Replies

1. 
   quatersawn | Aug 06, 2002 02:21am | #1

   Don't have a powermatic saw, but i know on my older Unisaw, if I don't tighten the knobs on the height and bevel adjustment wheels, I get some run out.

1. 
   DonStephan | Aug 06, 2002 04:23am | #2

   If (what seemed like) gobs of posts were devoted to the differences between jigs and fixtures, perhaps you would be willing to describe what the piece looked like instead of just calling it runout?

   Over the past few months the blade on my 64A was binding on the left edge of my mdf insert, but wasn't noticing any problem with the pieces I have been cutting. Finally checked the blade against the miter slot and found it was not parallel. Loosened the four bolts securing the trunnion to the bottom of the table, fiddled with moving the trunion back and forth for about 30 minutes, finally got it where I wanted it and parallel to the miter slot again. (The trunnion seemed to move sideways as I tightened the bolts, which is most of the reason for the 30 minutes.)

1. 
   alias | Aug 06, 2002 04:56am | #3

   don- this all took place towards the end of the day and just prepped the saw first thing to take the top off and look at all the bolts and so forth.the problem was when i went to bevel 36 degrees the piece's are usually not a problem it was next to impossible to push it threw the back of the blade(outfeed) was 3/16" diffrent from infeed.which is substantial, another important thing i forgot to mention was 6 months ago the bottom frame finally gave out one leg collapsed and i made a larger base very sturdy, and lots of heft, with wheels ,plenty of room for all my jigs so forth and attached it to the new base. but i did check for run out and there was not . every thing checked out , i had a resonably hectic day and was real hot, and was some what wound up. with two guys out with the monday morning flu, i've got my brushes, paste wax ,w-d 40. one question did you have to shim the top when you we're finishing up. and how old is your saw? thanks for your time bear

1. 
   DonStephan | Aug 06, 2002 05:15am | #4

   If I understand correctly, the back edge of the saw blade was closer to the fence than the front edge? If it were mine, I'd first check to see if the blade is parallel to the mitre slot, then check if the fence is parallel to the mitre slot. Today I had to move the trunnion to bring the blade back to parallel with the mitre slot. Just loosened the four bolts about 3/4 turn, then used short 2x4 to lever the trunnion sideways. Didn't have any need for shims. I have more often found the fence to be out of parallel with the mitre slot (and blade), and I wonder if that could be the situation you have. If so, likely much easier to correct.

   Purchased my 64A in 1998. Good luck!

1. 
   alias | Aug 06, 2002 01:12pm | #7

   the blade was parallel to the fence when completly raised at 90 degrees, also lined it up with miter slots everything at 90 degrees. at a bevel everything was out of alignment. thanks don i'm out the door.... staywell bear

2. 
   forestgirl | Aug 06, 2002 07:04am | #5

   Bear, I'd suspect that you can fix this problem with the adjustment recommendations made in these posts.  You want to be careful not to loosen the trunnion bolts too much as you can end up getting the entire carriage assembly out of square and then you'll have a real nightmare on your hands (you can guess how I know this!).

   PS:  The term runout is generally used to describe a defect such as an arbor that doesn't run in a true concentric path (somethin' like that -- I need help describing it).  The problem you seem to be describing is alignment of either the blade to the miter slot or the fence to the blade (and therefore miter slot) or both.  All these things can be lined up when the blade is at 90 degrees, and still be out of alignment when the blade is tilted.  Not fun, I know.  I had to have a Jet service guy fix mine it was so bad (saw had probably been dropped prior to my getting it).

   The good ending to my sad story was that the service guy then offered me a pair of cast iron wings to replace the sheet metal ones for only $30.  That was a treat!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   alias | Aug 06, 2002 01:04pm | #6

   thank you for the help, and the correction on the terms, out the door right about now. cheers bear

2. 
   noone51 | Aug 08, 2002 07:48pm | #8

   Bear, its possible that the problem you are experiencing is caused by your trunion being out of square. The trunion on your saw is not adjustable for square. It relies on the two long rods on either side of the trunion to be seated and tight. If the large nuts at the back mount have loosend you can try tightening them. I think you would want to relieve any tension on them first. You can loosen the four trunion to table mounting bolts to accomplish that. You also probably want to get the two nuts comparable in tightness so using a torque wrench is probably a good idea. You don't need to over do the tightening.

1. 
   alias | Aug 08, 2002 11:30pm | #9

   will do thanks for your time and advice, love the name .