Replies

1. 
   Mic1 | Jun 09, 2004 09:10pm | #1

   Tom, what are you cutting? Sometimes I carpet tape a piece of wood to the side of the fence to keep the blade off the fence. If the cut requires you to feed the piece through the table saw butt end first, for a reverse mitre, I use a tall fence covering device shaped like a "h" and clamp it at the front or rear to the fence.  Also, I placed a dato in the tall side of the "h" face to be able to tack my piece to a guide strip to keep it from dipping.- Mic

   
   

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   Edited 6/9/2004 2:13 pm ET by Mic Macarthy

2. 
   DougF | Jun 09, 2004 09:15pm | #2

   Tom;

   I'm curious as to the reason to avoid drilling two small through-and-through holes in the fence.   I've did this to my Beis almost 20 years ago and it has provided me with the ability to use a variety of attachments and clamps that would not be otherwise possible.  The holes have in no way weakened or detracted from the fence's utility.

   Doug

3. 
   RickL | Jun 09, 2004 09:18pm | #3

   http://biesemeyer.com/products/accessories.htm

   Here is their version!

   Whatever works and is within the budget. You can always make a better one. I like having a few inches thicker than say 3/4" as I use it for pattern trimming such as edge banding. That's when you set the sacraficial fence to the left side of the blade and raise the fence  about 1/8" off the table to clear the edging. I suppose a pic is the only way to make it clear.

   Why is there such a big thing on not drilling holes???  Sometimes holes are an improvement, especially if it makes for more versatility.  Pro's would drill the holes!

   
   

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   Edited 6/9/2004 2:55 pm ET by rick3ddd

1. 
   ownersrep | Jun 09, 2004 11:36pm | #5

   The Biesemeyer auxillary fence is $124 + shipping +tax -- $150.  Guess I'll keep clamping the sacrificial board to the existing fence.

   JIm

4. 
   Dustmight | Jun 09, 2004 10:39pm | #4

   I built a master jig the slips over the top of my Biese and is held in place with a couple of rare earth magnets mounted in proprietary magnet holding cups (<$5 for cups and magnets from Hartvill Tool and others). The magnets and cups mount into the jig and grab the steel body of the fence when put in place. Then I just clamp a sacrificial fence to that when I need one. A piece of t-track inlaid in the master jig would alleviate the clamping. (All in due time!)

   A couple of tips and a note: The magnets are amazingly strong and should hold firmly. But in case there's a bit of slipping, a strip of rubber somewhere between the jig and fence body should help. Once those magnets are placed into the cups, there's nearly zero chance of ever getting them out....it's probably a good idea place a strip of cloth (or equivalent) between the magnet and the cup to provide "tabs" to pull the magnet out with. (Stealth gloat ... This tip should be coming out soon in Wood Mag - sorry FWW...I sold out to the highest bidder!)

   Edited 6/9/2004 4:23 pm ET by scotty

   
   

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   Edited 6/9/2004 4:26 pm ET by scotty

5. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 10, 2004 12:12am | #6

   I was all set to tell you about the fancy-schmancy thing I built for my fence, but then I looked at the Biesmeyer link "rick3dd" included in his post.

   There were no prices given, but their version is very slick, and I think probably works a lot better than the thing I built.

   T-SQUARE AUXILIARY FENCE B78940

   It appears as though changing out the boards would be simple, a convenience for setting up a variety of supplemental fences.

6. 
   rod | Jun 10, 2004 05:57pm | #7

   I asked a similar question a few months ago.  One suggestion to hold the H style added fence was to drill and tap the metal top of the Biesmeyer fence and use brass  machine screws to attach the H fence to tlhe Bies.   In the end I used two T-nuts on the inside of the back face and two machine screws to secure the fence.  I was making a ripping fence that was half length.   It worked fine.  This emboldened me to make a sliding H style tenoning jig that slides on the Bies.

1. 
   Dan019 | Jun 10, 2004 08:09pm | #8

   Hi Tom,

   Mine is very simple and has worked great for over 5 yrs.

   It's essentially an inverted "U" made of 3 pcs. of 3/4" ply. I capped both ends so it couldn't slip off. The whole deal is just friction fitted on over the original fence.

   Any other sacrificial jigs, such as the 45* board cutting jig ala Steve Lattis, are screwed into this one.

   Dan

7. 
   PaulReuter | Jun 10, 2004 08:34pm | #9

   On my own Bies., a lower front corner had split where the plastic edging had been splined in, giving me a less then flat fence surface.   Though I'm sure I could have had it replaced, it was more practical for me to repair it myself.

   Examination of the rear, open end of the fence tube showed me where the screws that held the fence board were and with a few raps with the round end of a ball pein hammer I was able to break through the laminate to get to the heads of those screws and renove them.   Repairs made and the rough edges of the laminate around the holes smoothed, the fence was replaced and the holes have never given me a problem.   In fact, a few times, I've removed the original board to replace it with a temporary sacrificial fence board.

   Although to some it may be sacrilege (;-), there is realy nothing wrong with doing some custom modifications to our tools in the interests of ease, convenience , or safety.   After all, we buy our tools to use, not to keep in pristine condition so our heirs might get a few extra bucks some day.   This does not mean go willy-nilly but give the same consideration that you would give that long, wide plank of tropical hardwood before you cut into it.

   Work well, work safe,

   Paul

8. 
   SEBDESN | Jun 11, 2004 07:00pm | #10

   Drill and tap the fence, works fine,use a countersunk hole in whatever you are going to bolt to it...

9. 
   RickL | Jun 12, 2004 07:39pm | #11

   Here's one of many possibilites. I just threw it on the saw to take a pic. A couple of small clamps normally secure it to the main fence. It has a replacable face for the obvious reason. The extra width is for pattern cutting and edge band trimming. Basically I raise the sacraficial fence up to what height is appropriate and line the face up with the left side of the blade. The extra width allows for more clearance of the waste being trimmed. Pattern cutting is where you glue, screw or tape a master pattern on top of your scrap. The master rides against the raised fence. By moving the fence you can make the copy larger or smaller than the master. Pretty handy technique from the old patternmakers.