Would someone tell me how to figure up board feet for pricing jobs…I’ve always just roughed it but if I’m going to make a profit I need to cut things a bit closer.
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You've thrown out a very broad question. Hopefully this helps and maybe forces a question or 2 in the direction you're headed.
A board fooot is 12" x 12" x 1" thick. It can also be 6" wide X 24" long X 1" thick or 6 " wide by 12" long by 2"thick.
For instance if you have a pilaster 3"wide by 36" long by 1 inch thick that equals .75 Bd Ft. assuming a case that requires 2 pilasters that's 1.5 bd Ft.
ie: 3x36x1 divided by144 = .75 bd ft.
I have a % attrition that I add in calculating my final bd ft requirments.
JEEZ..........I hope this helps and I enabled other to help you on. If not ask again.
Neil http://www.furnitology.com
If I understand correctly, you would like to know if there is a formula to figure out how much lumber to buy for a given project.
We are entering here the murky subject of yield. There is no formula.
To many factors: grade, distribution of widths, lengths, quality of the lumber beside grade and so on.
You are better off getting more lumber than you think you need (20 - 30%) need and have enough for a small project later on.
With experience you will come close.
If you wanted just the formula to calculate board feet, it is: width in inches x length in feet x inches of thickness divided by 12.
I hope this helps.
C.
Since you are probably using feet for the length, as in 2"x4"x8', just multiply the way it is written and divide by 12. 2 times 4 is 8, 8 times 8 is 64, divided by 12 equals 5.333 board feet per eight foot 2x4.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Figuring board feet.
Easy to figure board feet in dimensioned lumber if you take their measurements. But we all know a 2x4 isn't actually 2 inches by four inches. Question:
In unplaned hardwoods, do we figure the actual measurement of the unplaned board, the planed board that it could be, or some measurement.
The tally on lumber is based on the rough cut dimensions, hardwood or soft. Two inch framing was two inches, or close, before it was surfaced, same with 3/4" once being 1". When I price out a job, I list what I need, 500pcs 2x6x8, 60pcs 2x10x12, etc. With framing lumber, it is usually priced by the piece although, that unit price is based on board feet. A 2x12x20 will cost more per board foot than a 2x4x8 because it takes a more rare tree to get the large size. Lumber yards often have converted the board feet to lineal feet in their pricing. With hardwood, you can often get a lower board foot price on "shorts" which are lengths less than 8'. At one time all lumber was figured by the board foot, today it's mostly just hardwoods.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hey Rick, thankyou very much for that calculator! Converting to board feet has always escaped me!
Thanks for the reply. Some of that I knew, at least at one time, But the brushing up and reassurance really helps.
i don't know wkhat kind of business you are in, but i am in the remodel business an the best way i have fiqured on bidding jobs is if you can fiqure out a system to price Sq. footage, bidding is the hardest part of any business. i know so many people that have folded because of a few bad bids in a roll.
One board foot is one square foot by one inch thick, so it is 12" x 12"x 1" or 144 cubic inches. Multiply length by width by thickness then divide by 144 and you will have your board feet. When bidding a job you need that plus waste plus extra, so you need your footage plus approx. 20-30% as stated before, depending on the grade of wood and what wood. I always try to get 30-50% extra just to have more in stock for other projects. Hope this helps.
thank you-I'm going to print this and put it up in the shop for a bit...
Hello. now you have the formula to calculate b/ft you will still need to adjust for waste %.. If you are able to select the timber yourself you can keep the waste percentage down,if you are having mill/merchant supply they will usually supply over quantity to allow your cutting (and their turnover is more). If you are buying prepared timber to standard widths etc you should be able to manage with about 25% waste, If you are buying sawn through & though (waney edge both edges) the waste factor will be nearer to 100%. While wider boards my have a cost premium I found that the quality was better and the waste percentage was less. i.e one 12" wide board rather than 4 x 3" boards. N.B. waste is only for pricing purposes they become usable offcuts when in the shop......waste from one job is towards the profit on another job. wishing you well
regards Teabag
thank you...
hi,
i always struggled trying to remember how to calculate board feet, so once i figured it out i created a ms excel spreadsheet to allow me to calculate the bd. ft. for a single board or for multiple boards. here's a link to my website where you can see the spreadsheet and, if you like it, download it for free:
http://www.rickswoodworking.ca/#Board
it's already been downloaded over 200 times this month without any problems reported so i know it works.
Rick in Cowichan Bay, B.C. - 50km north of Victoria, B.C.
My Website: http://www.rickswoodworking.ca
I went ahead and added your site to my favorites and will download the spreadsheet later-a quick look at the site but it looks very informative....thanks
I've always just roughed it but if I'm going to make a profit I need to cut things a bit closer.
I was in Marketing.. I'd go fer 10 times markup and get richer clients.. If they complain I tell em' OK at 12 times markup?
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