Hi,
Seems I make a cabinet every so often that uses the euro hinges. I generally wait till I have forgotten how to set it up and scratch my head for a while before experimenting.
This time I ordered the Blum catalog and figured I had a handle on it but not so far.
here’s the “problem”:
I was under the impression one would bore the hinge exactly 23.5mm from the door edge and use different mounting plates depending upon the overlay. As I got confused i checked the catalog and they figure about 5 different bore centers depending upon bore somthing or another…
Bottom line I can’t figure out the exact distance to bore my hinges for a 1/2″ overlay I guessed 23.5 and it seems to work out but here’s the other part of the problem, I need to make part of it 5/8″ overlay…I thought I could buy a 5/8″ overlay mounting plate but the ones I got are indentical to the 1/2″ over lay they just seem set back from the from of the face frame more.
Any “Idiots Guide to Blum” you could direct me to. and if you know could you give me the exact numbers I need now.
Thanks,
Bro. Luke
Replies
One easy way to figure it out, with a minimum of head scratching, is to take a piece of scrap that's 3-4" wide X the the length of your door.
Drill it, set the hinges in, then take the scrap to your cabinet. You don't even have to screw in the mounting plate. This little mock-up should tell you how to adjust your drilling distance from the edge of the door.
I use Grass hinges, and for most applications, the distance from the edge of the door to the edge of the cup hole is 1/8" -- but sometimes this has to be altered, depending on the type of hinge you are using and the configuration of your cabinet.
This was also very confusing to me when I started using the Euro hinges years ago. For a time, I made notes on each hinge I used, and then I transfered the notes to a mock-up board for each of the various hinges.
Now I use those boards to set up the drill press -- which takes no thinking, and only a few minutes.
Does that make sense?
********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
There are too many variables to make a foolproof and easy way to remember the parameters - which hinge, which plate, door thickness, overlay, etc. But assuming you're using 3/4" doors and the common 107°or 125° hinges, you should have the following:
For your 1/2" overlay you need a full overlay hinge, mounting plate of what they call 3mm spacing, and drill 5mm in from door edge (22.5 mm to center).
For your 5/8" overlay you need the same hinge, mounting plate with 0mm spacing, and drill the same 5mm in from door edge.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
Thanks,The supplier I go to, actually ALL the guys around here are very un helpful, make you feel like a burdeon even thouth I spend about $5k a year with each of them....I guess it's just not much compared to others and I get the "home owner" treatment.Are there any good reference books that deal with the complxities? I'm suprized Blum doesn't have more of an "idiots guide".Thanks again,Bro. LukeBro.Luke
Bro-Blum has its complete catalog on line. The hinge portion is at:http://tinyurl.com/334zjpThe attachment shows a sample page that contains information about various applications and their required drilling distance. Note that all measurements are in millimeters.
Even though you are not using Grass, they are basically the same as Blum as far as the specs are concerned, and I thought you might find it helpful to read through their technical info for a basic overview.http://www.grassusa.com/Unfortunately, I can't give you a direct link to the info, but it's in a pdf file, and I will try to attach it here.EDIT: I just tried the pdf link to see if it was working, which it seems to be. The type is miserably small, but you can click on the pdf link, drag it to your desktop, open it as a normal pdf, and blow it up so it is readable. ********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Edited 2/6/2007 5:48 pm by nikkiwood
For what it is worth, I suggest you call or email Blum directly. I was having a similar problem understanding some dimensions and "they" are very helpful. I used email as I wanted the answers in print.
Then as suggested, make a sample (3 or 4 inch square) and try the fit. Keep trying until you have exactly what you want.
Good luck,
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
It's so strange how the economics change the realities from place to place. In my part of the world (Israel) there are many supply difficulties that can try one's endurance to the breaking point, but Blum, Grass, and Hettich hardware is not one of them. On the contrary, the competition between them is so fierce here that we get real benefits. I have a sales rep from Blum visit my shop 3 times a week, and they deliver an order within 24 hours. They will send a technical adviser at the drop of a hat, and bring me a new tech guidebook before I even know that it has come out. Of course, we do spend some $50,000 a year on Blum products, but it would work even if we were spending less. They're just afraid we'll switch to Grass or Hettich...So enjoy whatever advantages you do have where you are, and figure out some way to live with the rest. Best of luck,
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
I do what Nikiwood said, and it generally ends up about 1/8" from the edge as well.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
Overlay distance is dependent upon the hinge and plate used. In the Blum catalog, the distance from the edge of the cup hole to the edge of the door is specified. The photo shows an excerpt from the catalog, where it explains how to do this. For the hinge selected, a 3mm high plate will yield a 1/2" overlay (13mm) when a 5mm bore distance (edge o' hole to edge o' door). is drilled.
Hope this helps.
BTW, most Blum hinges have a few mm's of adjustment in them, so if you are off by a mm or two, you can often compensate by adjusting the hinge (at least the Clip top series has this capability).
The thing that sorted it out for me was to make a 10 inch mockup, i.e., a corner frame 10" by 10" with a 5" by 10" rectangle to represent the door.
Then I mounted the hinge on the "face frame" and "door" according to my understanding of the instructions. Worked like a charm, took little time, and I didn't ruin the nice cabinet door that I'd just finished.
Mike D
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