I’ve used Blum hinges for years, mostly frameless. I don’t quite understand what’s going on when I mounted a hinge , and inset adaptor, to a couple of test pieces to mimic a cabinet door with a full inset application.
Frame/Inset hinges B71B365 using adaptor 17H5030.21 mounted shows a revel at 0.25 inches and doesn’t adjust anymore, door stile appears cocked backwards, and won’t adjust flush / parallel with frame.
I’ve attached photos that hopefully show what is going on.
Does the hinge require a door stop to force it flush with frame?
Revel seems large, is 0.25 minimum in order for door to open properly?
Am I doing something wrong with the adjustments? I’ve maxed out in all directions.
Replies
Hey there - I have not used that particular set of Blum hinges/plates, but have used others and they are all similar.
First issue is do you need a door stop - yes you do just like with any hinges. If you aren't constructing a stop as part of your cabinet design you can make tiny little wooden "blocks" placed in inconspicuous places at top/bottom or buy Blum "Eurostops" which easily adjust.
Second, is the gap you are noticing. If the reveal is good with doors held in alignment, ignore the rest of this... Usually there is at least 1/8" of in/out adjustability to the hinge movement. If you are adjusted all the way "in" it means you need to drill your 35mm hole farther from the edge of the door. What I do is take the hinge and adjust it so it is midway between all the way in and all the way out. Drill a test door piece 6mm from the edge and see how that fits. If too big a gap, drill it at perhaps 8mm. If too small a gap, drill it at 4mm. Also - make sure you are checking the reveal with the doors held in alignment not canted inwards, that makes a big difference in the size of that reveal. Finally, I would not test this with 2x4 kind of lumber which has rounded edges making it hard to see the gap between door/frame as well as hard to measure distance of 35mm hole to edge of door - use a cut off of reasonable quality wood with crisp corners, even good quality 3/4" plywood or MDF works.
Final hint - I keep 4"x4" pieces of 3/4" plywood with 35mm holes drilled at 4mm, 6mm, 8mm handy for just such testing.
Good luck - let us know how it goes!
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Soft-close european hinges always require some type of door stop in an inset application. When brought flush with your door stop it just start to engage the closing mechanism so it keeps slight tension on the door to hold it closed. Regarding the reveal, I agree as previously mentioned that you need to make a few more tests on placement of the 35mm hole, the recommended installation placement of the hinge may vary slightly with the addition of the adapter you are using in this situation, just make sure you bring your adjustments to zero before you start with a new test. I would also recommend making a test with a doorstop so it brings the door in the correct flush position and then gauge your reveal.
All the best.
Well I need to come clean. The testing process worked great, however the results would have meant I'd need to rebuild the frame and panel doors. I made the stiles only 1.5" wide, to match some other molding pieces. The testing showed I'd need at least 4.5mm offset in order to get the reveal I liked and with a 35mm cup it would cut into the panel.
I wound up using some 25mm hinges instead. I had to add a build out block to mount the plates, but... I really didn't want to rebuilt the doors.
Those 35mm hinges won't got to waste. I'll be sure to make the stiles a bit wider next tiime.
Thanks again for all your great inputs.
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