Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Jan 12, 2020 06:36am | #1

   I had a project a few years back where the goal was a white finish the you could see the wood grain through. I mixed water based poly with white latex paint, about 2:1 (poly 2) and the result was nice enough that I did not topcoat it.

2. 
   s_g_martin | Jan 12, 2020 10:47am | #2

   _MJ_

   I didn't know that was something one could do, thanks for the tip. I have to edit my question, what I am looking for is the best "bleaching" techniques. I have read mixed opinions on bleaching White Oak, do you have any knowledge on this?

3. 
   drew_z | Jan 12, 2020 01:49pm | #3

   If they do truly want bleached white oak, I have had good results with Zinsser's 2-part wood bleach. As you indicated in your post this would need a top coat; this is just a tinting process not a protective finish. The wood bleaching process is fairly simple. Michael Robbins' Try a Bleached Finish from FWW #263 (https://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/07/06/try-a-bleached-finish) can be helpful on process / technique.

   I will just add that I had a client who wanted "bleached ash" finish. After many rejected samples, they sent photos of what they actually were after and it was best achieved by diluting latex paint to create a pickling stain. The pickling stain was rolled/brushed on and all excess wiped off. Repeated process as necessary for even coverage. Once this was dry/cured, I used a water-based topcoat (trade off in protection from oil-based was worth it to avoid yellowing over time) in a flat finish. The client was happy with the finish. This isn't better or worse than bleaching; in the end it was just the best way to get the look the client wanted. Photo attached.

   
4. 
   _mj_ | Jan 12, 2020 02:42pm | #4

   Find out what your client sees as "bleached". More likely a look than a process they want. I have never used bleaching chemicals on wood. Oil will add warm tone and counter the efforts to whiten. I would advise all waterborn here.

   Make up some test panels and give them a decision to make so they can't dislike "your" choice later.

5. 
   gulfstar | Jan 12, 2020 04:07pm | #5

   These are my favorite finishing products, see if your client is looking for the whitewash color on this link shown on oak, could be an easy solution.
   https://generalfinishes.com/all-colors

6. 
   JoshWafer | Mar 30, 2020 03:13am | #6

   If this thread is still active...or if we're just sheltering in place...or whatever; I just got a request for a solid bleached white oak kitchen table top.

   Kind of going on the assumption that the designer was either blowing smoke or following the white oak bandwagon, I decided that while I was making the white oak sample board, I'd make one out of red oak as well. On each board there were 4 sections: my controlled variable (clear coat), then 3 sections of 2 part bleach. One of those sections got a whitewash after the bleach, one of them got a 2nd bleaching, and the 3rd got Liming Wax after the clearcoat. I ripped a keef down the middle of the board, making 8 sections, and did a water based clear on one side, and oil on the other, to show the distinct difference between them.

   This is a long, shelter-in-place induced way of saying that although white oak was specified, red oak with a bleach coat and whitewash with an oil topcoat won the day.

   So never stop believing or something.