Could anyone here give me some advice on biscuit jointing for face frames? It seems to me that the smallest conventional biscuit (#0) is way too big for face frame work. Anyone used the Ryobi FF biscuits/ Are there any alternatives anyone can suggest?
Thanks in advance
Scrit
Replies
I have not used the Ryobi but have the Porter-Cable 557. It comes with a smaller blade to cut slots for their FF biscuits. You can still join face frames with 0 biscuits by cutting the slots so that the biscuit sticks out on one side, then cut off the protruding biscuits. However, this would only be applicable where the offending protrusion is not visible once you have it put together. I think most face frame assembly, especially with kitchen cabinets, is assembled with pocket screws because it's a lot faster.
Pocket screws work really well. I bought the cheap plastic Kreg (if I spelled that correctly) kit. I like it a lot.
Some tips. Buy an extra box of screws because the ones that come with it get used up quickly. Don't use drywall screws because they aren't self drilling, and the bugle heads will split the wood when seated. If you only put one screw in a piece it will spin, so you either need a little dab of glue or two screws. It helps to clamp the pieces together when you drive the screws so they don't shift on you. But the nice thing is you can work faster than biscuits and gluing because you don't have to wait for glue to set before you shift your clamps.
You should ALWAYS use glue on ALL wood joints. The screw, though they add strength, mainly hold your joints together while the glue dries.
Have any of you use the larger bench top unit by Kreg?, Is totally air driven, both hold down clamp & drill motor. Cost about $750.00. Also Porter Cable has one but with electric driven motors for about $50.00 less.
I need to buy one of them next week and am torn as to which one to get. The kreg needs a pretty large compressor to run it & that doesn't make it to portable, but does seem a bit faster than the porter cable.
Get the porter cable, is all electric less parts to break. The Kreg will require an air source.
I have the PC in my HS shop. We love it.
One problem. If you want to place a pocket screw unconventionally- like in really thick (over one inch) or at angled the pc cannot handle the anthing other than simple edge and corner joiunts. Get the PC and a Kreg Rocket and you can do anything with these guys
I agree I have a DW biscuit jointer and the Kreg 2000 Propak and use the heck out of both of them they both have their unique limitations but each one compliments the other.
Buy the Kreg Propack 2000 pocket hole jig kit. Comes with the bench mounted jig plus two other portable jigs as well. Well worth the money (about $130)
Soooooo much faster and cleaner than biscuits. Glue the joints to back up the screws and you are good to go.
There have been several discussions on the Breaktime board on the Kreg system. All feedback has been great.
Another point about using the PH system for f/f's is you dont have any clamp up time. Just screw and assemble. Also they will be as square as your stock is.
Darkworksite4:
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Thank you for all your suggestions. Having now built a few prototype face frames I have decided to opt for the face frame approach (with a bit of glue for good measure) as being the quickest and strongest technique for my needs.
Scrit
I have the Sears version of the Ryobi FF joiner. It's AOK -- and it ain't none too shabby either. It does the job it's supposed to do, and does it without any unnecessary fussin' about. (I also have the Freud fixed-fence plate joiner for the larger needs.)
I've got both the PC and the Dewalt biscuit joiners, and I much prefer the PC. In fact, I'm going to sell the Dewalt.
As for advice--it completely depends on how thick and wide the FF is. On some FFs, I've used 20s, and on others I've used the very small PC biscuits. If you're finding 0s too big, the super-small biscuits should work well, but a biscuit joiner is a pretty big tool. Will you have the working room to support the joiner fence?
Personally, I use M&T joint, as I have a mortiser.I sometimes use a bisquit joint, but they sure are wiggly until the glue sets. It helps to have glue jig or some some square stock to clamp on the corners to keep the face frame square while the glue sets.I've heard good things about the Krieg, but the joints are visible on doors, but probably not cabinet frames.Regards, Scooter"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
I've got a mortiser also but use the pockethole jig for boxes and face frames. Unless you climb into the cabinets they aren't visible. Doors I use frame and panel router bit sets. Biscuits I don't use.
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