Replies

1. 
   gmoney | Jan 20, 2007 11:27pm | #1

   keyless chuck perhaps?  if it's that, then there are some bits out there that have hex quick change bases and those don't slip.  there's always the premier choice of buying a better drill too!

1. 
   z3peru | Jan 21, 2007 06:08am | #2

   Someone suggested that the keyless feature was the problem.  But all the 14.4 v drills in a Fine Woodworking review were keyless.  Other brands do keyless better I presume?

1. 
   gmoney | Jan 21, 2007 08:45am | #3

   i've used a couple of dewalts that don't slip.

2. 
   gmoney | Jan 21, 2007 08:47am | #4

   i know you can also replace the keyless chuck with another, although i'm less sure if replacements fit all drills.

3. 
   forestgirl | Jan 21, 2007 07:14pm | #5

   "Other brands do keyless better I presume?"  Absolutely!  The quality of the chuck can vary from brand to brand.  It may not be so much whether the chuck will tighten enough, as wehther it's humanly possible to tighten it enough, or just how easy it is to do so.  The Ryobi 14.4 is a prime example.  More difficult to tighten that the better drills in its class.

   I suppose there's always the possibility that your individual drill has an internal part that wasn't made quite right and is affecting the chuck's grip.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   gmoney | Jan 21, 2007 09:44pm | #7

   was wondering if you found an adequate solution for using the mini drill bits?  i saw a couple of pin vises at the woodworking show last weekend and was reminded of that.

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 21, 2007 11:32pm | #8

   I took apart the small hand drill I had, cleaned it up and lubed it, and it's working much better now.  Put off my Lee Valley order for a little while, so I haven't decided about the pin vise/jeweller's thing yet.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   z3peru | Jan 22, 2007 05:30am | #9

   Thanks, everybody, for the comments.  This drill has been used very (VERY) lightly, but is 3-4 years old.  The Lowe's "expert" says a battery pack is not available (I wanted an extra.) 

   Taking it apart is definitely beyond me, but thanks for the tutorial.

   A new drill will be required when the current battery gives out.  I'll probably just make do until then, unless I just get totally disgusted.

3. 
   dougmeyer | Jan 22, 2007 05:39am | #10

   I have two dewalts 14.4s one was the first generation of these drills and was a pleasuer to use. The secound is much newer does not have the nice rubber on the handle and cost about the same but is smaller and has noticably less power. Also it has a chuck that on a pretty regular basis lets the drill bit just fall right out of it.  So just because you know someone that has a good one the company may change it on you so be carefull when you buy a new one.

   Doug Meyer

4. 
   gmoney | Jan 22, 2007 07:37am | #11

   hmm, i had the 14.4 and now i have the 18.  i like them both although i couldn't go backwards now. it's the 18 all the way with the additional power and longer lasting battery between charges.

2. 
   [email protected] | Jan 21, 2007 07:53pm | #6

   First, are there any burrs or irregularities on the drill bits that slip?  If so sand them off and try again. 

   Most chucks can be easily replaced, good ones run around $25.  If you want to replace the chuck, there is usually a size and thread information on it.  i.e. 3/3X3/8-24, is a 3/8 capacity chuck with a 3/8-24 thread.  There is a lock screw inside, that you can see if you open the chuck all the way.  If your are lucky it will be a hex socket, if not Phillips, and if you have really upset the powers, it will be straight slot.  It has a left hand thread.  Take it out.  Chuck the largest allen key you have in the chuck,  to give you the leverage to turn it off.  It is a right hand thread, and is usually really tight and hard to get turning.  If your drill is reversible, you can run it at about half speed in reverse, and then skip the hex key off something solid, (concrete driveway), to break it loose.  You are, however, spending half the cost of a new drill to fix one, that if you have had it long, or used it much, is on it's last legs.  The cost of a new chuck and a replacement battery is more than a new drill if you shop the sales.

   The easier approach is to buy the Makita chuck on a 1/4-hex that they make to chuck drill bits in their impact driver.  So long as you get your chuck reasonably tight on the hex, it won't spin.  It is around $25, if you can't find one locally amazon has them.