I am building a 9’ (L) x 8’ (H) set of bookcases that will sit on a corresponding set of base cabinets with doors. The base units are 20”(H) x 18”(D). The shelves are 11″ (w). Side view of unit is an “L”. Each unit will be 36” wide. I plan to build a kick platform 9’ long for leveling purposes on which the base cabinets will sit. The base cabinets and bookcases will be attached to the wall.
My question: how best to attach the bookcase units to their corresponding base cabinet? I’ll use one fixed shelf nearest the base cabs and the other shelves are adjustable. The bookcases and base cabinets will have a ¼” ply back. All units are being built of ¾ “oak veneer and each shelf will have a 1¼ oak drop edge, otherwise it is frameless construction. It is the transition and securing of the bookshelf unit to the base cabinet that concerns me. Suggestions for good design, please.
Thanks,
George
Replies
George,
You could quite simply screw the bookcase units down to the base cabinets. Lay out symmetrically spaced holes and run a nice brass screw in the holes.
However if you ever move these units, or if they have to come apart for any reason, you, or the person moving said units, will thank you if you use a threaded insert between units. These have wood screw threads on their outside and machine threads inside. Plant four of these in the base cabinet top and run a nice flat head brass screw into them.
As for the transition between units, I would either put a small chamfer to create a shadow line between them or run a small molding strip tacked to the bookcase. Best of luck. Gary
Gary,I'd like to send you and email with a rudimentary Sketch-up drawing (I'm in the process of learning it, slowly!) in order to make my questions a bit clearer.George
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George,
You can attach a SketchUp (or any other) file to a message here in the forum. Just click the Attach Files button at the bottom of the window and follow the directions.
-Steve
I am building a 9' long set of book cases with base cabinets and doors consisting of three separate units. The construction is 3/4 veneer and hardwood edging. Where the middle cabinet abuts each cabinet to the left and right this creates the need for 1 1/2 inch face frame edge. I will add a 3/4 dummy" piece on each stile (far left and far right) in order to achieve the inch and a half balance. The left hand corner of the case is open to a hallway; the right hand piece is against a closed wall. Thus the left hand side of the bookcase will be an "L" shaped piece of veneer...with the "dummy" to the inside of the case. The problem this "dummy stile" creates in the base cabinet is the geometry of the door openings...how do I achieve equal openings for the doors in the three base cabinets? I'll attached rough drawings that may help you understand my question.
Is there a really good cabinet book that addresses these kind of built in questions?
Hi,
I'm not sure how we got from attaching the cabinets to door geometry but here goes. Oh, as for a cabinet book, try Jim Tolpin's Building Traditional Kitchen Cabinets. But I think this issue is mathematical.It would seem that the issue is where you place your face frame. If you have three cabinets all at 36" across to make your 9' run and center the face frame on the joint between the center cabinet and its neighbors, you end up with differently sized openings as you point out. The center cabinet would end up with the largest opening at 34 1/2". However, if you take the four sets of face frame stiles totaling 6" in width, i.e. 1 1/2" x 4 = 6, then each cabinet opening, to be symmetrical will need to be 34". 108 - 6 = 102" 102/ 3 = 34".You can move the two center face frame stiles over to account for this if you want your doors to all have the same opening. By my math, move the stiles over 1/4" to the middle from each end. This will make each opening 34" wide. I hope this helps. Best of luck. Gary
Thank you. After scratching my head a lot...I got to the same place.
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