Replies

1. 
   JAM | Dec 22, 2002 02:25am | #1

    I Love My Biesemeyer Fence too much to drill it full of holes!

    I made a sacrifical fence out of Hard maple,using the h type method your talking about. On the back side of the  Maple h  fence,I added a quick release toggle clamp to each end.  I can put it on or take it off in about 30 seconds or less.

    I made the Blade side of the maple fence the full length of the bies, then made the back side about 6" shorter. 3 inches off each end so the Toggel clamps could clamp directly to the Bies, fence. It's really quite simple to make.  Good Luck

2. 
   BG | Dec 23, 2002 04:48am | #2

   You might want to take a look at Krumy's site....some good ideas..

   http://www2.fwi.com/~krumy/

1. 
   cheakamus | Dec 23, 2002 06:51am | #3

   Thanks BG, I've bookmarked it. Too many good ideas to absorb all at once!

2. 
   jase | Dec 25, 2002 03:23am | #6

   The link you provided shows a router table with a jack for a router lift. It took me a while to realize the router is a Craftsman with a rack & pinion height adjustment. Could you use, or has someone come up with, a jack or some other improvised system to lift a fixed base router with something other than a $100 lift? Maybe this belongs in a new thread.Jase--Is there a better way?

3. 
   mbosadchuk | Dec 24, 2002 05:01am | #4

   Here is what I did to attach a wood plate into the top channel of my Biesemeyer type fence.  I used the wood plate as a base for board buddies but I could use other wood plates similarly located as the start of other jigs.

   BUT it does start with drilling 3 holes, widely spaced, front to back.  in the top channel surface of the fence.

   Mill a piece of wood that will slide into the fence cavity with a very snug friction fit.

   Mark the wood at the locations of the holes previously drilled.

   Install 1/4 x 20 threaded metal inserts at the marked locations in  the wood member

   Slide the wood member back into the fence cavity, center the insert locations at the fence holes drilled; add a bit of expoxy glue between the wood and fence at the hole locations (without getting the glue into the inserts), rear of the fence wood/metal contact points. Let set.

   Screw some pieces of 1/4 x20 threaded material/cutoff bolts with sharpened ends sticking up.  Use those sharpened ends of the three bolts to locate the drill locations on the wood baseplate to be located on top of the fence.  Drill 1/4 x20 or very slightly larger holes at these locations in the wood plate. Countersink the top of these holes so that the 1/4 x 20 bolts going into the threaded inserts are below the top surface of this wood plate,  drop a thin metal washer into the countersink hole. (for board buddies I wanted this wood plate to be as thin as possible - a bit under 1/2").  Use this first wood plate as a template for other wood bases serving as the starting point for othe jigs.

   I also was surprised to not find already published, relatively "neat and tidy" solutions that did not distort the integrity of the fence.

4. 
   rslatm | Dec 24, 2002 04:22pm | #5

   There's t-track channel available from Rocklers and such that you can add to your fence. You should get Sandor's (not gonna try his last name) book on jigs from Taunton Press for other ideas.  Why does it matter if it goes higher than the sides? Just do it and improvise as you go along. I find the Bis to be more flexible than the Unifence in the jig department by far.