Replies

1. 
   Knotscott | Apr 24, 2006 05:48pm | #1

   You don't even need a blade that says "glueline" to get glue up ready edges.  Just about all decent general purpose and combo blades will give a good polished edge as well.  I'd suggest a 3/32" thin kerf blade with that saw...many of the "glueline" rippers are 1/8" full kerf. 

2. 
   JohnWW | Apr 24, 2006 05:59pm | #2

   A glue line rip blade is designed to leave a smooth relatively fuzz free surface on the stock but the blade won't straighten out a crooked board which is what a jointer is designed to do.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking magazine

1. 
   webby | Apr 24, 2006 07:42pm | #3

   Thanks for the input, small jointers that are truly portable seem too inadequate to even mess with, based on some of the reveiws and experiences of other posters.

   I was hoping for the jobs I need it for, that a glue line rip, a t-saw, and a planer and careful material selection could work  for most situations.

   Webby

1. 
   John_D | Apr 24, 2006 08:57pm | #4

   You could always use hand tools.  You can put a dead flat edge on a board with a jointer plane in relatively little time.  I can personally attest to that...

   Also, some of the edge guide proponents will tell you that their guides and a good circ saw and appropriate blade can put a perpedicular, dead straight edge on sheet goods or solid stock.My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 26, 2006 06:36am | #5

   I'll second the idea of a hand plane and square to joint an edge after ripping.  A power jointer won't hurt, but you still would likely benefit from the hand plane after you get a jointer down the road. 

   The problem with gluing direct from the saw is that, no matter how great the blade, in a very solid saw, you still get a glue line. 

   A truely well made edge joint has NO glue line, only some discontinuous grain lines, where they stop on one board and begin on another.  One test--turn off the lights in the shop, place the two boards to be joined on top of each other, and see if you can see light shining between the boards, pushing them together with no more than light hand pressure. 

3. 
   jazzdogg | Apr 26, 2006 07:03am | #6

   I use the same saw with a Forrest Woodworker II (and blade stabilizer) and a shop-made zero-clearance throat plate with excellent results; I can usually glue up right off of the saw.

    

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie