Replies

1. 
   philip | Jan 02, 2010 06:31pm | #1

   Jack, I take it that you refer to the hole at the end of the slot and are talking about the standard Stanley type iron. If so then that hole can be enlarged by use of a file. The steel is not that hard that it can't be filed with a round file but the file must be in good condition , the work supported well and preferably a fine tooth type. I haven't found one iron yet that cannot be filed- even at the bevel, but you need to press firmly and " engage" the teeth before it can cut-and no cheap files....

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 02, 2010 07:44pm | #2

   I take it that you refer to the hole at the end of the slot ..

   And why not just file a bit off of the head of the screw that holds the blade? Chuck it up in a drill press and away you go with a file... Be careful!

1. 
   [email protected] | Jan 02, 2010 08:48pm | #3

   Thanks Philip, and WillGeorge,

   Actually there is no "hole" at the end of the slot, that's what I need to create--Ron Hock's little irons have a slot for the cap screw, but no hole to release it. Those irons are hard; I'll have to get new round files to go at it, the old ones I have around just don't cut it. Any suggestions for what to look for--Nicholson files, or are there harder ones available?

   WG, I don't want to machine the screw head any further, I've already machined it down to mate precisely with the socket in the brass lever cap.

   RD

1. 
   roc | Jan 03, 2010 06:40pm | #4

   Diamond file. That is what I use for shaping the plane blade radius for roughing blades. I tried a steel file to create a radius.

   Yah right. Not a hope in Hades.

   I looked for USA manufacturer for large diamond files but no luck so maybe these guys.

   http://www.duracut-tools.com/hand_files.htm

   See large hand files, round.

   Probably going to cost serious bucks. What does Hock recommend ? May be cheeper to send it back to him and have him do it or send a blade that is drilled before hardening.

   Philip I think your heat treating guy is yanking your palm wrangler about hardening your blades. I been able to file scrapers but plane blades should be about as hard as a file. I would wear out a brand new file before I got a slot enlarged into the screw clearance hole described.

1. 
   philip | Jan 03, 2010 10:45pm | #5

   Roc,

   I am talking about Stranley type blades-I say again "Stanley type blades"- did you copy that??

   These are easily filed at the end of that slot provided there is a decent file and filer because the hardening is tapering off by that stage. And you can just manage it at the bevel but only just-the first time the file skates is when it ceases to cut, hence the need to make the teeth bite first.

   I have had reason to grind the bevel and hone two of those Hock blades made in France-didn't file them but same comment.

   No doubt a diamond file would do it well but haven't seen one of diameter half inch or so.

2. 
   Ray | Jan 03, 2010 11:50pm | #6

   Wrap the "business end" of the blade in a wet cloth and anneal the area you're trying to cut with a propane torch. It doesn't have to get red hot, just discoloring the area should remove enough of the temper to allow filing.

1. 
   roc | Jan 04, 2010 02:46am | #7

   Ray,

   You probably know more about it all than I do but some of this steel is on the order of the highspeed steels and once hardened it doesn't anneal readily. No actual experience here with Hock blade just other tool steel like drill bits. File steel anneals no prob. Interesting thread. Look forward to hearing how it turns out.

3. 
   derekcohen | Jan 04, 2010 12:13pm | #8

   [i]I need to widen the slot slightly to clear the head of the bolt so the iron will come out for honing without unscrewing the bolt each time. [/i]

   Jack

   Don't waste your time doing this. I have a couple of Hock blades with cap irons (including a set in a plane made by Jim Krenov). I just unscrew the cap iron each time. It takes little time to do so and I do not see you saving any by adding a hole. If it was good enough for JK ...

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   [email protected] | Jan 04, 2010 09:19pm | #9

   Thanks everyone for your suggestions--I ended up managing to grind a hole just large enough to get the iron on or off of the head of the bolt by using the method I originally attempted--putting a small parabolic shaped grinding stone in a chuck, and persistently grinding away. Filing didn't get me very far--the iron is 3/16" thick and still very hard at the bottom end of the slot. It's not a pretty hole, but it works, and no one will be the wiser while it is under the brass lever cap.

   Derek, I had to do it--I'm not using a cap iron screwed to the cutting iron, I am anchoring the cutting iron to the bed of the plane using a shop made brass lever cap of a design similar in principle to that used by Veritas for the low-angle jack, for instance. I.e. 1/4" bolt into threaded insert in the bed, which restrains the lever cap. It has the virtue of not requiring much subsequent fettling to get a precise mate between lever cap and iron. But improvising as I am doing with stuff I had lying around the shop means that I had to modify the iron, or unscrew the whole apparatus each time.

   Best,

   jackmaggs

1. 
   danmart | Jan 11, 2010 05:43am | #10

   Could you post a photo at some point? I'd like to see this project.

   thanks

   dan

1. 
   [email protected] | Jan 14, 2010 06:40pm | #11

   Yes, I'll post a couple, new
   Yes, I'll post a couple, new thread since I don't see a way to attach photos to the reply.

   jackmaggs

1. 
   roc | Jan 15, 2010 11:19pm | #12

   jackmaggs,

   See this thread

   http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/general-discussion/signing-your-work

   , a ways down, to learn more about using Photo bucket to post photos to a comment. Yah I didn't read this thread called "Signing your work" until I learned it had Photo bucket info then enjoyed the rest of the thread to.

   Hang in there,