I sometimes use box joints or “finger joints” on boxes that I make. But I always seem to be really rushed during the glue up since there are so many surfaces to glue. I’ve had my wife help but she is not always available. Using titebond III helps but the open time is still very short. What kind of glue do you all use? And do you try to glue all surfaces of both boards of the joint or just one of the boards finger joints? What I have read is that you should always glue both mating surfaces.
Frank
Replies
Frank,
We've had quite a bit of experience assembling finger jointed drawer boxes. Before outsourcing pre-finished, dovetailed boxes, we were able to cut out, finger joint, assemble and sand a box in about 35 minutes. Of course, I think we took at least 2 or 3 hours in the beginning.
Glue ups must be done quickly and cleanly - you want to minimize or eliminate squeeze out iside, but you want glue on all the faying surfaces. Early on, we learned to use small, plumber's flux brushes by dipping them in a pot of glue and "rolling" the bristles around the pins on both ends of the joint - not "brushing." Before using a new brush, we pulled on the bristles to eliminate loose ones that might get into the joint. We always used Titebond II, and could glue up the box in 7 to 8 minutes, including wiping away squeeze out inside. We'd set up a clamping jig on the bench to press together the joints, pinned the drawer bottom to the bottom edge of the back, then removed the box from the clamps to dry, and went on to the next box.
Like many other woodworking tasks, this one takes practice to build speed and eliminate failure from premature glue setup. We had a few of those, but chalked them up to learning. In the end, our own tests proved to us that modern glues produced joints as strong as dovetails, whose mechanical bonds can be about as strong without glue as with.
Nowadays, I can't compete with outsourcing shops that specialize, using some pretty expensive dovetailing machines, presses, and glue spreading equipment. They're producing finished boxes at less than half the cost of mine, which still needed finishing.
Gary W
gwwoodworking.com
Edited 4/21/2007 2:50 pm by GaryW
Gluing both sides is preferred. For tougher glue-ups, why not go with a glue with a longer open time, like hide glue or white glue? Both are as strong as Titebond, and Elmer's glue is a PVA glue, just like a yellow glue, but with a longer open time.
I've used hide glue for jobs like this, and after listening to Frank Klausz today, all he uses in his shop is Elmer's (white) glue. That's enough to convince me to use it.
Titebond makes a PVA glue with an extended open time . Works great.
Paul
Thanks for all the tips. What is the brand name of the titebond PVA glue with an extended open time?
The answer is almost too easy, Titebond Extended.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Edited 4/22/2007 12:42 pm ET by BruceS
I think Titebond II Extend has a bit longer open time than Titebond Extend.
I like to take a couple of Quik-Grip clamps and clamp the 2 sets of opposing sides together. Then use an acid brush to spread glue on the joints 2 at a time. It cuts the glue spreading time in half. Also using Titebond Extend too.
If you build it he will come.
Great idea! I hadn't thought of that. thanks.
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