Biscuits and glue – quick question
I would appreciate advice on how much glue to use when biscuiting an edge-to-edge joint. Recent FW articles have made me wary of using too much glue in general, but sounds like the biscuit needs a fair amount to work (so it will absorb liquid and expand to fill the joint). Thus — should I put glue on the biscuit itself or just in the slot, and is a smidgen enough or is this an unusual better-too-much-than-too-little type situation? Thanks in advance.
Peter Henderson
Replies
You can delete this one, since you posted it in Skills & Techniques.
I've not done biscuits, so no help I'm afraid. I've seen others do it, and the only thing I can pass on is many glue the slots with a special applicator, then coat the biscuits at the last second, because it's compressed and starts to swell pretty quickly as it absorbs moisture from the glue.
Thanks -- I'll try a bit of glue in each place. Heading off to the workshop now.
Put the glue in the slots if you can. Use enough so that when you place the biscuit in it spreads to the top but not more than that. You can do it with the regular squeeze bottles that glue comes in; the fancy applicators are not really necessary.
DR
It is my understanding that biscuits in edge to edge are for alignment purposes only - it is hard to improve on a properly done edge joint. Therefore the use of glue is optional as the only loss is a minor 5/32" x size of biscuit. I have reverted to 'just glue' on almost all of my edge to edge joinery.
Biscuits are for alignment and strength. Tests have been done and found that the joint is considerably stronger than just a glue joint, or dowels. The wood will break before the biscuit fails, as it will in a good glue joint. M&T joints are stronger, but take more time and are more difficult. A spcial applicator isn't really necessary, but it does look better on TV. I use the little acid brushes (with the metal tubular handle) for gluing these and it works well. For shallow joints and better control of the glue, I'll cut the bristles shorter. Until recently, I cut the slots for my biscuit joints with my router and a slot cutter. Now, I have an actual buscuit joiner and will be able to do face to edge joints on wider stock.
Not gluing a biscuited joint doesn't make any sense. Would you cut mortices (for a floating tenon) and not put the tenon in? I doubt it. An unglued floating tenon would be stronger than an unglued biscuit joint because the tenon would resist rotation due to it's deeper penetration into both parts but I owuld still want the advantage of the glue in my joints. The glue makes a big difference in a joint like this and removing material just for the sake of alignment will weaken it. OTOH, the application of the joint needs to be considered before deciding on which kind of joint is needed. For a face frame, not much strength is needed. For making a chair or large table, strength is an obvious issue.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I use the acid brushs also, I get them at Harbor Freight for about $1.99 for 20-24 of them I think. I bought 3-4 packs last time I was there and don't remember the exact price but do remember they were real cheap. for spreading glue, I also use those "credit cards" that they send you in the junk mail - a bit flexible and can make a nice even film of glue.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Hey, the credit card idea is clever. Thanks for that.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
From one who has done tons and tons of them, just put a quick squeeze in the center of your biscuit slot. No need to glue biscuit and slot or a long glue run in your slot. Try this out, then get pliers and pull the biscuit out. You'll see it has the glue spread well as it needs.
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