Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Aug 09, 2007 02:54pm | #1

   Forrest has a nice RAS blade -- you don't say what your arbor size is, but I'm sure Forrest can deal with whatever it is. Freud also makes nice ones.

   I have a Freud on my RAS now. Used to have a Forrest. I mistakenly left a drywall screw on the table right in the kerf line, didn't notice it, and cut some ply that covered it up. My Forrest blade hit the screw and busted all but four of the teeth. Now, I use it to keep stored sandpaper flat and to remind me never to do THAT again. Expensive lesson.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Aug 09, 2007 03:18pm | #2

   Mike,

   OUCH!  Good thing dem teeth didn't come flying back at you.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Aug 09, 2007 04:23pm | #4

   "OUCH!  Good thing dem teeth didn't come flying back at you."

   Um, what makes you think they didn't? ;-)

   Lots of small, stingy shrapnel. Needless to say, that made me way more careful about making sure the top is clean before cutting.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

2. 
   highfigh | Aug 09, 2007 03:26pm | #3

   What diameter would the blade be?

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
3. 
   tsgraz | Aug 09, 2007 04:30pm | #5

   Congrats on the inherited RAS.  The fifties vintage DeWalts are incredible machines with a proper table, good alignment, and the correct blade.  The first thing you should do, is get a copy of Wally Kunkel's book "How to Master the Radial Saw."  Here is a link to the website:  http://www.mrsawdust.com/  The book will give you the information you need for safe, accurate work.

   About blades, you will get the best performance from an 8" think kerf blade, which will give  you a 2" depth of cut.  Wally worked with Jim Forrest to develop a blade specifically for this saw, the Forrest Woodworker I with a modified triple chip profile (TCP), and a 5 degree hook angle.  To get this blade, you must call Forrest directly, and speak only to Charles Bazikian.  A less expensive alternative, that works well on these saws, is a Freud LU83R008.  It's an alternate bevel / raker tooth, with a 10 degree hook.  Both blades are outstanding, especially when used with the 4" Forrest blade stabilizer.  Makes for very quiet cutting.

   Also, you should check out the DeWalt RAS forum, start with the FAQ's:  http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

    Regards,

   Tim

4. 
   hammer1 | Aug 09, 2007 06:25pm | #6

   Radial arm saws have a tendency to self feed, climbing into the cut. A blade with a negative hook angle greatly reduces this problem on crosscuts. I'd rather not rip on an RAS but if I did, I'd change to a rip blade. Many manufacturers make negative hook blades but it will depend on the size you need. CMT, Freud, Amana and others make them up to 14". Chances that you will find one on a store shelf are slim. You need to order them.

   http://www.justsawblades.com/systimatic/radial_arm.htm

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   tsgraz | Aug 10, 2007 03:35pm | #8

   The Forrest WWI TCP has 60 teeth on the 8" blade, which fulfills the "lotsa teeth" requirement for a RAS.  The 5 degree positive hook is not so aggressive that it self feeds crosscutting when the pull force is properly adjusted (4 to 5 lbs), but is enough for it to rip adequately.  The TCP teeth also perform much better than ATB when doing any bevel cutting.  These features make it an excellent all purpose blade for the RAS.

   Using a seperate blade for crosscut and rip does not make sense when this blade does both well, IMHO.  You will spend more money on blades, and more time changing them.  Besides, all of the dedicated rip blades I've seen have way too few teeth, and way too aggressive hook angles for safe ripping on a RAS.

   Regards,

   Tim

   (who uses a restored DeWalt MBF, and GWI, and doesn't own a table saw)

1. 
   aranman | Aug 14, 2007 01:22pm | #16

   Many thanks for all the information and cautions. I appreciate everyone taking time to add to this discussion and feel more comfortable now in making a blade selection. The advice and history of RAS use is certainly welcomed too. Sorry not to have answered each of you individually but as I am on a holiday I'm trying to keep computer use to a minimum. By the way the United States is one beautiful and friendly country!

5. 
   mudman | Aug 09, 2007 08:58pm | #7

   I agree with hammer. Negative hook, Hi ATB, lots of teeth. The negative (or 0) hook angle limits the self feeding and gives the best crosscut possible, Hi ATB minimises tearout especially on plywood cross cuts, lots of teeth also give less tearout and cleaner cut.

   If your saw has the power (I have a 16" '55 Dewalt GE with a 3 horse motor) cutting 2.5 inch thick hard wood is no problem. Ive not used the smaller MB hobby models. I think that they had 3/4 to 1 1/2 horse motors so fewer teeth might be good.

   There is a very active Dewalt RAS forum on Yahoo forums. These guys know everything!!

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

6. 
   philip | Aug 11, 2007 12:58am | #9

   Aran, which model is it?
   Others have given useful advice, but I ask because in those days tct blades were not predominantly used with smaller and diy saws, and their horsepower was suited to plain blades i.e fewer horses required.
   If you fit a tct blade with many teeth (better) then extra horses may be needed. Getting a thin kerf one would be helpful.
   If it is one of those light weight saws be extra careful on safety aspects.

   Philip Marcou
7. 
   colebearanimals | Aug 12, 2007 12:21am | #10

   Hi aranman,

          Whatever you do, don't rip with your RAS. Not safe. Reserve it for cutoff.

                                                      Paul

1. 
   DavidCockey | Aug 12, 2007 05:30pm | #11

   I'm curious why it's considered not safe to rip with a RAS. I used to rip with a Dewalt and never had any problems. I did turn the cast aluminum blade cover so that it was very close to the wood ahead of the blade.  Also used a pusher sled to feed the board. The major potential problem I can see is lack of a splitter. But if "kickback" occurs the wood may not go far with the blade cover, motor and arm above it.

