I’m planning a basic book shelf. The shelves will be 3/4 plywood, 37.5″ long, to allow for 36″ of shelf space and 3/8″ on either end dadoed into the sides (also 3/4″ plywood).
Assuming that the shelves will sag, I’m planning on gluing and finish nailing 1×2 supports across the fronts of the shelves. How should I join the supports to the 1×2 face frame?
My first thought was mortise and tenon. Sometimes I think doweled. Sometimes I think metal brackets will be easiest and most effective.
If m&t, how deep should the tenon be? One more note: I’m going to use Southern Yellow Pine from BigBox home improvement store. I know it’s very soft but it’s also budget-minded. Of course, if I’m doing this to save money over a purchased book shelf, maybe I should spend a little more on materials to save in the long run…..the wife will say it’s up to me, but if she can buy one cheaper and faster than I can build one…..
Replies
Sorry, mistake in that post: The shelves will not be 37.5" long, they'll be 36.75". It's a good thing I didn't quit my day job for this...
GJ
At first blush it seems like you don't need to bother connecting the supports to the face frames. Just cut them for a snug fit to the face frames and secure them to the shelves as you described. They aren't going anywhere!
BJ
I like that answer!
I usually biscuit joint a frame onto the shelves.
Sheldon
What Sheldon is saying, is that one makes up the face frame first covering the sides, the top, and yes the shelves and they are bisquited together as a single face frame unit, then either nailed onto the plywood, or better yet, bisquited again into the carcass.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
I don't own a biscuit jointer.
Use dowels.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Or you could put a few screws under the dowels.
I'd bet you have a drill.
My philosophy on Buy vs. Build:
If you build it, you'll have to buy a tool to do it right. If you buy it, you'll wish you had the tools to built it.
Hey, this Sunday is your best chance .. to .. umm .. err .. build that bookcase!
-Ken
PS. This Sunday is Father's Day!
GJ,
I'll be different again! :o) I seem to do that alot.
Dado the shelves to the sides because you don't have a biscuit cutter. Since you have to cover the shelf ply edge anyway, rabbit joint a smaller brace to the front of the shelf, flush to the top and sticking off the bottom some and projecting back. Tack nail thru the back into the shelves for extra support, why not the shelves are fixed.
Enjoy, Roy
gj13,
Picking up on Roy's idea...running a rabbit for the shelf to sit in...you could also do a 1/2 lap 1/2 dovetail into the face frame uprights...very fancy...
gj13
I agree with Roy. The front edges have to be covered anyway. Use a rabbit so the bottom of the shelf sits at the bottom of it and the top is flush with the top of the shelf.
Now, something that has not been mentioned is how your gonna finish the book-case. If you're going to paint them, this opens up a whole different can of worms as to how to attach with little effort....
sarge..jt
Sarge, Roy, et al:
O.k. I'll rabbet the support rail so the shelf sits down flush with the top, if I'm reading this correctly. I was planning on dadoing the sides.
It will be painted white. Which means I would probably use drywall screws and putty.
Thanks for the help.
gj13
Your reading correctly. The dadoes on the end is the ticket also. If you're painting (I thought you might be considering you were using yellow pine ply), you could even glue the support rails with clamps and re-inforce with finish nails or sheet-metal screws. You counter-sink with screws and use a pine plug to fill the hole or fill with putty. Sand it flush when completed.
If you use putty, let it dry throughly and re-apply. It will shrink in most cases. Just re-sand after the second application if it is required. By painting, you have endless options that would be much more difficult than using stain and an oil finish. Screws on the outside ends into the ends of the dadoed shelves is an option also for added support. Depends on how heavy-duty you want to get. ha..ha..
BTW, seal the ply when assembled and you'll probaly have to go at least three coats of paint. I have worked a lot of yellow ply here in Ga. and it will soak up paint big-time. If you want the grain to show through as in a faded look, judge after each coat is dry.
Good Luck...
sarge..jt
Yeah, based on a little experience, I'm sealing everything with shellac before painting.
p.s. My wife likes to paint everything I make for the house. And it has to be white. Always with the white. We inherited an old mahogany dining room suite (table, five chairs, buffet, sideboard, china cabinet) in need of restoration and she want to paint it white.
gj13
Sounds like she is either a nurse or a former angel. I better get to work fore I get in trouble. Good luck with the surgical book-shelves. ha..ha..
sarge..jt
Maybe an angel, but an engineer for certain.
gj13,
Glue and finishing nails with a little putty will look a bit better under the paint...
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