I think there was a tool review or article in FWW on nailer. Does anyone recall seeing the article? If so what issue?
I am new to knots. I am an avid family professional wood worker. I keep busy as any professional making furniture for my family.
I am disabled and am only able to work a couple of hours a day.
Lynn
Replies
I think it was the most recent issue - or just one back. Pretty sure it was one back. Great article on the brad nailers at the perfect time. Just bought me the PC. Nice to make an informed decision once in a while. . .
It did a wonderful job of comparing things you'd expect (like power), as well as things that only an experienced user would know (Safety mech behind or in front of tip, tooless jam clearing)
Thanks.
I was thinking of an article that delt with whether a nailer was necessary in a small shop. A case can be made for every tool e.g. Norm Abrams. I am more interested in Mike Dunbars approach and Tage Frid. I have limited imcome. I have already purchase many tools I do not use and have found worthless e.g. biscuits. I started listening to the people at Homestead Heritage and Mkie Dunbar and now I can afford an d enjoy woodworking. I only use the router when I absoutley have to.
I guess to restate my question. Are bradnailer necessary for small shops. I can see how they can help especially when there is one old cout with only two hands.
Does anyone know if it is feasible to use a brad nailer without having a noisy compressor? There is a belt driven puma compressor offered by a local chain the is 2hp and 6gal. It is 4.6 and 135 ppsi.
Harbor Freight sells one for $20. I've had mine for two years with no problems. It doesn't have the bells and whistles of a PC, but at 10% of the cost... I lent it to my friend who paneled his basement with 1X6 bead board using my 14 gallon air tank instead of a compressor. Depending on how far the nearest gas station is, this may or may not be practical for you.
I don't think a brad nailer is necessary for small shops, unless you are doing a lot of brad nailing already. All it does is make it easier to tack things into place with brads; you could do this with a hammer, it's just easier with a brad nailer. I have one, and use it rarely, but it's awful nice for those times when I'm putting brads into corners where a hammer doesn't fit. It's also a lot faster, of course.
How much time do you currently spend nailing brads? That will help you decide whether the nailer is worth it or not.
You don't need that much air for a brad nailer; the smallest compressor will do fine, I think. "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
Lynn,
Sounds to me like you already answered your question. Can it be usefull....yes, Will it be usefull to you?.... If you use it. For example you didn't find the buscuit joiner usefull, I use it on every project.
Mike
FWW issue #168, pp. 74-79
Lynn.. you can get the nailer (brad or finish) and the compressor as a combo from Sears for around $200.
I find the brad nailer very convenient because if you make alot of casework as I do.. you can avoid clamp ups in most cases by joining with rabbets and dados.. squaring up with a speed square (ala Norm) and assembling with glue and brads.
I've built many cabs, desks and tool stands using this method with nary a clamp up.
I bought both nailers with compressors from Sears and have been very well pleased with them.
I love my brad nailer, and now count it among the essential tools.
I am a lousy carpenter. Bend a lot of nails. When I am making furniture, it is great to be able to balance a glue block exactly where I want it and with one trigger pull, tack it in place. I could not do that at all with hammer and brads - by the time I got the nail pounded in, everything would be out of alignment, or the glue would be set. Likewise I can now toe nail a case (like Norm) without destroying the sheet goods.
I don't use a huge number of brads, so you could say it isn't necessary, but for someone who often works in the shop alone, it is a great help.
I use my 18 gauge Brad nailer a lot, rarely use the 15 gauge finish nailer in the shop. But the 18 gauge is too light for fixing up things around the house, like fixing the wooden fence or replacing trim boards.
The air volume required is very small - I even wish I had a smaller compressor (tank) so it wouldn't take to long to build up pressure.
________________________
Charlie Plesums Austin, Texas
http://www.plesums.com/wood
lynn I have two nailers and a stapler and use all three a lot. The stapler comes in handy for thin plywood and luan board. My nailers are 18 and 16 guage. The 18 will shoot brads up to 1 1/4 inch long and the 16 up to 2 1/2 inch long. Pay close attention to where your fingers are for the brads sometimes follow the grain and will bypass a knot and come through the side of the wood and look like you've shot a fishhook into it instead of a brad. This happens when you are nailing close to the edge of the board. I haven't figured out how to deal with this to keep it from happening. I just keep the side cutters handy. I usually -glue-clamp-nail- then I can take the clamps off right away. Used with glue the brads are great. I have been using my nailers for about three years and I seldem nail anything with a hammer in the sizes mentioned above anymore.
Hope this helps BT
bt excuse me butting in.If you look at the chisel tip of a brad and align the tip across the width of a narrow piece of wood it is less likley to deflect to the sides.It will deflect along the length of the lumberand not break out.
I've recently bought an 18 guage nailer having read that article and i can see its uses, but does anyone have any tips on how to tell accurately where the nail is going to come out of the nailer. I know you can have a good guess, but sometimes a bit of accuracy is important, thanks Nic
Mine has a little line on the front and side of the guard that must be pushed against the wood. The line is not large or obvious, but once I found it, it is helpful. Since the nail always comes out the same place, I bet you could scratch a line if yours doesn't have it.________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
Personally I have just got used to my own tools.But I have always made it a priority when buying new, to pick tools with a exposed tip.Thats why I hang on to my obselete Mustang brad guns,though they lack punch and parts are getting scarce.
I have a hard time handling brads. I can hardly see them and I fumble with small parts. I bought a Porter Cable nailer, the smallest one they make. You can pick one up brand new for about $89. It fires wire nails from 5/8"-11/4" in size.While I don't use it constantly, it sure comes in handy when I do. I use it for tacking glued edging on plywood, moulding, etc. Saves a ton of time, and just makes life a little easier.
Herm
I rarely use nails in my furniture, but my little brad nailer ususally makes it out of the tool rack once a day. Handy for jig making, temporarily tacking parts together, etc. It definetly has a place in my shop even if I don't use it on the furniture I make.
Scott
Hi Lynn To answer your question about noisy compressors, I have run an 18 gauge brad nailer on a tank of compressed air. I do a lot of small 'stuff' and don't need a compressor. I use the type the garages keep on their tow trucks for fixing flats. I go to the local garage and fill it with air at 125 PSI. (You can't do it at the 'quarter-in-the-slot air pumps.) It lasts a week or two depending on how much work I've got to do.
SawdustSteve
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