1. 
   tinkerer2 | Aug 13, 2007 06:33am | #12

   "But if kickback occurs, the would not go far if the blade cover, motor and arm above it."

   It may not go far, but it can sure can go fast and hard.  I have had a Craftsman RAS for over forty years, almost worn out, and since I got the PM 66 table saw, I would never use the RAS for ripping.  In fact, I would never use the RAS for ripping whether I had the PM 66 or not.  I have a thumb that tells me not to whenever I would think of it.

   Edited 8/12/2007 11:35 pm ET by tinkerer2

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Aug 13, 2007 03:22pm | #13

   I'm with you. It's not "unsafe" to rip on a RAS -- just a slight PITA. My first stationary tool was a RAS (which I still have) and I've ripped a lot of wood on it with no horror stories. I did have 8' benches serving as table extensions on either side though. You can rip smaller pieces more safely on a TS than you can with a RAS -- IMHO, ripping small pieces on the RAS can be dangerous since you can't control them as easily as you can on a TS.

   One ripping task the RAS excells at is truing up the edges of rough sawn wood. Just clamp a straight edge under the board and use it as a guide against the front of the table & rip away. Perfectly straight edge in no time, no hassle. Nowhere near as easy on a TS. The only thing that comes close is a Festool system or the EZ (or similar) guide. Both cost appreciably more than a straight 1X4.

   Once I got a TS though, I rip on the TS and crosscut on the RAS or miter saw. (I also no longer have the space for support tables on both sides of the RAS.) While both tools are able to perform both tasks, each is better than the other at one.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   mudman | Aug 13, 2007 07:52pm | #14

   If you are using a massive old 300 pounder from the 50's ripping can be somewhat safe on the RAS. The newer machines and the smaller old machines (the little 8" and 7" dewalts) flex and deflect too much. As you feed the stock the arm deflects back (away from the cut) causing the toe adjustment to vary. When the blade hits a hard spot the arm jumps up and back, binding the blade and causing real bad kick back. The anti kickback paws help.

   I have a massive old dewalt that is the most used machine in the shop, and I would never rip on it. Mostly because I have a table saw about 15 feet away. If you have a table saw, it would be silly to use a RAS for ripping. If you have a RAS and no table saw..... I think that would be odd, but then I suppose you would have no chouce.

   There is a reason that so many claim ripping on the RAS is unsafe. It is not just the "RAS is unsafe" crowd. People who have used RAS's for years say they are best for crasscutting as well.

    Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Aug 14, 2007 03:40pm | #17

   My RAS is an old 10" Craftsman from the early '70s. Surely not as massive as the big old DeWalts that the lumberyards all used for crosscutting, but it's pretty sturdy. Since I started out as primarily a hand-toolie, this was my first (and only) shop saw. I can't for the life of me recall my logic for purchasing the RAS over a TS (tho' I do remember debating the choice with a friend), but I did. It was my only shop saw for over 20 years. I bought a TS about 7 years ago only when I was faced with building a kitchen full of cabinets on a short time schedule and I didn't want to wrestle with ply on the RAS. You know -- any excuse for a new tool is a good excuse! ;-)

   I've never used a newer/smaller saw, so I can't comment on their safety for ripping. However, I completely agree that, given the choice of the two saws, the RAS is for crosscutting, the TS is for ripping. A RAS is not inherently unsafe, tho' just like any tool, particular ones may be so poorly designed as to be unsafe even for their intended use. I have used small TSs that gave me the willies just turning them on! If my RAS ever dies, I'll probably get another just because it's so good for crosscutting and dadoes. And, since they are almost universally despised, they're cheap! ;-)

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

    

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Aug 14, 2007 04:06pm | #18

   Hi Mike,

   Reading your post is like deja vue! 

   I too bought a 70's vintage Craftsman RAS 10" as my first stationary tool; back in '73.  Still use it for crosscutting & dados as well to this day.  And, it's accurate enough as long as I leave it @ 90° and use a jig for 45° cuts to angle the workpiece.  When it's a long piece I use roller tables to support the long stock.  Works for me.

   The TS is a Delta 10" contractors that I've modified with homemade tables & biesemeyer fence.  A riving knife is in the making for it, DC is next.

   Regards,

    

    Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

3. 
   mudman | Aug 14, 2007 05:08pm | #19

   I couldn't agree more. I bought mine for $300! The guy was...... I hate to say it, but he was an idiot. He had three RAS and tons of other wwing machinery in his garage. He was trying to make bar stools out of construction lumber to sell to restaraunts and game room suppliers. He could have made these things with a saws-all and a drill with equally impressive results. But his real issue was that over a 3 or 4 year period he went to the hospital three times; twice for amputations and once for severe kick back.

   He had a 12" Delta turret RAS and a contractors grade Delta 12" as well. When refering to the 14" Dewalt he kept saying that it "was a beast" and that you had to watch it because it was so powerfull. I thought to my self...."whatever".

   After I got it to my shop I noticed that the blade was on backwards. I figured he must have put it on without noticing. But I was wrong. Even though the blade was on the "wrong way" it was actually on the correct way for this saw. Can anyone guess why?

   Here is a big hint, it has a three phase motor running on a phase converter.Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

8. 
   tinkerer2 | Aug 14, 2007 05:32am | #15

   I can tell you what blade not to get.  You probably wouldn't consider it anyway but in the early 60's I got a Sears 10 inch RAS.  I had heard a hollow ground (planer) blade would really leave a smooth cut so I got one for the RAS.  When ripping, it would veer way off course, getting hot and leave a terrible edge.  I put it away and later learned that the blade was designed for table saws with the blade raised as high as it would go.  Since I have the TS, I still haven't tried that planer blade.