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Although I love the look of an oil-varnish finish (e.g., Deft Danish Oil)and use it almost exclusively on hardwood tables, cabinets, etc., I haven’t been able to prevent excessive bleeding or sweating. I’ve rubbed down some oak and cherry a dozen times over several days to prevent development of hardened beads of finish.
I’ve tinkered with the stuff out of the can by adding a little more varnish or linseed oil, diluting it with mineral spirits, warming it up in a double boiler, adjusting the temperature of my shop, and so forth. I must admit I’m not a stickler for allowing wood to acclimate after planing: generally, a week or two after I plane a board it gets the Danish Oil treatment as part of a cabinet or table.
Any suggestions or theories would be greatly appreciated.
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You should not be having this trouble over the time frame you mentioned. I would: 1) try a different brand oil; 2)Don't tinker with the formula; 3) don't flood the surface, but put on multiple, thin coats.
The Oak is going to bleed back out of the pores, but that SHOULD stop within a few days. You might consider a wiping tung oil varnish (Waterlox, Formby's Tung oil finish, McClosky's - all pretty much the same) for your Oak projects.
Good luck.
*Is it possible that the wood has been so burnished that the pores are unable to absorb the oil finish?I am not a woodworker, but refinisher and had this problem on some oak that I probably sanded too finely.
*I am also having trouble with Watco Danish Oil on Cherry. Very small beads of oil keep coming back. I wipe them off and they come back. As times go on it takes longer for the beads to appear (after a week it is around 12 hours) but they keep coming. Any suggestions?
*Jack,This is caused by the oil absorbing into the wood fibers surrounding the pores of the wood which are also filled with oil. The swelling causes the pores to constrict and squeeze the oil back out to the surface causing those pesky hard beads. A heavy coat on the first application followed by periodic wiping of the surface is the only way to deal with this inevitable problem.Stephen
*When I first used Watco danish oil about 20 years ago I had the same problem. I called the factory and got some good help. The problem is moisture in the wood or the air. I live near the upper great lakes and the summers can get very humid. The key is not to apply the oil when its very humid. I never have the bleedout problem in the winter. Also the stuff has a shelf life. I'm not sure what it is but I would't use a can more that 1 year old.
*do not use Watco Danish Oil. I have a friend that has done some extensive testing on the product, and has all ways found the bleading problem. I heard from another woodworker the problem was accuring ten years after finishing the piece. Your work and wood in general deserves better.
*I just finished a cherry bow arm mission chair,& I used Watco.Same problem.However,I took the chair outside in direct sunlight on a hot day for about 3 hours.The chair literally oozed pitch and those little beads of oil.I wiped it down about every 20 minutes.After bringing it back inside,I took a clean rag with a bare amount of denatured alcohol,wiped it down,let dry overnite,then put on a thin coat of Watco.I had no more bleeding,and just a bare amount of red highlights from the sun exposure.Finished the chair with a very thin coat of wipe on satin poly & the chair is absolutely gorgeous,& no bleeding.Maybe I got lucky.Have no idea why it worked,but I was willing to try anything.Maybe someone else has had a similar experience.
Bleeding Danish Oil
I have found that cycling the shop temperature, in the winter, between 60 and 75 degrees over a three day period, for 8 hours per cycle, that it fundamentally “squeezes” the residual oil out of the pores of red oak.
I work specifically with ebony and oil. Why not, customers can afford it. Anyhow, I have a piece of Brazilian ebony that comes with a warning about it dulling blades, etc. meaning it's pretty hard stuff. First thing I do is rub it down with steel wool and liberally apply Danish oil. Watco and Tried and True are my favorites. The 1st coat dries relatively quickly. As quickly as it can on steel-hard wood.
I also believe in the adage, "You gotta dance with who brung you," meaning if I start with oil I finish with oil. Never had a problem with bleeding. Just lucky I guess.
Another thing. Check out the library section on the Woodcraft site. There are good articles on finishing by Alan Noel, a professional finisher.
Hope this helps.
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