Replies

1. 
   sapwood | Jul 28, 2006 08:21pm | #1

   use a hand plane

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 28, 2006 08:23pm | #2

   I second the use of a hand plane. 

2. 
   Routerman | Jul 28, 2006 08:47pm | #3

   This one done with routers and special fixturing. Tapers to 3/8 from 1" over 9".

   Messy, slow, but cool result.

    

   Routers

1. 
   mike_b | Jul 29, 2006 09:22pm | #7

   "This one done with routers and special fixturing"Very nice table. Your design?

   Edited 7/29/2006 2:23 pm ET by Mike_B

1. 
   Routerman | Jul 29, 2006 09:41pm | #8

   Yes thank you. And another view:  Here.

1. 
   mike_b | Jul 30, 2006 04:02pm | #11

   "Yes thank you. And another view:"It's elegant! Can you give a little more detail on how you use routers and special fixturing to produce the long bevel?

1. 
   Routerman | Jul 30, 2006 05:12pm | #13

   Make ramp as long as taper + 4-6", with 2-3" gap. Ramp rise/run, obviously made to angle desired. Ramp must be heavy duty and not deflect . Aluminum good choice.. Router, with collar straddles gap.

   Straight cutter, big one, does the cutting in stages, plunger best choice. TYpe-write-rout. Cut the taper, move the ramp over, reclamp, rout, reiterate etc. Once you get the synapse it's quick but you don't get it until you're damn near done. Did 6 of these, last one took only about 15 minutes/end and that was a hell of a lot of waste.

   Routers

3. 
   jackplane | Jul 28, 2006 09:38pm | #4

   a handplane is good; you certainly come to appreciate the wood you are working.

   you can also as suggested use a router  with a long straight shanked bit and a router on a jig set to cut this in several passes. i once made raised cathedral panels  for an oak door this way when no shaper was available.

    

4. 
   Elcoholic | Jul 28, 2006 09:54pm | #5

   I take most of the material off with a large mortising bit in a 3hp router using a ramp jig.  Then clean it up with a block plane and or sanders.  Once made, the ramp jig can be used on straight or curved edges.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   The more things change ...

   We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized.  I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.

   Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC

5. 
   KeithNewton | Jul 29, 2006 01:36am | #6

   If you have a sled, you can make a support bracket to keep it plumb pretty easy.

6. 
   joinerswork | Jul 29, 2006 09:53pm | #9

   tfk,

   If you have a radial arm saw, that would be an option.  Might need to attach an auxillary table in front, if blade adjustment isn't adequate for the thickness of your top.

   Regards,

   Ray

7. 
   BruceS | Jul 29, 2006 10:34pm | #10

   Another way would be to use a panel raiser bit and set the fence a little further out, but you would get a 16 degree bevel about one inch back from the edge.  That would avoid running the board vertically.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

8. 
   SgianDubh | Jul 30, 2006 04:27pm | #12

   A quite simple method is to use a variation of hand planing to do the whole thing.

   Start by marking the extent of the bevel with a pencil. You can use a pencil like a marking gauge in a few ways. First you can simply hold it between your fingers and use your middle finger as a fence and mark a line. Second you can use an adjustable square and hold the pencil on the end of the blade and run the pencil along the edges and ends of a board using the square stock as a fence. Third, you can use a tape measure, extend the blade, jam the pencil in the hook and use a finger as a fence whilst holding the body of the tape. Lastly, you can take a cheap marking gauge, bore a hole in the arm and stick a pencil in the hole.

   Anyway, whatever method you use you can pencil two lines-- one showing the extent the bevel on the wide face, and the second marks the extent on the narrow edge.

   Next, but only if you've if you've got an electric power plane handy I'm afraid, you tear off the bulk of the required bevel with this tool-- end grain first, then the long grain, always working anti-clockwise around the panel. (This means spelch on the end of the cut end grain is cleaned up by the subsequent pass on the long grain-- just as in routing really.)

   Lastly, fine tune with hand planes. This method works very quickly for straight edges and even for gently convex curved panels. Slainte.

   Richard Jones Furniture

9. 
   derekcohen | Aug 03, 2006 03:53pm | #14

   any advice on how to bevel the edge

   I usually use one of two methods when bevelling edges. Both involve handplanes.

   The first is to do as Richard suggested - mark off the two sides, then plane between the two with a plane (one can remove wood quickly with a scrub or a jack, then smooth off with a block plane or smoother).

   The second is to use a dedicated campher plane. I built the following one:

   View Image 

   I use two blades - one low angle for end grain and one high angle foir face grain. Works like a charm to produce precise bevels of 45 degrees.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

10. 
    dwolsten | Aug 05, 2006 12:44am | #15

    With a 25-degree bevel, it doesn't sound like you're doing anything as extreme as what we see in those photos. If you plan on doing a LOT of bevels like this, you might just want to build yourself a simple dedicated plane like Derek from Perth has.

    Otherwise, if this is more occasional, I think a simple solution would be to make a simple mitered block which rides along the bottom edge of the top. A simple hand plane (one with the sides square to the sole) would sit on the block. The side of the plane would rest on the block, and the sole would ride along the edge of the tabletop, creating the bevel.

    The angle of the mitered block would either be 25 degrees or 65 degrees, depending on what exactly you mean by a 25-degree bevel (25 degrees from the edge, or from the top).

    Here's some crude ASCII-art to illustrate:

                             /

    ------------     /

                     |   /

                     | /

    ------------/________

    The rectangle on the left is the tabletop, and the angled piece on the right is the mitered block. Set the side of the plane on the block and the sole will plane the top corner of the tabletop to that angle.

1. 
   derekcohen | Aug 05, 2006 05:00pm | #16

   At the risk of making it appear that all I do is plane bevels, here is another guide I made for the LV BU Jointer.

   In the first picture is the makers' jointer guide:

   View Image

   In the next picture is the bevel guide:

   View Image

   View Image

   Along these lines is the vintage Stanley #386 jointer guide. This is adjustable for any angle:

   View Image

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

    

    

    

    

11. 
    KJ | Aug 06, 2006 07:38pm | #17

    I find that noting beats a well tuned block plaine. It has great finish quality and just enought inconsistancy to show that you cared enough to do it by hand.