Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Jun 21, 2006 06:38pm | #1

   Are you planning to create a simple flat bevel at 45 degrees or are you looking to create a more complex curved profile?  Also how wide do you want the exposed edge of the top, the part that isn't beveled off, to be?

   John W.

   
   

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   Edited 6/21/2006 12:09 pm ET by JohnWW

2. 
   user-134443 | Jun 22, 2006 10:03pm | #2

   Hi John, thanks for the reply.     The angle of the bevel is yet to be decided by the client. I would like to make it 15 degrees to match the base. But it is possible that it may be steeper. The flat edge before the undercut bevel will be 1" or so.

   I have thought of swinging the router ,on the underside of the top, on an arm with a canted plate on the end.But then...the bit must be to long,it must plunge.....

   Any ideas would be great.

   Cheers, Angus D.

    

1. 
   citrouille | Jun 22, 2006 11:07pm | #4

   I am about do do more or less the same thing, the client is not sure yet.
   For a test I made a jig that would hold the router horizontally and I used a vertical raised panel bit. To avoid mistakes I drilled and tapped the tip of the router in a lathe and installed a bearing. It worked very well.C.P.S.
   I made a very large off set base for the router to counterbalance the weight of the router.

2. 
   jazzdogg | Jun 23, 2006 06:17am | #5

   I may not be completely clear on what you intend to accomplish, but it sounds as though a circle-routing jig attached to the baseplate of your router would work without a canted base plate if you used a 15-degree chamfering bit in your router.

   Can you post a sketch?

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

3. 
   QCInspector | Jun 23, 2006 01:03pm | #6

   Table upside down.
   Trammel / compass jig to hold and swing the router that can be lengthened to increase the diameter. With a pad sitting in from the outside edge about 6" to maintain the height as it is swung around. The router more or less in the vertical, but tilted to the angle you want.
   Flat bottom bit, preferably large diameter. A dish carving bit if you can get it.
   First cut on the inside.
   Second cut out from the first and at the same depth. Then lower the bit until it's cutting in the same plane as the the first, (making it wider).
   Third cut and subsequent moving out and down until the bevel is finished.
   Hand plane or sand of any mismatches on the bevel.This method has the advantage of being able to make a bevel of any angle or width that you need. There is no width limit like you would have with the router mounted approximately horizontal.The other advantage is being able to change the bits to create a profile. IE: Cove, then Flat bottom (increasing the angle as you move out), finishing with a large radius Round over. After smoothing you have a large finger/thumbnail profile that would otherwise require a big shaper to make.If you want to make a very large cove on the edge. Set up a pivot on an extension behind your table saw (blade cuts with, not against the grain for a cleaner cut). Spin the table and raise the blade incrementally in the same fashion as you would coving crown molding.In the long run it might be easier to mark the inside and outside edges of the bevel and hand plane around the edge of the table top.I've chucked you 3 more options to those so far, and I'm sure there will be others. Please post some pictures of whatever method you use and some of the finished table. It's our fee. ;-)

1. 
   user-134443 | Jun 26, 2006 06:14pm | #7

   Thank you QC. Now I,m ready to go.I'll post some pics when its all done. Thanks for the detailed reply.

   Cheers, Angus.

3. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 22, 2006 10:39pm | #3

   84" round mahogany top which is 2 3/4" thick.

   Geeee I'm just funnin' ya but if you could afford that hunk of wood I hire a pro to finish it!

4. 
   sapwood | Jun 27, 2006 12:11am | #8

   Do it by hand. A plane would be my choice of cutting tool.

1. 
   user-134443 | Jun 27, 2006 06:13pm | #9

   Thanks sapwood, unfortunatly,as with all our projects,time is an issue. I think I can machine this top ( 2 3/4" x 84" ) with the router a little quicker.    

   Cheers A.