Hi Everyone,
I am building a builtin that contains an end with a desk and will have bookcases on top. It is supported by cabinets I have made. It measures 12.5 ft wide by 24 inches deep.
My confusion is for the top. I know I would like to have oak but the only oak available to me is 1x6x8′ (or 6′), so this will require a glue up. What is the best way to glue these up, especially the end grain where I have to attach the two ends together?
Thank you
Replies
Without a sketch or picture, it's hard to give an answer. My first thought was a scarf joint. Two articles have some information on how to make a longer beam with a scarf joint. Practice on scrap first. You don't have to use glue, but you can. It is a very strong joint and can be almost invisible.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/09/26/open-the-door-to-japanese-joinery
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021/09/30/japanese-joinery-in-practice
Thank you ecyor!
I don't have any pictures or sketches but here's an example of what I am building. In this case I'm referring to the black top, which in my case measures 12.5 feet x 24 inches deep.
Since I can only buy 1x6x8 oak I know that I have to glue the pieces together to get the required length and depth but a scarf joint "seems" like a tremendous mount of work for a top, no? I agree that it is very strong but is it overkill in this case? Are there no other ways?
Thanks again!
I agree with the others comments based on the picture but in regards to the scarf joint - once you've practiced and gotten over a short learning curve, they're not so hard. The story stick worked good for me in Andrew Hunter's article.
If you are thinking about gluing up a top 150" x 26" that is quite an undertaking for the hobbyist for a number of reasons. Many pros would be challenged to do it.
First you need a flat work surface close to that length, then you need a large number of clamps, far more than most hobbyist have. Then you need some strong extra hands to help maneuver such a large slab. If you can meet these requirements the procedures aren't much different than gluing up any slab. You can use Domino's, Biscuits, or Tongue & Groove to help with alignment, including the end grain. Clamping cauls are highly recommended and many of them. Your greatest challenge with such a large glue up is going to be keeping it flat and twist free which is where the cauls come in and the flat work surface will let you clamp the work piece to it to help keep it flat.
Another major challenge you will face is working time, so be sure to use a glue with extended work time and again a reason to have extra hands to help. I might also recommend doing it in 3 stages glue up 2 panels 13-14"wide then glue those together after the first 2 are glued up and well cured.
I am assuming you know to pay attention to grain direction to facilitate planing later and to stagger the end joint seams.
Thank you esch5995!
Yes, you bring up some very solid points which I have superficially thought about but seeing it in writing really brings home how much work it is, and I don't think I'm prepared to do that at the moment.
I'm not quite sure what my other options are for a top are then, oak plywood? But then I have to worry about getting the seams nice and tight. Do you have any recommendations for a top that would like nice once it is stained?
Thanks again, I appreciate it!
If your design is like the picture, follow MJ's advice and plan 3 slabs with seams at the uprights so that the butt joints are minimal and if you plan it right might look just like the other endgrain butt joints throughout the slabs. I always prefer hardwood tops, especially desk tops because plywood usually consists of softer core plys that are more easily damaged and even writing on them with a pen can leave depressions
Since you are pretty much stuck with seams in your top maybe breaking it into 3 parts would allow you to build it. Aim the seams to hit the verticals and it will feel "on purpose". You could pull the parts together nice and tight with something like this:
https://selbyhardware.com/collections/table-hardware/products/countertop-joiner
In a perfect world, you would have boards long enough to avoid a butt joint. But if that's all the material I had, I would glue 3 sections, and have most of the joint hidden by the uprights on the upper cabinet. Use biscuits or splines to keep the butt joints from shifting. Sand it in place, finish, then build the upper portion.
It's not the best solution, but we always have to consider compromises.
Doh. I wrote what MJ did. Great minds, and all that.
Slowing down there JC2.
Typing with one finger is no great shakes.
Another vote for SawStop!
I recently made a 125”x20” counter. I found a local veneer shop and them make a 126”x16” panel. Cost me $230. I then faced it with a 4” bullnose. You could look for a local veneer shop and have a custom panel made then face it.
Thanks Chuck! That's a good idea, I'll look into that!
If you are considering buying a commercial product look into companies who produce wood countertops. I use Grothaus(https://www.glumber.com/) located in Pennsylvania's Amish country and if you are in the Mid-Atlantic region I can recommend them, but I'm sure every region has a similar supplier. I still will say I much prefer solid wood tops for desktops versus softer veneers.
Thank you both MJ and John!
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