Replies

1. 
   roc | Mar 26, 2012 09:57pm | #1

   : |

   :  

2. 
   swenson | Mar 27, 2012 02:01am | #2

   Cut the breadboard ends so that they are proud of the top and then sand them down to fit, or are the breadboard ends themselves made of plywood?  I don't get it.  If the breadboard ends are to hide the plywood ends, what is on the plywood sides?  If the breadboard ends work like regular breadboard ends do you expect the plywood to expand across its width or something?  Now see what you did?  You made roc make a funny face on his brief post.

3. 
   swenson | Mar 27, 2012 10:30am | #3

   It looks like you are a new member here and I didn't mean to be snide about the plywood, but I'm having trouble picturing what you are trying to do.  If the breadboard end is not riding on tennons and enlongated holes with pegs, can't you just plane it and sand it and try the fit 'till it is right before you glue it on, masking for squeeze out first?

4. 
   bones | Mar 27, 2012 11:25am | #4

   breadboar ends flush with ply

   If I understand you basically wanting to put banding around plywood.  Breadboards generally are for solid panel construction to allow for expansion and contraction of the large panel which won't occur in  ply.  If you want to make the joining surfaces banding and ply meet flush as possible then plane as close as you can then band the ply and use a bottom bearing flush trim bit and use the ply as the bearing surface that will get it dang near perfect.   I might reccomend going to a good cabinet shop supplier for the ply.  Big box stuff is crap and will delam and bubble on you in short order.   Good luck. 

5. 
   roc | Mar 27, 2012 04:40pm | #5

   ; )

    >Now see what you did?  You made roc make a funny face on his brief post.<

   I was trying the Sid method and wait and see and think about it.

   I was holding my tung.

   It almost slipped out there at the end but I bit it.

   OK here goes :

   I was getting all dreamy about a router with a big handle on the one side and a foot plate on the bottom of the router that runs on the top of the ply but open on the side for the "breadboard" end and all that but . . .

   since I don't even own a router like that it seemed kind of chicken sht of me to start recommending stuff I don't have or use.

   aaaannnnnd I had a similar idea involving a big honkin' #7 jointer plane but was pretty sure the person didn't want to buy a five hundred dollar hand plane for this. (some little elf like voice told me he doesn't have one already) (I could be wrong ).

   soooo here goes for real this time :

   1.  Use solid wood for tables.

   2.  Ignoring #1 then you may want to get the big honkin' #7 or #8 hand plane and try this : stick a few layers of slick box tape to the bottom of the hand plane sole.  You may even want to start with playing cards and some double back tape.

   Place one spacer/card behind the blade's opening far enough to still reach across the bread board end; the second spacer right at the most tail end part of the plane.

   This will raise the plane up a bit to clear the ply surface and still have the blade protruding fron the bottom of the plane.

   Plane the bread board end with it on the table until the plane stops cutting.  That means the amount of bread board end above the ply is less than the thickness of a playing card.  Then ever so slightly advance the blade and plane the ends flush with the ply.  Or , God forbid. . . sand it to flush.

   3.  Reconsider #1.

   PS: planing across the grain or diagonal across the grain of the bread board end means you may get some wood chipping off the outer edge of these boards.  You may want to wait to do the final trimming until after you plane the bread boards flush.

6. 
   swannyww | Mar 28, 2012 12:28pm | #6

   I use masking tape on the veneer side to protect it and get your ends very exact so you'll do little sanding to even them out.  Hand sanding works best and keep sandpaper on the ends and let the tape protect the veneer until the very end when you are fine sanding.