I do not use maple much.. SO here goes..
I’m working on a project for a ‘special person’.. My sister-in-law…
The birdseye maple I have is just wonderful…
What final grit do ya folks sand up to that use maple alot.. I tried 120 and I got so little dust I thought my sander was broken!
Looks good to me ‘AS IS’ but I got old eyes!…
Replies
I'm sure you may get a lot of opinions on this, but here is what I prefer.
If I am working with some really attractive birdseye maple, I don't touch it with sandpaper. I achieve a beautiful final finish with a #4 hand plane, tuned and sharpened for the task. If the figure is especially difficult, I go to either a higher angle hand plane or the hand scrapper as a last choice.
I would agree w/ DM in terms of methods for finishing. However, if you insist on sanding, then you should at a minimum go up to 220 grit. With that said, you may want to go even higher depending upon the type of finish you plan on applying. If you use a danish oil, for example, that saturates the wood, I would probably go up to 400 considering that you will be still be touching the wood after all is said and done.
My 1 cent.
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
However, if you insist on sanding.. NO I do not.. It seems OK just as I got it,,,, Just asking..I'm using FORMBY'S Tung Oil Finish ( Sorry I like it ) Jatoba looks GREAT! with it..I like scrapers MUCH better than sand paper.. Like I said I do not use Maple very much.. Seems smooth as glass.. Even wet.. BUT I want to dye and finish somehow.. I DON'T want to ruin it NOW!
Will, I've been working on a maple project that I'll be posting pictures of soon. I sand some, but finish with a scraper, and this really helps bring out the figure. 220 grit, I believe, won't come close to releasing the potential beauty of your birds eye.
On difficult wood I sand with 120 then 220 to remove machine marks then use a card scraper. For me starting with the card scraper is too much work and I don't have any good planes.
Mike
Will,
Take a look at the video clip on here for the jointers. The very last shot he runs a piece of birdseye...just beautiful. Like others, I will plane, sand, whatever and end up with scraping...and maybe steel wool to remove all the dust.
WG -
I've no problems with sanding--just be sure to go up to 320 grit. To accent the figure more, try lightly wetting the surface after the last sanding, and then either scrape or lightly sand when dry. I'll use a scraper at times, but I find the finish on BE Maple is just dandy when sanding carefully.
BE maple will require about 7 applications of tung oil to really bring out the figure.
Note: sanding at very high grit for long periods of time will burnish the wood surface, making it difficult for oil to penetrate. Avoid this!
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