I’m currently working on a blanket chest based on an old Pennsylvania German design which uses applied molding on the lid. My question is this: what is the best way to apply the molding to the sides of the lid to account for wood movement? I was planning to miter the front corners, although the original looks like a typical breadboard end that is shaped after applying. My thought was to use a tongue and groove for the sides and only glue the front edge by the miters. But with the hinges on the back, will this work? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Replies
Can you post a picture or drawing of what the moulding application should look like?
Steve - in Northern California
Steve, This picture isn't that good, but it's what I'm trying to accomplish. Notice how it looks like a breadboard end that is molded after attaching. Anyway, that's what it looks like to me.
If you breadboard the 2 ends (with T&G) and connect to the front molding with glued miters, place a peg in a tight hole in the T&G close to the miter so that the front of the end does not move and cause a break in the glue joint. Place additional pegs, as you move to the rear, in sloted tongue holes so the top can expand and contract freely towards the rear of the chest. The original chest might not have had a rear molding. if it did, back then they were not too concerned if the rear miters open up. Some of the ones in museums are crudely made. You could avoid miters at the rear. Run the sides to the back, & make the rear mold a butt joint with the ends.
If you're going to put a breadboard ends on it, have you considered just cutting the molding into the top and the breadboard ends?
Alan
No, I want the look of a thicker top. See photo I posted in reply to Steve. I'm basing this whole design on a photo in an old book, so I'm kind of winging it.
Construction of American Furniture Treasures, by Lester Margon, has a chapter on a Pa. (German) Provincial Dower Chest, that is in the Met. Museum of Art (NYC). It is one of the most well known chests with painted panels, the center panel has 2 rearing horses facing each other. The construction details show 2 breadboard ends (no front miter, no front or rear mold). The breadboard (T&G) ends are thicker than the top. The gap in the front has a filler strip attached to the bottom of the top. The book has drawing/dimentions. There are few finer than this.
Jim, thanks for the info. I'll check B&N at lunch, if they don't have it, I'll go to amazon. Thanks again.
Tim
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