I’m about to spend $130.00 for a 10 in. forrest chop blade
for my delta radial for which I paid $150. Are there less costly blades
that will compare in quality?
Thanks
Ken
I’m about to spend $130.00 for a 10 in. forrest chop blade
for my delta radial for which I paid $150. Are there less costly blades
that will compare in quality?
Thanks
Ken
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialGet instant access to over 100 digital plans available only to UNLIMITED members. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building!
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more.
Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
Look into a Freud.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
From everything I've read and from the many posts here at "knots" I believe that Forrest makes some very good saw blades. However, for less than half the price you could get a Delta blade that would work just fine. I've had one on my 12" RAS for many years without any complaints. Whatever brand you decide on, just make sure you get a blade designed for everyday RAS use. Before I got the Delta blade I purchased a Freud blade with too many teeth thinking it would produce a very smooth cut. It did so but boged down badly in routine use. It wasn't the fault of the the blade.....just a poor choice on my part. I still use Freud the blade occasionally in the table saw for miters on small boxes.
Chip
Chip:
I read this just in time to change my order
at Woodworker's Supply from an 80 tooth
blade to a 60 tooth. The blade isn't designated
strictly for radial arm but hopefully will do well.
Thanks, Ken
Ken,
If you are interested in a Freud blade we have many that will work well. My top picks would be the LU91R010, TK606 or D1060S.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Charles: I have already ordered a LU82. Was this
a good choice? I originally ordered theLU85 but changed the
order after a post suggested the 80 tooth had difficulty
in some material. Your reply will be appreciated
Thanks Ken
Ken,
As JohnW mentioned, the drawback to using a standard blade on a RAS is that the hook (or rake) angle of the teeth is sometimes more aggressive (in the case of the LU82 it is 10° but some are 20° and more) and lends to the effect of the saw self-feeding while a RAS blade has a lower hook angle (the LU91 series has -5° hook, TK606 and D1060S have 7°) to lessen this effect. In the case of a 10 RAS (assuming all proper guards in place and hands out of the blade path) the result of the saw trying to self-feed is typically to stall the blade and overload the motor although it can be intimidating to think the blade is going to jump over the material and come after you. There are many RAS owners that regurlarly use positive hook angle blades on their saws with no ill effect and a difference of 3° in hook angle between the TK606 and the LU82 should make very little difference. The LU82 is probably the best value you can find in an industrial saw blade and I think you will be happy with the results.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Charles:
I take it from your remarks my decision was OK but
one of the other blades you referred to would have been a better
choice. Your imput is appreciated. Since I recently cut two fingers
on my table saw, safety is more an issue than ever.
Ken
Dovetail,
DON"T USE A BLADE MEANT FOR A TABLE SAW ON A RADIAL ARM SAW.
For your own safety, get a blade meant for radial arm saws. The tooth geometry of a blade meant for radial arm saws is distinctly different from a table saw blade. This is to minimize the very real chance that the saw blade will explosively grab the stock and smash it into the underside of the saw or worse. Radial arm saws are dangerous enough under the best of circumstances, you should do everything possible to reduce the risks.
John W.
Edited 11/20/2003 10:40:49 PM ET by JohnW
Good decision! Ive found that the more teeth the slower the cut and not necessarily the better the cut either. One of the more important aspects of the blade is determining the pitch and tooth configuration you will need for the type of cutting you will most be doing.
I use a laminate cutter for my panel saw and a thin kerf for my table saw. Both have a shalow pitch to give nice shearing action without slapping the surface at the point of entry. Ive had good success with both.
The new Delta blades (this year) leave a lot to be desired.
1st blade out of round. The replacement wasn't flat. Didn't go for a third.
Freud 50 to 75$...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
I've been very happy with my Freud blade "Best blade for Miter Saw". Since I never rip on my RAS, it cuts like a miter saw. Very smooth cut. Only about $50 or so.
FS Tools blades are great.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled