I recently purchased some Indonesian-made textile hangers, through-carved, about 68 x 10, which have a black stain on them.
I know this is extremely difficult to remove entirely, but I’d like to match as well as possible other woods where these will be hung — sort of a rich honey color.
Any ideas on what products/strippers to use? And (2) what sort of product I should use to attempt a close match to rich honey?
Thanks.
Replies
gimp,
Do the pieces have finish on them? If so, you'll have to strip first (paint/varnish remover). I'd try oxalic acid, chlorine bleach, peroxide, and two-part wood bleach, in that order. You may have to stain after bleaching to restore the color to the wood, especially if you use the two-part bleach.
Regards.
Ray
Just to expand briefly on Ray's superb suggestion...
What he implied with the variety of bleaching materials he suggested is that what will take out the black marks very much depends on what caused them. Without knowing what caused the marks pretty much forces you to try each of the 4 known wood bleaching methods... Or at least to consider them. Each method is known to work on very specific sources of coloration and not so well (or not at all) on other sources of coloration. The short answer is that it all boils down to chemistry as far as which solution will end up taking out your black marks.
I don't think anyone can offer you any advice better than what Ray has.
Thanks to both Ray and Kevin for your well-considered suggestions. I'll try the bleaching procedures in the order suggested -- at least, once the temps here in Florida decline from the 90's because this is work I'll do outside, at least in the carport, and I don't relish keeling over from either the temp or fumes.Gary
Sorry I just HAD TO.. Indonesian-made textile hangers??? A PIC would help me
Glad to oblige!Here are two photos of rather fancifully carved Indonesian textile hangers in .gif format. Among this and other cultures -- the Portuguese imported the idea to their holdings in Goa, India, for example -- such hangers (note the thin carved slot along the bottom edge) suspended over doors would provide a sort of colorful screen and protect the inside from sun and flies. I've threaded through a piece of silk scarf we brought back from Rajasthan, India, last year, to give you an idea of how this works.Gary
Ohhhhh. When you said black stain I thought you meant just a small area. I didn't realize you mean like a wood stain.
The lacquer/varnish stripper should take most of that stain off. Being Indonesian I would guess that it's a lacquer finish. Probably nitro lacquer since it's cheap and easy to work with.
What I would do would be to use the stripper to take as much off as you can. Then, wearing gloves of course, use synthetic steel wool (scotchbrite pads) and lacquer thinner scrub them down good using the lacquer thinner liberally. Usually you can coax more stain out of the wood pores this way. And be sure to have plenty of rags on hand to soak it up. It's best to wipe the wood down while it's still wet. Otherwise you're just moving stain around without really removing much of it.
Also, sawdust works just as well as rags do. A bit messier than using rags, perhaps. But, sawdust has some advantages. Often you can get it for real cheap or free if you generated it yourself. And perhaps more importantly, sawdust has no long fibers which can snag in sharp corner.
I would do that and then assess where you're at before going forward with any of the bleaching solutions.
If I may add a suggestion....rather than use a bunch of rags to soak it up, spread out wood shavings. I refinish doors quite often and use the shavings to soak up the stripping agents and residue stains. Works well.
just a couple of pennies i thought i'd throw in.
rasko
I'd tell them BACK is Beautiful AND Fits right into the design!
I had though you mean a stain caused by contamination, water or some other type thing.
To remove the finish, I would use a good paint remover. If you have a residue that is black, you may be dealing with a dye stain. If so, chlorine bleach will remove it. A new bottle of clorox can be used but swimming pool bleach is stronger and will work faster/better.Howie.........
Thanks to all for your suggestions, comments. I learned something else from this: that a picture is worth more in setting the parameters of a discussion, at least about an object, and helps to concentrate answers on the problem rather than letting opinions about what is meant intrude. And I'll be more careful in future posts to be as clear and unambiguous as possible!Gary
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