Branding Irons – which type/one is best?
Ricks503
| Posted in General Discussion on
| 920.1 | |
| I am thinking of buying a branding iron to mark my work. I am thinking I might like somewhere between 1 and 3 differnat designs based on the product or size of the project. What type of branding irons are out there? Do any allow for changeable heads? Which ones are good and which ones should I avoid? |
1 – measure the board twice, 2 – cut it once, 3 – measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 – get a new board and go back to step 1
Replies
No advice but have return privileges even though personalized if defective. Mine looks great but when plugged in (110 v) and heated, it warps across the face. Therefore to get a good signature, one must very slightly roll it from side to side to get an even stencil.
These guys did their best for me: http://www.brandnew.net/
Another option is a wood burning set-up, like this one:
http://www.qsupply69.bizland.com/store/page36.html
I like the idea of actually writing on the piece, including a date, a hand-drawn logo, etc.
I just never really liked the idea of a branding iron that said "Handcrafted by John Schmuck".
********************************************************
"I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there."
-- Herb Caen (1916-1997)
If it was an occasional piece, I agree. However, I am looking at getting into some small piece production work part time and will be producing 30-40 pieces a week evenings and one weekend day (have to give the family some time). So branding is a more time efficient and consistent.
I may use a wood burner to put on a serial number but that would be all.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
"branding is a more time efficient and consistent. "
Rick,
I hope you're not too disappointed.
Before it was (one of several tools in a bag) stolen from my car, I had used my personalized electric branding iron for about three years. It was anything but consistent or fast.
I found that to achieve consistently acceptable results, I had to perform a few test burns on a piece of the same species, timing each burn to determine the optimal period of contact. Predictably, hardwood veneer ply burned differently than solid hardwood or softwood. What I ended up doing most of the time to achieve a legible imprint was burn until a charred halo surrounded the lettering, and then sand or scrape off the surface char - otherwise, the lettering would sometimes be inconsistent (with some letters shallower and lighter than others) and difficult to read. It can take more than a minute to brand a legible imprint.
After my branding iron was stolen, I had no desire to replace it. I now sign my pieces in indelible ink.
Edited to add: I am now considering pre-pasted labels (like those found inside handmade violins) that I can sign and date, perhaps including information about species used, finishing methods, etc.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Edited 8/1/2005 1:28 pm ET by jazzdogg
Branding is anything but time efficent or consistent. Use a wood burner or a pen.
knothole
Have any of you guys tried a rubber stamp with indelible ink?
FWIW Rick I have two, both of which were given to me as gifts. The one I like best has my signature on it. Both are heated with an external source, I use a LP torch, and heat up in about 60 seconds. I should point out that I don't do production runs but one of a kinds and it's my avocation so time spent is not that big a deal to me. All my customers and friends look for the mark when I deliver so they seem to like it. Just my 2 cents, your mileage may vary.
Kell
This question reminds me of that occaisional thread titled "tool you wish you hadn't bought".
I got one as a gift and would give it to anyone that wanted it. It is inconsistent and gives my work that unique "Made in Taiwan" look.
I make a hundred of one item as a time..and sign each one on the bottom. I thought I'd like to brand them..not.
Now I laquer the bottom or back of a piece, sign it with a sharpie, dry-spray a coat or to of lacquer (so the Sharpie doesn't run or smear" and then finish like everything else. It's fast, it works and makes my stuff look like art vs. like anyone could do it!
Good luck!
lp
I see a number of people use that technique. How water resistant is it. I am looking at making cutting boards and willonly use a mineral oil finish. I need something that will go on the wood, have mineral oil on top and then be subject to frequent washing. Seems like a sharpie would not last. That means either a brass plaque on the edge or a brand, and with the washing, I have concerns about the brass plaque option.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Hi Rick,
You're absolutely correct that the Sharpie method wouldn't take that kind of wear and certainly not with an oil finish.
Maybe you have a blacksmith make you a cool brand...sort of like Stickley's Compass....something simple and more elgant looking than the cheap-looking branding irons.
Good luck!lp
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled