I have a job to do making a slatted cover for a boat hatch. The one I’m replacing is made of mahogany and finished with something (probably spar varnish). It is splitting in several places and has been glued and screwed (literally). Joints are coming apart and there is mold growing in several places underneath.
I suggested making a duplicate out of white oak and not finishing it. My reasoning is that the wear and tear on the hatch cover will soon abrade any finish that is applied and the wood will blacken in those spots from the tannins in the oak. So if no finish is applied the piece will be more uniform in appearance as it ages.
The customer agreed to that.
I have also considered black walnut (again unfinished).
But as usual when I’m operating in an unknown area for me I like to go to the experts.
I would appreciate your input.
Thanks, Dave
Replies
In a word - UGLY UGLY (oops, I guess that's two words, LOL). With no finish it will look poorly in fairly short order. If it's a fiberglass stinkpot, go for it, cuz its probably already about as ugly as it can be ;-). The hatch will certainly last a good while, made of white oak, but if you want to go with no finish, teak would be a better choice (and still better if finished...)
Ed,
I am sorry, I have you confused with someone who always post negative comments, especially to anyone who doesn't handplane their stock.
My appologies,
Michael
Make it out of mahogany, like the original. Explain to the owner that film finishes need to be maintained. A true spar varnish might not be the best finish, even in a marine environment. If it's going to get foot traffic, maybe an exterior poly would be a better choice. In any case, it's going to have to have work done on it every year or so if the cover's going to last & look good. Wooden boats & brightwork need constant maintenance.
Dave,
Ignore Ed, he would have a nasty remark even if a nun asked for advice. I am not sure which hatch cover you are speaking of, the horizontally sliding hatch over the cabin, or the companionway slats that slide in vertically and are in place when you lock up the boat are are in heavy seas.
Black walnut does not have the rot resistance that white oak, a classic wood that has been used in boatbuilding forever.
If the owner isn't one to renew their brightwork every year, and few do, then your idea of leaving it unfinished is okay. The hatch over a cabin does not get all that much wear, and finishing it with a durable finish would be a better idea. The slats get taken in and out constantly if the boat is in use and leaving them to turn grey is a fine strategy.
As for plastic boats, they are for people who like to sail more than polish. Sort of like people who collect tools rather than make things. To each his own.
"Ignore Ed, he would have a nasty remark even if a nun asked for advice. "
Not true. You'll have to look long and hard to find nasty words from me.
Quite simply, if this is a proper boat (I detest the overly used, so pretentious "Yacht", which most of us will never see. let alone set foot upon) unfinished wood (other than teak, which seems to be somewhat in style, tho it does look MUCH better with a finish on it (decks excepted, of course)) will stick out like a sore thumb. Now, if it were a fish boat, that would be different, but white oak, left out in the weather, ain't a thing of beauty, LOL.
If folks do NOT wear street shoes on the boat, varnished, horizontal surfaces can be stepped upon without undue wear and tear. Companionway dash boards certainly could suffer from being tossed about; I've seen them stored in cloth sleeves to minimize scratching, chipping, etc when they have been removed.
Varnish fails for a number of reasons, most related to water getting behind the finish and, being this is a boat, water is readily available, LOL. There is a fair vote for the use of CPES (http://www.smithandcompany.org/) under bright finishes to extend the life of the finish. In my experience finish applied over fiberglass is far more robost (in the sense it doesn't degrade as rapidly) than a finish applied directly to wood. West Systems epoxy discusses this at some length. Varnish, on horizontal surfaces especially as it is "dark", suffers also from direct sunlight, which is compounded with moisture under the finish. Dark finishes do not reject as much of the sun's energy as do light/white ones. You can check this with a light meter.
Dave,
I am assuming that if it slotted it is a companionway board to allow for ventilation and I would strngly suggest either mahogany or teak. Teak is the best to use in a marine environment ( that's why most boats with wood have teak). I use mahogany and varnish it. I am building a power bopat and while white oak is used as frames, it is not a pretty wood to use as an exterior wood.
As to finish, I use varnish but if like most owners these days they don't want to maintain it, there is a product I, and many others , have used called Cetol. It is a product that lasts for about a year in the outside marine environment and is easy to apply. After a year just apply some more. If you want a very attractive varnish-like finish , I suggest applying 2-3 coats of what is a "base coat" Cetol and then a coat or two of the "gloss" Cetol. You end up with a very resistant surface, looks almost (?) like varnish, but lasts a year. Cetol can be obtained in just about any good marine store (West Marine, US Boats, Jamestown Distributors, etc). Cetol has a slightly "yellow" cast that many don't like but for the owner who doesn't want to do much, it is a match made in heaven.
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