Replies

1. 
   jvs | Apr 15, 2003 07:51pm | #1

   Doing a bevel by hand would likely be easier than power equipment in something that small and quicker to do.  It may help to do the initial bevel by eye with a sharp plane and then use a guide block to adjust the final angle; it can also be done completely by eye with some practice.  Not sure how to include an image in posts, but there is a link below...

   /jvs

   http://66.95.232.147/icons/bevel.gif

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/15/2003 12:54:20 PM ET by jvs

2. 
   BenM | Apr 15, 2003 08:21pm | #2

   It's not too hard to do it with a plane.  Use a marking gauge to lay out the edges of the bevel on both the top and the edge of the top.  BUT don't use the knife or pin of the marking gauge; substitute a pencil.  That way you won't be left with knife marks.  Plane to the lines.  You don't have to be too careful when you start but as you get closer to the line adjust the plane's angle so you are parallel to the final surface.  You didn't say how big the bevel is but I'm imagining something like 1 inch by 5/8 inch deep.  Shouldn't take more than an hour.  Also, make sure the blade is sharp and do the two ends first, then the long grain.

1. 
   BG | Apr 15, 2003 10:27pm | #4

   JVS and BenM,

   Two of the sides would be end grain.  Do I need to plane with the grain still or is perpendicular to the grain okay? thanks

1. 
   ownersrep | Apr 16, 2003 12:18am | #10

   I've always been taught to do the end grain first - either with router or hand plane and then when you do the sides you'll clean up any tearout you get on the end grain.

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 16, 2003 12:34am | #12

   Jim

      Good point to make. I probaly should have. I sometimes forget that not all are at the same level and even if they already knew, someone might pick up something they didn't know.

      Guess those big printing companies won't be asking me to write any text books anytime soon. ha..ha..

   sarge..jt

1. 
   BG | Apr 16, 2003 01:01am | #13

   Sarge and all,

   I did it ...and it came out perfect.  Took a couple of passes with the hand held router and finished it with the #4...piece of cake.  CFO is pleased...whew!...(that won't last long)...lol    thanks all

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 16, 2003 03:05am | #14

   BG

      Congrats!!! Next.... ha..ha..

   sarge..jt

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 15, 2003 10:16pm | #3

   BG

      I wouldn't use the TS. I would use my Bosch hand-held planer that has a groove on the bottom for beveling. Or, I would bevel with a router. To eliminate tear-out in either case, I would clamp a piece of scrap birch on the entry side and the exit side.

      Yep, it would require 4 different clamp-ups and passes with the planer or router. The hand planer method mentioned will work also. It will take even longer. If I wanted fast-furniture, I would just drive thru the window at Ethan-Allan. If I want home cooked furniture, I take the time to make sure all steps have the proper ingredients.

      This is just my approach as I see it. Opinions will vary. ha..ha..

   Good Luck...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   BG | Apr 15, 2003 10:30pm | #5

   Sarge,

   So you would dothe routing on a table only?...not use a the hand held router? thanks

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 15, 2003 10:42pm | #6

   BG

      The table will be more forgiving. The table and fence are in a firmly fixed position, so there is less chance for a slip-up. If I did not have a table, I would just clamp the glue-up to my work-bench. As long as you are careful to keep the router flat and balanced, you still get the same results...IMO...

      If you were to clamp the piece to the bench or whatever, be sure to pad it where the clamps touch to keep from bruising ( ahhh crap, you know all that..disregard..ha.. )

   sarge..jt

1. 
   BG | Apr 15, 2003 11:00pm | #7

   Sarge,

   This top (30x31x1) has a bit of weight to it and my current router table is rather small so that is why I'm asking all the stupid questions.  Now if I used a router bit with a roller bearing..I need to take several small cuts all the way around each time before lowering the bit if using a hand held or raising it up in the router table.  Is that correct?

   I'm kinda thinking of hand planing first (get rid of the bulk of the wood)..and finishing up with the router.

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 16, 2003 12:17am | #9

   BG

      Yep, you should take several passes. The idea to take the initial off with a hand plane will be fine. I have worked with birch quite a bit and that hand plane will probaly give you a good idea if you have anything squirrely to be cautious of with the router. Should be fine.

      The roller bearing is much easier to control with a hand held router. Just be sure your bit and roller is clean (pitch build-up) and the bit is sharp.

   sarge..jt

2. 
   MHargrove | Apr 15, 2003 11:04pm | #8

   I'm making a small triangular-shaped end-table for my wife, and I just added an ogee "bevel" all around  by inverting the table top and running each edge through my router table.  I used featherboards on both the infeed and outfeed fence to help hold it down, and I clamped scrap to the trailing edges to minimize tear out.  Worked out perfectly.

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 16, 2003 12:23am | #11

   Mark

      You have the ideal set-up and technique. I would use the same method and do. BG, seems to have a small table that is a concern for him. I also use a spring-board on the table that keeps stock pressure against the fence. As long as you apply constant pressure, it is just another aid and safety feature that would keep the stock from coming toward the operator in the event of a kick.

   Have a good day...

   sarge..jt