Replies

1. 
   Floss | Oct 18, 2006 04:24am | #1

   Traditionally they would have been nailed. I see no need to break with that tradition. You could clinch the nails too if you wanted to be really authentic.

   Tremont Nail Company has some nice wrought head nails that would be just right for what you are doing.

   Just put the battens on one side and nail without glue. Your doors are rather small so they should hold up fine. You could use a tongue and groove joint on the edges to help the boards stay flat, however you have selected a fairly stable material and since it is quartersawn I don't really see you having too much of an issue.

   I you wanted to get a little more fancy you could bead the edges as well as making them t&g.

   J.P.

   http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com
1. 
   JonWilliams | Oct 18, 2006 04:47am | #2

   Thanks. I did ship-lap the boards and put a chamfer on the edges. The material was a bit thin for T&G. My main concern is the glueing (or lack of). Is it best to put 2 nails vertically inline in the center of each board or to stagger them on a diagonal?

1. 
   Floss | Oct 18, 2006 03:13pm | #3

   Two nails staggered would would work. You could glue them although I may be a little concerned that the glue would constrain the pieces, depending on the moisture content since the battens are near the ends of the boards they may crack from shrinking. However you did use quartered wood, so again, movement will be slight. I think you could glue with no problems if that would make you feel better about the construction. I don't think it is really necessary. Just my opinion.J.P.http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com

2. 
   joinerswork | Oct 18, 2006 04:34pm | #4

   Jon,

   The board and batten doors in my 1850's era home are screwed together, with the screws applied in staggered fashion across the battens.  Early period doors are more often nailed and clenched, as has been posted.  Wrought nail heads are more attractive than screws, and will hold as well.  If you want to glue the battens to the boards, I'd recommend a spot (2" dia or so) in the center of the intersection of board and batten.

   Traditionally these doors also have a diagonal brace butting against the battens (making a Z) to help prevent sagging.  Narrow as your doors are, it may not be necessary, the glue will also help prevent sagging issues.  You can add the brace later, if they start to droop.

   Regards,

   Ray Pine

3. 
   art | Oct 18, 2006 07:51pm | #5

   On these types of doors I usually rout a 3/4 in wide 1/4 in deep grove under where the batten will go. I then glue an appropiately size piece of 1/4 in plywood to the back of the batten so that it will fit in the groove. This helps prevent sagging. Art 

4. 
   bd | Oct 21, 2006 07:25pm | #6

   Jon,

   I built similar doors for my house about 25 years ago & they are still doing fine with no diagonal brace, in spite of daily use. I used clear pine, 1 x 4 for the boards & battens; glued the center of each board to the batten & staggered 3 screws across the width of the battens & boards; enlarged the holes for the outer screws on each board to allow for some movement. So far, no warping, cupping, sagging or any other kind of failure.

1. 
   JonWilliams | Oct 21, 2006 08:08pm | #7

   Thanks to all who replied. I'm now well into the project and very pleased with how it is going. Again, thanks for the help.