Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Nov 15, 2005 03:55am | #1

   I normally use a hand held router with a fence. You are only cutting in from the edge a couple of inches, at most. At one time the KV shelf standards were the only type of shelf supports I used. They were the most specified for architectural casework. Now days, I like the pin style with grommets. The shelf standards are 5/8" wide and I only cut deep enough to allow the radius on the edge of the standard to stand proud. If you cut too deep, the metal looks like it doesn't fit correctly and the nails may poke though the side of 3/4" material. It's a big help to have the numbers all start the same on the metal standards. Makes shelf adjustment easier later.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   notDusty | Nov 16, 2005 10:18am | #2

       wendy ,

                           Whichever set up is quickest for you is probably the way to go . Do you have an adjustable dado set ? Do you have a 5/8" router bit ? I would most likely use the one that would require the least amount of passes .

                    hope this helps                           dusty

3. 
   Glaucon | Nov 16, 2005 06:41pm | #3

   I'm not a big fan of dados for bookcases.  Bookcases often handle a great deal of weight- they are subject to both racking forces and tension- these forces tend to unseat dados.  If you are working with solid wood, I'd favor sliding dovetails.  If you are using ply, the dados will need to be reinforced.  I wouldn't use mdf, particularly for shelves- it sags too easily.

   As the builder (and owner) of many bookcases (and many books), I think the adjustable shelf argument is a bit fey.  I seldom adjust bookcases, and many that I have seen elesewhere show by their UV fading that they aren't adjusted either.  When I build a bookcase these days, I measure my books and design the shelves accordingly.  It makes for a stronger unit, particularly if dovetailed.

   Just my 2p,

   Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

4. 
   Ricks503 | Nov 16, 2005 06:55pm | #4

   I have done that before and it depends on if you want the dado (technically a groove in this application) to be blind at the top and bottom.  If you don't care, any way that is fastesat and most comforatble to you is the way to go.  I used my handheld router for one and my tablesaw for the other.  Since I used the same offset from the edge at front and rear, I found it fastest to use the tablesaw - set the height and ran all boards thru, flipped 180* and reran them again and had the dado as I wanted.  Of course I ran some test pieces thru first to check depth and proper fit - even after useing micrometer to measure width and Incra gauge to set height.

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
1. 
   wendy | Nov 16, 2005 08:07pm | #5

   Hi,

   Thanks for the advice. Think the easiest method for me.... is to use the table saw for this application since I have a set of adjustable dadoes. It's definitely the fastest way.

   I think you're right about adjustable shelving. Personally I don't like the look of steel standards. 

   I was planning on making the bookcase as a gift for my brother-in-law. So the best thing for me to do is measure his largest books/binders and decide how much space to allow between shelves.  I'll use pine panel for the back instead of 1/4 inch plywood.

   I'm running out of time so I better get crack'n

    

   Wendy

5. 
   BossCrunk | Nov 16, 2005 08:19pm | #6

   The lengthwise shallow grooves for shelf standards are pretty easily cut with a router with a fence attachment.  If you have a dado set for your tablesaw then obviously that will work too.

   Metal shelf standards don't look that great but boy are they efficient.  In a large wall of bookcases they're barely noticed, IMO, and especially so after the units are loaded with books.  The books tend to catch the eye and not the standards.  They seem to be to my eye slightly more noticeable on a single standalone unit.