I’m building display cases out of mahogany. I face jointed the boards, then planed, then jointed one edge. After ripping my peices to approximate width, I went back to the jointer to remove saw marks and get to final width. After this operation, the boards were narrower at the ends by about a 32nd. What am I doing wrong?
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Replies
You need to adjust the height of the out feed table on your surface planer.
Philip
Which way UP or DOWN?
Im not sure but I think you may need to go up a hair?
That's one way to intentually make tapered legs. In addition to checking the out feed's spacing,(It should be exactly even with The periphery of the cutter knives. (Out feed table height should just touch the workpiece's new undercut surface)
One other thing, some tables are not really perfectly aligned to be exactly parallel to each other.
Best way to check for parallelism is to take a metal level (2' or longer) and hold it down on it's sharp edge to infeed then raise outfeed to just touch the level.
Hold a lamp at the back edge. If you don't see light showing, you're in business. If there's light, you might be able to 'shim' it .
I had to do that with an old Delta once. Stein.
Nope down just a hair. O.K. I'll explain my reasoning. As you push the board along the infeed table it comes to the cutter head and starts to loose a bit of wood in the cut then it hits the outfeed table that being a touch high starts to slowly lift the board off of the cutter head. If you look closely the front end of the board when it arrives at the end of the outfeed table will not be in contact with the table if you maintain pressure on the back end of the board(infeed end). then as the infeed end of the board passes down the infeed table to the cutter head( keeping this end in contact with the table) gives you a constant increase in depth of cut.Thus giving you a taper on both ends. (if you release pressure on the infeed end the board will rock on the front edge of the outfeed and lift the board off of the cut). to adjust the out feed table to the right height place a level or any real strait edge on the out feed table sticking out over the cutter head . Turn the cutter head by hand and lower(or raise) the out feed table until the cutter knife lifts and moves the strait edge a mm or two. This will give you a very slight taper to the center of the board which is perfect for glue up. If you want it perfectly flat adjust accordingly. Hope this is helpful.
Philip
Narrower at BOTH ends? Or only at one end?
If narrower at both ends, your blades may not be flush to the outfeed table, or the tables may not be parallel.
If narrower only at one end, but still straight from end to end, you've cut a taper. Make sure there was nothing under the board on the infeed table the might have lifted the leading edge. The most common mistake my students make at the jointer is NOT blowing dust and chips off the infeed table before using it. All it would take to taper by 1/32 is something 1/32 thick lifting the leading (or for that matter trailing) edge.
Hope that helps.
4DThinker
4D-I think you nailed it...so to speak. But if not that, then perhaps the edge (end) was a bit narrower after cutting it to width on the TS? A TS blade out of parallel?
Chuck T-
Double check that the saw blade is parallel to the miter slot.
Or I could be full of beans...............
Edited 6/2/2003 1:43:21 AM ET by BrianMcG
Pardon me for being dense, but what the heck is the question here? Chuck says in his 1st post that the boards were narrower after coming off the jointer when edge-jointed. Not "thinner" but narrower! So how'd we get off into adjusting his planer? Wop seems to be addressing the jointer, yes, and Brian (smart guy that he is) picked up on the fact that we don't know for sure that the stock was square just before the edge jointing.
This is giving me a headache.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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