Bottom Line: Secondary/Micro Bevel on Chisels Yes/No?
So much has been written on this but I’m going to open the can of worms anyway! I recently replaced my Two Cherries with a set of Lie-Nielsen’s and in the process of honing them that question entered my mind. I flattened the back (not much to do on these!), and then use a Veritas guide set at 30 degrees. I use 4000 and 8000 Norton waterstones. I follow up by stropping front and back as needed for a touch up on a piece of cardboard, charged with white rouge that’s laying on the tablesaw. As an experiment, I put a micro bevel on a couple of them and for some reason they didn’t seem to cut as well on some practice dovetails.
Anyone care to weigh in on this? I’d like feedback from other woodworkers — thanks!
Replies
microbevel
I guess my first question would be to ask you for more clarification when you say they didn't seem to cut as well. Same chisel before and after a micro bevel or two different size chisels one with and one without?
Neil
Microbevel
It was two different chisels, both same brand and all but one 5/8 the other 3/4 but both initial bevel of 30 degrees. I guess the controversy regards more to sharpening. As far as the difference in cutting, the one without the micro bevel seemed to enter and cut a bit easier. May be splitting hairs here......
My thought concerning two different sized chisels is that the narrower one will cut more easily so if the microbevel was on the 3/4 inch chisel that might explain some of the problem....if visa versa then of course that's not the answer.
enjoy the chisels,
Neil
Secondary Bevel
I sometimes freehand hone a secondary bevel on a chisel if I'm in the middle of something and don't want to regrind the bevel right at that moment. Normally I depend on the primary bevel (which is hollow because of the grinding) to register the chisel on the stone for freehand honing. I don't seem to notice much difference in the normal flow of work, using a secondary bevel, though I am of course aware that steeper bevel angles put me more in the realm of chopping and harder woods and shallower bevel angles push me more toward the realm of softer woods and control of paring operations.
Probably not much help, but anyway, that's feedback. Good luck, Ed
micro/secondary bevels
The advantages of a secondary bevel in the 2.5°-5° range are: 1) you have a smaller area to hone, and 2) the actual cutting edge is slightly less fragile. The downside, however, is that the increased cutting angle may slightly increase the amount of force needed to make the cut. I'd bet that the difference would be measured in inch-grams, however, (assuming the same chisel size and level of sharpness).
Lie-Nielsen recommends a 5° secondary bevel on their 30° primary bevel for their bench chisels.
Thanks
Apperciate the replies, Ralph I saw where LN recommends the 5 degree secondary and that's easy enough to achieve with the Veritas guide. In the long run, it's probably almost a non-issue. I'm probably being super sensitive to the new chisels. They have a different feel than the Two Cherries I replaced. Those came with a 25 degree angle which seemed to "fold over" rather than hold an edge. When I re-ground them to 30 degrees there was quite an improvement. Sounds like an excuse to really work those chisels on new projects!
Any time you raise the bevel angle the tool is harder to push
John:
A microbevel just increases the bevel angle. A chisel with a 25 degree bevel is easier to push than one with 30 degrees (hence my paring chisels have a 25 degree bevel). By adding a microbevel you increased the bevel angle to 32 to 34 degrees making it take more effort to push into the wood. Any increase in bevel angle makes it harder to get the chisel to bite and start cutting.
If you want to use microbevels, then regrind the chisels with a primary bevel lower than 30 degrees and use a 30 degree microbevel to get the cutting action you're looking for.
gdblake
That makes the most sense of all! I suppose in a situation where a craftsman would have multiple chisels he'd have one ground at every possible angle and grab a 35 degree for chopping a mortise, maybe his 30 degree for a dovetail or two, and then that 15 degree guy to pare a sliver off to fit ----- retired teacher like me well, just find the best way to grind and use your single set of quality chisels, shut up, and make some shavings. That's really what it's all about isn't it?
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