Replies

1. 
   ron61 | Jun 14, 2003 05:19am | #1

   Why dont you just make yourself a jig out of scrap for your table saw????????????????

2. 
   BG | Jun 14, 2003 05:42am | #2

   John,

   I can't believe the Leigh would not accomodate a box joint...they can do everything.  However, on the TS with a simple jig and a dado blade set up you can bang them out quickly.  My jig is a block of maple with two 1/4" dados seperated by 1/4" and a 1/4" small piece of wood 1/4".  You slip the 1/4" piece of wood in one of the dados, push the board up against the 1/4" piece and push it through the dado blades...very simple

3. 
   4DThinker | Jun 14, 2003 06:40am | #3

   I've made simple box joint (finger joint) table router jigs for 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" fingers using 1' long metal key stock as a guide. For 3/8" fingers you'll need 3/8" key stock. Make a 90 degree vertical push block (with a handle if you want). The push block gets a 3/8" groove on the bottom so it can slide and track straight over the key stock.  The key stock gets mounted (I screwed mine down) to a base plate.  The base plate gets a 1/2" hole for the router bit, located roughly 3/8" away from the key stock, near the end of it.  You clamp this base plate down to your router table with a 3/8" straight (spiral bits work best) bit poking through the hole.  Set the bit height to barely exceed the thickness of your box boards. Use a small piece of 3/8" key stock to set it barely more than 3/8" from the guide strip.

   Stand your boards on end. Slide the first one against the guide strip, and push it through the blade with the push block.  This will leave the first "finger" with a slot next to it.  Lift it over the guide strip so this slot slides along the strip, then make your next pass.  Keep repeating until you're at the bottom of the  board.  To make the mating end, you'll need to offset the first slot so it is at the top of the end. I use the first board's first finger, hooked over the guide strip, to serve as an initial stop for the second board.  With the bit's position relative to the guide strip set carefully, you can make finger joints so perfect you won't think glue is required. I prefer to leave a little room so I can get some glue in there.  Run a couple of sample boards through first.  If the fingers are too tight in the slots, move the guide closer to the bit.

   I'll try and remember to take a picture of my 3/8" jig tomorrow to post here.

   4DThinker

1. 
   JohnCabot | Jun 15, 2003 12:31am | #6

   Thank you for your comprehensive description of your jig, Very interesting to use key stock.

   Thanks again

   John Cabot

2. 
   fredsmart48 | Jun 16, 2003 06:25am | #11

   http://www.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--

   This is what you are describing I think. 

   You can build that easy.  Not hard and it works fairly well.

   Edited 6/15/2003 11:36:35 PM ET by fredsmart

1. 
   4DThinker | Jun 16, 2003 07:10am | #12

   Yes, my jig is pretty much what that web page shows.  I used a laminated piece or plywood for the base, and metal keystock for the guide strip.  Much cheaper than that high density plastic.  The KEY part, though, is the vertical push block.  Sure, the router guy can hand feed boards standing vertical over that jig, but my students don't have that much control.  We've also made custom push blocks to hold the boards at different angles when students wanted to make  3, 5, 6, or 7 sided boxes.

   I'll be at work tomorrow and try to get a picture.

   4DThinker

1. 
   fredsmart48 | Jun 18, 2003 04:43am | #15

   If I had to buy the high density plastic at retail I would have use ply also.   I found a business that uses the stuff for farm truck box floors and they have a lot of short piece they can't use so the material for the 4 gigs cost less then $5.00 for all of it.   

4. 
   Hempstalk | Jun 14, 2003 09:11pm | #4

   John,

       Leigh make a finger joint templete for your jig.

1. 
   JohnCabot | Jun 15, 2003 12:29am | #5

   Thank you for your help. I will get in touch with leigh about their template.I still would like an expert opinion about the suggestion from the Rockler people on using the dovetail template.

   Thanks again

   John Cabot

1. 
   BG | Jun 15, 2003 02:52am | #7

   John,

   I have a cheapie like the Rockler (if its the one I'm think of...blue, made in Taiwan) and they are designed to use with the collar ie. spacing.  I have not tried box joints usuing it but I believe it would work. 

1. 
   JohnCabot | Jun 15, 2003 03:07am | #8

   Dear BG,

   yes, the blue jig you mention  is the one. I believe I will order one and if does not work I will send it back.

   Thank you

   John Cabot

1. 
   BG | Jun 15, 2003 04:17am | #9

   John,

   Of course, you'll still need to use a wood key (spacer) on the second piece of wood so they will match up.  Maybe I don't undestand the Leigh, but couldn't you do the same thing with it?

2. 
   corners | Jun 15, 2003 07:47am | #10

   Go to the Leigh Jig website and download the instructions for finger joints using the Leigh Dovetail Jig.

3. 
   Lazarus | Jun 16, 2003 05:40pm | #13

   I hate to mention the "H" word here, but I found myself in the same situation as you at one time. I wanted to make box joints using my router but did not want to spend the money on a new Leigh template, if it existed, or any of the other ones out there. I did happen to find the solution at, of all places, Harbor Freight. For $36 I bought a dovetail jig, still questions as to how well it would do dovetails, and was able to whip out a massive amount of box joints with the jig straight out of the box. It is even blue like the Rockler.

   The best thing is you can buy different templates for different sized joints for a pretty small price if you have need in the future. I got away with the jig, and have bought two different sized templates since, all for under a hundred bucks.LazarusRemeber, "Wisdom is the toughest of teachers! She gives the test first and the lesson after."

5. 
   Andrew | Jun 17, 2003 05:35pm | #14

   John, I also have a leigh dovetail jig, and while I haven't tried this yet, I see no reason why it won't work. My idea is to use the regular guide fingers used for the tails to cut finger joints. The only thing to do is figure out the math. You need to determine the proper spacing between the guide fingers such that the router will cut a properly sized joint. the only limitation is that you may not have standard size finger joints, but they would be adjustable in size beyond a certain minimum. then you would use a special spacer to offset the second board. Does this make sense to you? Personally I think your better off making a jig for the TS unless your working with lager pieces that would be better off stationary.

   Hope this helps

   Andrew