Replies

1. 
   Michael | Sep 30, 2005 02:46am | #1

   Depends on the finish that is currently on the piece.

   I've used a number of different strippers depending on the application and material to be removed.  Most are pretty nasty, so I recommend great ventilation and gloves at a minimum.  Some, a respirator is required.

   I find most citrus strippers are fairly easy to work with, just not as aggressive as some.  And my favorite 'heavy duty' one is Zip Strip sold at Sears in a bumble bee looking container (black and yellow).  It'll remove 30 yrs of paint in a single application... but beware, that stuff is NASTY and I wear a respirator when I have to bring out this one.

   Let us know what you believe the material you're removing is and we can probably make a bit better recommendation based on experience.

   Cheers,

   michael

1. 
   gj13 | Sep 30, 2005 04:16am | #3

   Thanks for the advice. I don't know what the finish is. It's probably over 100 years old. It's very thin, peeled, cracked, and I might be able to get most of it off with a little sanding. Whatever I use, I'll be doing it outside on my deck, so ventilation won't be much of a problem.

2. 
   trialnut | Sep 30, 2005 03:03am | #2

   I would recommend that after you have it stripped and are ready to paint, give it a coat or two of shellac before painting. That way if someone in the future wants to restore it to original it will be easier to do. Non pigmented sanding sealer would also work.

   The Professional Termite

1. 
   gj13 | Sep 30, 2005 04:20am | #4

   Good idea about the shellac. I'll do that just in case, but I doubt anyone will want to restore it. Shellac will probably also help the paint go on a little better. I asked an antiques dealer about its value and he scoffed at it. Seems like these old machines are a worth very little unless they're in pristine condition.
   Thanks.

3. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 30, 2005 04:42am | #5

   The best (fastest, most agressive) have methylene choride (look on the label). And the ones with the most MC are rated "nonflammable".

   But these are also the nastiest -- so wear a respirator, long sleeves, gloves, and safety glasses (if you don't already wear glassses).

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   gj13 | Sep 30, 2005 07:47pm | #6

   O.k.

   Sanding is looking more and more appealing.  I'll sand as much as possible and use as little of the stripper as necessary. 

1. 
   Dave45 | Oct 02, 2005 05:16pm | #20

   If the woodwork has much detail, sanding will round the edges and destroy the "crispness" of the patterns.  If this isn't a concern, go for it but if you want to preserve the detail, dipping is probably a better option.

4. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 01, 2005 12:14am | #7

   I'm going to be stripping the finish from my great-grandmother's old Singer sewing machine stand (the kind with the treadle) then painting it white and turning it into a desk for my daughter.

   Geeeeee Get it fixed and paint it as it was.. A Classic.. Daughter will have fun seein' how fast that needle will go! I did as a kid!

1. 
   gj13 | Oct 01, 2005 01:27am | #8

   Oh, yeah. We played with that thing all the time! I've thought about restoring it, but other people are dead set on turning it into a desk. And the truth is, it's spent many years gathering dust. I'm going to keep the sewing machine, and maybe someday, when no one is looking, ;) I'll do what I can to restore it.

5. 
   Yogi | Oct 01, 2005 07:49am | #9

   Good question, I'll be interested to see what turns up-  I initiated a thread like this some time back and wound up trying MC, the citrus jobs, one spray stripper-  I wrapped the pieces in plastic wrap, put 'em in a box with a lamp over them to make sure it was all warm enough, the whole banana-  I couldn't for the life of me get a stripper to "strip" worth a darn-  Hope the secret leaks out in some replies to your question-   

1. 
   Gretchen | Oct 01, 2005 04:18pm | #10

   First of all, it is probably a shellac finish. Methylene chloride for shellac removal is overkill. See if it softens with denatured alcohol. If so use that  to strip the finish.  DO NOT sand the finish off.Gretchen

2. 
   Gretchen | Oct 01, 2005 04:20pm | #11

   If you couldn't get the stripper to work, you might need more patience. It has to stay on (and citrus strippers are a waste of time and money), stay wet, and work in smallish areas so that all this can be accomplished.  You can't strip an entire piece at one time.Gretchen

1. 
   Yogi | Oct 01, 2005 06:41pm | #12

   <<<"...You can't strip an entire piece at one time...">>>  How large or small an "entire" piece?

   <<<"...work in smallish areas...">>>  How many square inches is that?

   Not being picky, Gretchen, but "entire" and "smallish" are nebulous terms-  Two turned pieces I eventually scraped & sanded were each all of maybe 16" long by a couple inches-  I appreciate your willingness to be helpful- 

1. 
   Gretchen | Oct 02, 2005 04:46pm | #18

   Sorry Yogi, I was thinking in terms of furniture. Then I will suggest you apply the "scrub" by using coarse steel wool.  If this will not strip, then you may have milk paint (which I doubt) or a type of conversion finish.Gretchen

2. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 02, 2005 05:04pm | #19

   (and citrus strippers are a waste of time and money) NOT SO.. Well, I wrap in cheese cloth and keep it wet for as long as it takes.. At least citrus smell OK!

1. 
   Gretchen | Oct 02, 2005 06:49pm | #21

   I am glad for whatever works for whoever is using it.  For many layers of paint, MC is what works best for me.  Lesser strippers don't.Gretchen

2. 
   scooter1 | Oct 03, 2005 06:58pm | #23

   I like Metheylene Cloride.
   Regards, Scooter"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

3. 
   Paul_Snyder | Oct 02, 2005 02:42am | #13

   Any idea what the coating is/was you were trying to strip? If it's milk paint, regular paint & varnish remover won't remove it. MC stripper will remove most coatings. If it doesn't work at first, try some heavy scratch sanding with 80 grit before laying on a thick coat of the stripper. If that doesn't work, you can try an alkali fortified MC stripper.Stripping Tips - http://www.refinishwizard.com/stripping01.htmPaulfinishwiz.com

1. 
   Yogi | Oct 02, 2005 03:33am | #16

   Paul-  Thanks for the tip re scratching with 80 grit first-  Also for the link-  It all helps-  Much obliged-

6. 
   FastEddie1 | Oct 02, 2005 02:57am | #14

   I'm not sure just how much finish you need to remove, but I would reccomend a product called Peel-Away.  It is advertised that it will remove 30 coats of paint with one application.  I can't vouch for that, but I can say that for me it took 5 very thick coats from an oak dining set I restored.  The key is not to rush it, let it do the work.  I would coat a chair in the evening, then the next day scrape the paint off.  It is non toxic, no need to worry about the fumes, if it gets on your skin, it won't burn.  I use latex gloves only cause I hate paint on my gorgeous skin!  OMAL.  You should be able to find it in one of your local paint supply stores.  Our local Home Dummies carried it for a while, but when I needed some a few weeks back they had none.  Good luck!

   F E

   I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

1. 
   Yogi | Oct 02, 2005 03:26am | #15

   Fast Eddie-  Does Peel-Away remove clear coats too?  Thanks-

   Edited 10/1/2005 8:31 pm ET by Yogi

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Oct 02, 2005 04:08pm | #17

   Yogi,

   I think so, but I have not tried that yet.

    

   F EI'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

7. 
   Davie | Oct 03, 2005 03:46am | #22

   Might be worth checking if the finish is shellac.  If it is denatured alcohol will remove the finish.