who doesn't like the color....

6. 
   USANigel | Jun 11, 2004 11:55pm | #14

   Before you start painting the oak, could it be they just need freshing up? Your looking at a lot of work with oak if you want a smooth finish. Wood tends to be timeless. Lots of ventilation and a clean with formbys and you might just save a lot of time and money.

   But if you want/need some more tools then that ok too!

1. 
   tryan | Jun 12, 2004 12:34am | #15

   Well, personally (speaking for loml as well) I can't stand red oak.  Too country for my tastes.  If it were cherry, maple, or walnut, that's different.  Red oak is like the cracker barell of woods imho. Tom

1. 
   USANigel | Jun 12, 2004 12:49am | #16

   I understand as I have some very wild oak grain cabinets in my kitchen at the moment. It was just the fact you're moving.........