I’m curently been workign on a piece of South American Mahogany and i’ve been wanting to finnish one of the serfaces to a ivory white.
I found two main stream products out there to bleach, a A/B bleach system and Oxalic Acid.
I’m wondering as to which bleach would give my best results, and tips on the actual bleaching process. (also which brands people recomend)
I’d also like some of your personal oppinions on a nice final coat to seal the wood off, any ideas are very welcome.
Replies
E; The oxalic is OK for removing certain stains like for steel nails when it gets wet, but I don't think it will bleach out to white.
The two part stuff will though. I have only used on the natural surface of a few turnings which I left unfinished.
You may be in for a real challenge achieving this finish. When you use this bleach, it seems to be leaching a lot of the solid material out of the cells leaving something akin to paper on the surface. If you use a finish which really wets these cells, I think it will make them more translucent.
I would try to lightly mist the surface with something really fast drying to keep from loading these cells.
My two cents, Keith
e-raser,
Before anything else, you may want to first try some grocery store, laundry bleach. Good old Clorox--or Brand X, they're all the same--will bleach lots of woods white. I've used it on pine, Douglas fir and walnut; it made all of them alabaster white.
As long as you know you want the wood about as white as it can get, go ahead and apply bleach full-strength and let it sit. If after sitting overnight it's still not white enough for you, do it again. I'd think if after two applications it's not bleached enough for you, it's time to bring in the heavy stuff.
There are at least two great things about using laundry bleach: it's much less dangerous than the nuke-bleach; and you can whiten everything in sight for less than a dollar.
Alan
thanks i'll definalt try that out on some scrap pecess this comming week,
i'm wondering if there is any way to "thicken" bleach so to controle where it gose, i have two edges which (surface and a beveled edge) which meet but i plane on have both in different finishes.
also still interested in how someone whould finnish off bleached wood.
e-raser ....
Be vary careful with common household bleach. I can't add anything to the conversation with regard to bleaching wood but I hope you have a good pair of safety glasses which you'll wear when handling this stuff. Bleach in the eyes is not something you want to experience first hand. Have plenty of ventilation. Chlorine isn't too kind on the bodie's breathing system. Latex gloves come to mind as well.
You can't be too careful.
Good luck!
...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
i was reading up in fine wood working an article in jan/feb 1984, there the porfolio of Judy Kensley McKie shows a couch with bleached Mahongany. She discribes using Lye and peroxide out in the sun to achive the effect.
anyone ever try this out, the final result is gorgeuse (from the looks of the photos), but it says nothing about what proportions or how it was applied and nutrilazed.
also no one should worry about me burning my eyes out. I have a visor, acid resistant gloves, a resperator and the whole lot, i find i have the tendancy to work with alot of toxic stuff so I'm well prepared.
Lye and peroxide is the two-part A/B bleach. Just packaged as a kit. Drugstore peroxide is only 3 or 5%. The stuff in the kits is 20%. Works much better. Household bleach should be washed well and neutralized. Very alkaline. Oxalic acid is good for metal stains, but won't lighten the basic color of the wood as much as peroxide. Read the instructions. Concentrated peroxide is potent stuff.
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