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I could use a little help here. Last week, I stumbled upon a used Binks HVLP gun for less than half the cost of a new one. Great deal, no directions! I will be shooting water-borne pigmented lacquer from a pressure pot. Questions: What pressure from the compressor should I start at? The pot only has one regulator-where should I set this to start? Do I need a regulator on the gun? If so, what setting? I just need a general idea to get started, I realize I’ll have to play around a little to tune things up. Also, if anyone has sprayed this stuff before, what tip/cap combination seemed to work best?
Thanks.
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Go to http://WWW.Binks.com. On the second page, you will see a button at the bottom for the "literature library. The first selection there will be a downloadable catalog which includes information about all the fluid tips and air caps.
The fluid tip / air cap combiation you want depends on how much air you have available to you, and how fast you want to spray. In general, a #92 or 94 fluid tip will do. 92 is 1.2 MM and gives a slightly slower feed rate, but allows easier atomization, and a 94 (1.4 mm?) is a pretty good all around production tip.
Air caps: The 92P air cap with the 92 fluid tip is about the largest you can go with a 120 volt, 15 amp compressor. Consumes about 6 or 7 CFM with 15 PSI AT THE GUN. For most finishes, you won't need maximum pressure, and can reduce overspray by reducing pressure until you are just getting the atomization you need.
A good all - around shop setup is a 92 or 94 fluid tip with a 94P air cap. Maximum air consumption is about 13 CFM with 30 PSI at the gun.
Check pressures actually delivered to the gun, because line losses to the gun can be substantial if you only have 1/4" air hose. 20 feet of air hose at 13 CFM can give you as mch as 30 to 40 PSI pressure drop. Larger hose eliminates a lot of this.
The regulator on the pot controls the pressure IN THE POT, and should be set at around 5 PSI for most applications. With the atomizing air blocked off and the trigger pulled all the way back you should get a gentle stream of fluid that arcs over after a couple of feet. The image here is of a one of those fountains with a boy peeing.....
Pressure to the gun can be set at the compressor, with a second regulator at the gun if you know how to do the plumbing, or with a little ball-valve regulator on the gun itself. I set the pressure at the compressor to get maximum allowable pressure to the gun, and then make fine adjustments at the gun itself.
Remember, always set the pressure with the air flowing. Small regulators can have a 5 to 20 PSI drop between static and flowing pressure.
That should get you started. Good luck. You'll find that the Mach I will not give you atomization quite as fine as with a good conventional gun, and fine tuning your setup is more critical than with a conventional gun. However, it is a fine quality industrial gun with a wide range of setup combinations, and with a little skill, does a fine job. The reduction in ovespray when properly set up is remarkable, especially when working on site.
By the way, cleanliness is CRITICAL, especially with the smaller air caps. Even the slightest contamination on the fluid tip or around the air cap holes can disrupt your pattern. I have often had mine spray poorly even when I couldn't actually see any contamination, but a quick, thorough cleaning of cap and tip always gets it spraying like new.
*Michael, thanks for your considerable effort. I've got a twin-cylinder Jacuzzi compressor with 3/8 hoses that used to keep two nailers going back in my framing days, so I should be able to run what you suggest.Thanks again- appreciate it.
*You're welcome. By the way, if you decide you don't like it, I'll be glad to take it off your hands....
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