Good morning all, here is my dilemma. I built a bookcase for my girlfriend as my first project. It is constructed of Birch Plywood and Poplar trim. The look we are going for is the distressed look. I know using latex paint isn’t the best for bookcases (b/c of the sticky properties) but we had already bought $60 worth of non-returnable paint so I had to use it.
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So far I put two coats of Zinsser Cover Stain on the project to seal and protect everything, sanded it down and put two coats of red Benjamin Moore Premium Latex on (this is the base color we will sand down to). I let this cure for about three weeks and put some past wax on the areas I wanted to sand the top layer through to. On Saturday it was beautiful out so I put 2 coats of flat black Benjamin Moore Premium Latex on as my top coat. I really like the way it looks but have a question now:<!—-> <!—->
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1. I am going to let the top coat of black cure for a week before I sand through to the base red along the edges (for the distressed look). Is that long enough?<!—-><!—->
2. The flat black is really dull. Is there something I can do to make it look nice and smooth?<!—-><!—->
3. What can I do to protect the latex from sticking to the bottom of the books? Can I put a water-based poly over it?<!—-><!—->
4. If I put poly over it, how many coats and how long does it need to cure? When can I put books on it.<!—-><!—->
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Sorry for all the questions, and I know now I should use an oil-based paint next time but she is starting to get anxious to use this thing.
Replies
Latex paint sticking to the books can be a nasty problem that doesn't go away even with a week of curing.
You might try a shellac finish: it will bring up the gloss and will preent the paint from sticking. Also, shellac should stick to the paint.
Thanks. Being new to this, can you please recommend a shellac I can use over the paint? Also how long do I need to wait before I can put it on? How many coats and when can the books go on?
Thanks,
joe
Big boxes carry Zinsser shellac. Use the clear stuff and use very thin coats 30-90 minutes apart. You can also get it in spray form. The key is to use very thin coats; padding shellac (check FWW or the Knots archives for info) is my favorite method, but it's not useful if the bookcase is assembled. Then I would use spray shellac--in very thin coats (get the picture?).
A couple days is all that is needed for the shellac to be fully dry.
Read up on shellac at homesteadfinishing.com or do a web search. It's good stuff and very forgiving.
Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
I was unaware that I could put shellac on top of latex. Thanks!!!
Spray it. Dries really fast when brushing.Gretchen
Thanks for the replys and help. Just got off the phone with Zinsser. They recommended using their Bulls Eye Shellac with my HVLP sprayer. I was told though to test on a scrap piece b/c it might yellow the finish. Do you think I would have a problem with that seeing that the bookcase is painted flat black? Will the yellowish shellac show up?
As I said on the other forum you are using, only you can tell if it will be too yellow. Also, Zinsser shellac can be had in both clear and amber. The clear is a lot less yellow than the amber. Also, be aware that you will not be able to later apply an oil based varnish or any waterborne finish over the shellac.Howie.........
He will be able to use traditional resin oil-based varnishes over shellac with wax, but not polyurethane varnishes or waterborne finishes.
I would recommend using Zinsser Seal Coat in preference to the other two, just so more retailers will consider carrying it. And with the Seal Coat, or other dewaxed shellac, you he could apply poly or waterborne finishes.
Ok. so dewaxed shellac seems like the preference. If I understand correctly, it will allow me to apply waterbased poly over it if I chose.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
Howie,
Thanks for being patient with my question on both forums, I really appreciate it.
Hi Howard,
Can you apply zinsser shellac/sealer over oil stain? I know you can apply it over raw wood as a primer when topcoating with paint.
Can you wipe/brush it on wait for it to dry and then stain (oil stain) over it?
I am in the process of putting togeter a small bedside table. Made from Knotty pine( laminated lodgewod pine panel board) My friend told me to use wood putty (lepage's) to seal all the knots. (no need to worry about loose knots. I'm referring to tight knots with minor imperfections like tiny splits. Is that the best way to prepare the wood before applying the Miniwax oil stain? What would happen if I just sanded the raw wood and wiped on the stain? I usually apply a topcoat of Polyurethane but I think this time round I'll use a wipe on varnish. Can make my own using 50/50 paint thinner(mineral spirits) and varnish... Basically I want something that isn't as time consuming as applying 3-4 coats of Polyurethane.
Wanda
Wipe on is an excellent finish and it is easy to apply which is a major benefit of its use. To approximate one coat of undiluted finish requires about 3 coats of wipeon. A usual regimen would be 6-8 coats of wiped finish. You can usually wipe on a number of coats per day.
Gretchen
I can't imagine that you would apply enough shellac to notice any yellowing at all, over a black surface. By the way, with shellac what you see is what you get. Unlike oil based varnishes, shellac color is quite stable.
I usually don't come into Knots..... I am on the other side of the tracks. But after reading this thread I also had a book case that was painted with SW Monarch latex paint and my books were sticking over time. Why or how does this occur? I used this product because of the yellowing tendancy of oil based finishes and the ease of application.
Semper Fi
Edited 9/28/2006 11:54 am ET by Jarhead
The easy solution is to brush on a coat or two of water based poly on the shelves only. Choose one that matches the sheen level of your paint. I never use latex for surfaces that will get a lot of wear, however. But I always use the same kind of WB poly over alkyd paint -- since it will preclude scuff marks, that inevitably occur over time.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Thanks for the response, I will go back and do as you suggest.
Semper Fi
If you try it, scuff sand the painted surface very lightly with 220 grit. Once applied, the WB poly will be invisible; you'll never even know it's there.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Latex doesn't "dry" sufficiently for books or other things to be put on it. Does oil base paint yellow? I haven't see that on my painted walls.Gretchen
I have always used an alkyd paint on casings, doors, etc. and I have never (ever) seen any noticeable "yellowing."The VOC regs will probably render alkyd paints unsaleable somewhere down the line. But until then, I think it is the paint of choice for anything made from wood -- cabinets, doors, casings, and the like.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
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