Replies

1. 
   John_D | Dec 08, 2005 09:54pm | #1

   I've started to admit it's hard to remember every detail of every item around my shop.  Which filter does the shop vac take?  What size hex key for the TS motor cover, for the Bies fence adjust, for the jointer gibs?  Which screwdriver do I grab if I'm centering the baseplate for a templet guide on my router?  I've taken to putting labels on some things, and making two trips for others.

   I'm lucky I can remember I have a 10" TS with a 5/8" arbor, but my mental health was challenged when I shopped for a dado (a 10" dado has a 1" arbor and is intended for a 12" saw).  Ugh.

   More to the point, though... assuming you have at least one good blade, why don't you just uncoil it, put it on your shop floor, and run string around it?  Measuring the string will tell you the blade's current length.  Then put a label inside the BS cover with the required length so you won't have to remember next time.

1. 
   EarlJ | Dec 08, 2005 09:58pm | #2

   Thanks for the tip Father John,

   I told you it was a dumb question. It's like I've always had a mental block about this blade thing. Kinda like compund mitre angles.

   Regards,  Earl 

2. 
   forestgirl | Dec 12, 2005 09:09pm | #3

   "a 10" dado has a 1" arbor and is intended for a 12" saw"  ROFL!! Good one, FJ!  I've got a stock of those Sharpie pens, black and metallic silver, for remembering such stuff, labels be d*mned.  When the time comes to sell, I'll make sure the buyer is another senior who will appreciate the info, LOL.  The other thing I label the minute they come out of the box are transformer plugs, for when they get separated from their tools.  And (I'm on a roll here) all the plugs that go into the multi-plug Stanley box so there's no need to follow the cord to find the tool/plug.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   John_D | Dec 12, 2005 10:18pm | #4

   I have to admit I'm hooked on these labels.  I use white tape, it makes black letters, visible in any light and at any angle.  Plus they peel off if I've screwed it up (on some surfaces anyway).  It also works great for wall warts -- the label makes a "flag" that hangs off the wire.

   I'm old enough that I don't worry about resale.  Anything durable enough to resell, I figure I'll just use until I fall over.

2. 
   BRB | Dec 15, 2005 01:13am | #5

   The blade length is 124".I own one.I once bought a 130" blade because of conflicting information and had to have 6" cut out.

   
   

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   Edited 12/14/2005 5:14 pm ET by BRB

1. 
   EarlJ | Dec 15, 2005 06:28pm | #6

   BRB

   Hey, thanks for the info. It confirmed what I thought.  I did some fiurther digging and even got a response from Meber in Italy. They too specified a 130" blade. Funny, at the same time I also sent the query to Laguna who to date have not responded. (surprise surprise- oh wait a minute, I didn't want to buy anything from them)

   At any rate, looks like the photocopied, translated manual that came with the machine was right after all. A tip though for anyone in the same quandry. A really nice guy at Highland Hardware in Atlanta found a calculation I would like to share.

   dia of wheel x3.14 + 2 x distance between wheel axle centers.

   On my machine, I measured 15.75" diameter of wheel. Multiply it by pi and I got 49.455. I then measured the axle to axle distance within 1/2". (Not too easy that one.) This was 37.5" This was with the tensioning wheel set mid way in tension range. I multipled 37.5 x 2 and got 75". I added this to 49.5 and got 124.5". Right on the money give or take.

   Hope this is useful. Now I can order my Woodslicer blades.

   Take care all and have a great Christmas and New Year. (Please no follow up on my use of Christmas, it's what I call the season and I just can't get out of the habit, sorry)

    

   Earl

1. 
   John_D | Dec 15, 2005 10:33pm | #7

   So what happened when you measured the existing blade itself?My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

1. 
   EarlJ | Dec 16, 2005 01:27am | #8

   Sorry John,

   I did measure using the string around the circumfrance method and got 128" . I did realize though that I used a 3/8" clothes line which may have had an effect. on the 3 1/2" difference between that calculated. It remains to be seen (I can't remember), what was supplied to me from Laguna in the first place. This particular saw has quite a range of tension with at least 2 3/4" inches difference quoted between max and min blade lengths. So, I would hazard a guess and figure that with a piece of string, I most likely have gotten to a ball park figure that would give me the confidence to purchase.

   Thanks for the tips guys, as usual there is always a good response from this forum and it is much appreciated.

