Bookshelf mounting on built-in base cabinet
I’m getting ready to build a base cabinet/bookshelf system for my office and I have a couple of questions I’m hoping someone can help me with.
1) What is the best way to mount the bookshelves on top of the base cabinet counter top? I’ve seen suggestions of using dowels, biscuits, splines, Selby keyhole fasteners, etc. The bookshelf sections will be the same width as the base cabinets, so I can’t screw them from below (the bookshelf will not have a “bottom” shelf). I will attach the top of the bookshelves to the wall, but I think a connection between the bookshelves and counter top would add more stability. Any thoughts?
2) Has anyone used a solid wood counter top instead of veneered plywood? Wood movement is obviously a concern, but I worry about the long-term durability of the thin veneers that are currently available. One option I’ve thought of is gluing a 1/2″ thick solid wood top to 1/2″ plywood (with edge banding). Is that a bad idea? Any other solutions?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Replies
Your bookshelf will be supported by the sides of the lower cabinet per your description. Since the bookshelf will be fastened to the wall (good call there), I would just use 4 positioning dowels, 2 on each side.
Don't glue thick solid wood to plywood. The solid wood will move quite a bit with temp and humidity changes, the plywood won't, so a glued up assembly with either warp or split. You can get away with this if the solid wood is really thin....less than 1/8". Although even then it's not uncommon for the solid wood part to split at glue lines. A (home) office counter top probably won't see the heavy use that a kitchen might, so if you want a wood top, edge banded plywood should be fine. High pressure laminate with solid wood edging is another option (formica), and is pretty bullet proof.
If it's for the office, it's tax deductible! Go for the Ebony that @Mikaol has been using for his latest table....
If you're going to use solid wood just ensure that you take the proper measures - attach with buttons or some other fastening method that will allow movement. As far as the veneer concerns, even though modern purchased veneers are very thin, don't let that fool you about their durability. Unless you plan on beating the tar out of the desk then sanding the holy hell out of it and refinishing, you're good. If you've got a bandsaw or access to one, you could make yourself some shop sawn veneers around and 1/8th or so but don't go thicker. LIke mentioned above, 1/2" is way too thick to be a true veneer - it's just 1/2 solid wood that will continue to act like solid wood. You could go 3/4 ply then use shop sawn veneer top and bottom if you're looking to land at that 1" mark.
Thanks for all the replies and advice. I'm pretty new to woodworking, but I listen to the FWW podcast and read the mag so I knew that wood movement for a solid desktop would likely be an issue. I have no experience with using veneered wood - this will be my first big project making cabinets and bookshelves (not to mention doors!). I don't have a bandsaw (on my list) so it sounds like the sensible thing is to just use the best veneered plywood I can find.
I've spent the last 3 years replacing most of the woodwork in my 1925 bungalow, refinishing 11 doors and the woodwork I didn't replace (a much bigger job than I anticipated) and other related projects - basically a lot of refinishing and trim carpentry. I'm really looking forward to the next step in my woodworking journey with this built-in project. Thanks again for your help (and I really appreciate nobody used the word idiot for even thinking of a solid desktop).
Couple of pics of progress to date. Refinished front door/jamb with new hardware, refinished original built-in birch cabinet with new shelves and birch plywood backing (9 doors not yet re-installed), bedroom with refinished doors, new jambs and baseboard/ceiling trim and dining room with new baseboard/crown. I also had all the windows replaced a few years ago with new frames/trim - a huge job staining/varnishing the frames/trim as well as the windows (13 of them).
GeeDubBee - would biscuits also work? I don't have a drill press for accurately drilling the dowel holes, but I did recently purchase a Dewalt biscuit joiner for assembling the base cabinets.
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