Replies

1. 
   mudman | Sep 16, 2006 06:52am | #1

   I used more than 40 of them about two months ago. Instead of upper cabinets we had only shelves. If I remember correctly the load capacity was 80 lbs per pair. For a 6" shelf I think that would be reasonable if you are in studs. All these shelfs were the upper cabinet standard 12" deep. The only trouble was with the shelf that holds the plates and bowls (10 or 15 of each) and the microwave. For the plate shelf I used 5 of those mountsover a 30" shelf hitting every stud (you can only get one screw hole over a stud) and filling in with the drywall anchors provided. It will hold up but the shelf is a little bouncy. The microwave was a challenge, the shelf was 18" or 20" deep and had to hold a lot of weight. I added as many of those anchors as was possible and it was still too bouncy. So I added a nearly invisible 1/16" steel rope to secure it. The micro wave is stainless so it blends in.

   Complications.....

   First of all the layout was a PITA. I wanted to hit every stud with screw. each bracket holds 6 screws but only 2 are adjustable (horizontaly). I made a story stick of the wall marking the studs then using that I made sure that the adjustable hole (either the left or right one would hit a stud. First I drilled the holes, you will need a longer than normal drill bit for this. I ended up drilling as far as the drill press would go, then using a cordless to finish it out, because the stroke on my DP is not enough. next I router the stepped recess for the bracket. I started using a jig and bushing but switched to doing it free hand using layout lines made by installing the post with the bracket on backwards and tracing the outline. that was a lot faster. The recess does not need to look pretty since it will be against the wall. the thicker the shelf the easier it will be. I only had an 1/8" between the recess and the top or bottom of the shelf, so it would have been easy to have cut into the visible area.

   Luckily I mocked up a shelf first to see how it would hold up, that is how I determined how many I needed for the various loads. Had I not done that I would have gotten it wrong.

   The installation was not as bad as I thought it would be. I was convinced that nothing would line up. (some of the shelves were 6' long and had a lot of holes to lins up. I installed the brackets then the posts onto the brackets (the post cannot be installed into the shelf first) I loosely tightened the screw and we installed the shelfs using dead blow mallets. Since the set screws were loose it self adjusted as it went on. we then pulled the shelves off (very hard to do on the long ones) and tightened the set screws. Something I figured out is that as you tighten the set screw the post/clip bends up at an angle. If you get that angle corect you can compensate for the deflection that WILL occur. That is my only real complaint, the brackets are very strong (the anchors will be the weak point) but for 12" shelves with some weight they were bouncy. on a 6" shelf there would be no problem.

   All in all the brackets allowed me to install an amazing kitchen (no uppers, looks supper cool) and it was a lot easier than previous methods (epoxying steel bars into the studs). There was no onsite carpintry needed, they installed faster than normal cabinets. I think they are a good product if you are aware of their limitations (a large microwave on an 18" shelf seems to be the limit).

    

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 16, 2006 05:42pm | #4

   Wow Mike, you put 'em to the test!  For me, it's just one shelf, for a friend.  She wants a thinner board, though, than these are designated for.  So  they may not be an option.

   The catalog says 1" board.  I think Barb is wanting 3/4".  It doesn't have to hold much weight at all, but certainly needs to stay on the wall.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 16, 2006 04:27pm | #2

   FG

   The answer is "no" - but I have had great luck with the piano wire jobbies. Invisible, incredibly strong and easy to lay out, install and change if necessary.

   Wire is about 1/16" thick in a very elongated "u" shape. The ends go into drilled holes in the uprights (practivcally invisible if you need differrent shelf spacing), the "U" portion slides into a kerf in the self end. I've had no trouble with shelf movement but that doesn't mean it won't happen. I've used them with both plywood and solid wood. You probably should bias the kerf toward the bottom of the shelf in plywood,

   Just checked my catalogs and can't find them. Sorry - but they're still good.

   Frosty

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 16, 2006 05:43pm | #5

   "Just checked my catalogs and can't find them."  Darn!  Sounds intriguing.  Will keep my eyes open.  Maybe someone else will come up with a source, as it sounds like they might work with a thinner (3/4") shelf.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   mudman | Sep 17, 2006 06:37am | #6

   I bought mine from Lewis and Company. They have several locations. You will have to create a comercial account with them, but that is no problem. They ship to me for free (or they deliver to my shop on their turck).

   They will not work on a 3/4" shelf  the bracket is too wide (tall). I have used the steel rod in the stud method. I got the best results using high grade cromolly steel. It is expensive and cannot reasonably be cut without special tools. I had a local machine shop order the steel cut the rods, knurell (sp?) one side and bevel the ends. It cost a lot more than those brackets,  but there was no deflection. It was MUCH harder to install because the dowels wouldn't move to fit. I ended up slot morticing the shelves (elongated holes) so the horizontal alignment would work. I epoxied the shelf side (also the knurled side), and even though the holes are wide there is NO way they will come out.

    Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 17, 2006 04:24pm | #7

   FGJust decided to try the universal source - Google. "wire, shelf supports" turned up this link. Good LuckFrostyhttp://www.cabinetware.com/WdsRemote2/ShelfHardware.asp

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 17, 2006 06:11pm | #8

   Oh, those things.  Thanks!  Although they wouldn't work for this project (the shelf won't contact any walls on the sides), they are an approach that I really like -- have them in some big bookcases we bought -- and I'm glad to know where I can get them.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

3. 
   a_Furnitologist | Sep 16, 2006 05:04pm | #3

   Hi:

      Never used this particular produt but have hung numerous custom shelvery.....is that a word?....with same idea different approach. Your last state on  staying snug to the wall is key.

      You can drill into the studs and with metal rod stock hammer into a tight fit.  (Take the Mona Lisa down on the backwall.) Just angle the rods upward slightly for that snug to the wall fit.  On a shelf with for instance a 3" bullnose 8, 9, 10 feet long, waterfalled to different levels,  the construction would be hollow, with rabbets machined so a top could be dropped on. With designs like this, screw the backedge into studs.