   Regards,  EarlJ

1. 
   giametti | Dec 17, 2005 04:43pm | #9

   You must have a different saw from the one marketed by Laguna. That one was made by Meber and sold as the LT16 or LT16-SEC, which is what I have. It has since been superceded by a machine from Bulgaria. My saw uses a 130" blade. Does your saw have a full 12" resaw capacity?Jim Eddy

   [URL=http://www.jameseddywoodworks.com]James Eddy Woodworks[/URL]

2. 
   EarlJ | Dec 17, 2005 09:52pm | #10

   Jim,

   This was sold to me as an LT 16HD by the Laguna "telemarketer" back in 97 or so. I did have an earlier LT 16 purchased in 95 and upgraded to this machine. I was offered a good deal on my old saw from Laguna. That was a green Laguna liveried unit with Euro guides. The upgrade for the "HD" which arrived in Meber dress was a 2.5hp motor and Carter upper guides which I have to assume were retrofitted by Laguna. This did indeed allow for a 12" resaw capacity. whereas I believe the prior model with Euro guides gave me 9". When the tool arrived I must admit I was kind of surprised that the saw had not been repainted. However at least this way I knew it was made by a top notch company.

   As an aside, I never realized that Bulgaria was a player in the woodworking machinery game. I think more in terms of Italy, Germany, Austria and Slovakia.

    

   Regards,  Earl

3. 
   giametti | Dec 17, 2005 10:52pm | #11

   I bought mine in the spring of 2000. I believe that until that point the LT16SEC was the same as the LT16, with the addition of the Carter guides that gave a full 12" resaw. When I bought my unit it had the 12" resaw with Euro guides, so I'm guessing that the newer saw has more height than the earlier versions--which explains going from a 124" band to 130".I had thought that the LT16HD was always made by ACM. Even in 2000 it was a bigger, heavier, better saw that I couldn't afford at the time. Incidentally, the Bridgewood saws back then were the same as the LT16HD, made by ACM in Italy. They still may be.Laguna shifted from Meber to the Bulgarian company 2 years ago. Better profit margin, I would guess. Haven't heard anything on how they compare quality-wise.Also around 2000 or so, some of the Laguna sales people left the company, and started Mini-Max USA. The guy who sold me my Laguna bandsaw later sold me my MiniMax combo machine, and now works for Felder.Jim Eddy

   [URL=http://www.jameseddywoodworks.com]James Eddy Woodworks[/URL]

4. 
   Jimma | Dec 19, 2005 06:10pm | #13

   My "Laguna" LT 16HD, which has Meber painted right on the top cover, uses a 124-inch blade and the length is stated right in the p-poor owner's manual. Always get my blades from Timberwolf. Yes -- it's a greenish color with Carter guides bought in early 1998 and they claim it will work with a one-inch blade. Three-quarter-inch blades are about as wide as practical in my experience. How do you like that cheesy miter guage and non-US type slot?

5. 
   EarlJ | Dec 19, 2005 08:05pm | #14

   Jimma,

   Thanks for the response. I agree, there are a number of shortcomings for such a high end machine. Overall it has been a well behaved beast. I bought a 1" bi-metal blade from Laguna (Lennox) I think. It certainly powers through the hard stuff but try as I might my resaws look like they are straight from an industrial band saw mill. On the mitre gauge and slot issue, I did not even receive a mitre gauge and the slot is worthless. I ended up making my own out of oak. My main peeve is the extremely low end fence and attachment method. Just when you think you have your thickness dialled in, tightening it moves the damn thing by at least 1/8". I threw it out and I use a clamped homemade fence instead. I also was not terribly impressed by the roughness of the table either, although a solid and flat one. To be honest, although this thing has a number of features that are very good It probably was not worth the 15-1600$ I paid for  it. I think I got carried away by all the hooplah about Laguna and the mags at the time raving about them. Oh well. Oh, by the way, mine was painted grey with the Meber logo on the side of the top wheel housing. I think mine was straight of the container from Italy.

   Regards,  Earl

    

6. 
   Jimma | Dec 22, 2005 12:27am | #15

   Earl -- about the resaw problem. Are you diappointed in your resaws because they are rough, or is there something else wrong?JimP.S. I didn't get notification that you replied to my last post. Guess the new format doesn't allow that.

   Edited 12/21/2005 4:29 pm ET by Jimma

3. 
   QCInspector | Dec 18, 2005 12:30pm | #12

   May I toss you two more ways to get your bandsaw blade length, if you can't find any string and you don't want to do the math. The first is just take your tape measure and wrap it around the wheels along the same path that the blade takes. The second method is even easier. Take one of your old dull blades and cut it, or flex it back and forth until it breaks. With the blade on the floor, check it with your tape measure. Happy cutting.

   By the way, my 10 inch dado blade set has a 5/8 bore ;-)

   
   

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   Edited 12/18/2005 4:53 am by QCInspector