I do not work with sheet goods often but would like a better system than my shop built guide/old Skil circular saw. Do not want to spend $600+ on a plunge track saw. Any good ideas?
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Replies
Whats the problem with the skil saw? I have a sawstop slider at work and use it regularly. I still often break down sheet goods with a cordless circular saw just to make it easier to handle on my own. Its not as accurate and there is some wastage but its pretty quick and easy breakdown.
If you dont want to use the skil saw or pony up for a different tool why not make a sheet good support for your table saw, a couple of table saw height saw horses to support sheet goods is pretty quick and doesn't take up much space.
I break down sheet goods with a cordless circular saw in the garage, or right off my tailgate. I cut them slightly oversize, then rip to final width on my shops table saw. I usually rip the cut edge first, using the factory edge against the fence, then spin it to trim the factory edge off to final width.
There's no easy solution for plywood. A 4x8 sheet of 18mm is heavy and awkward to handle, especially if you're alone. The normal table saw - even a cabinet saw - does not have enough table to make accurate cutting easy. So you have to decide if you want to build/buy extra table space to make cutting less difficult. My answer is no, I don't. I use a saw guide and circular saw to make initial cuts and then use my table saw for final cuts. Sometimes I utilize Home Depot's panel saw for a couple cuts.
I keep a 4' piece of maple as an edge guide for cross-cutting with a circular saw. And, generally speaking, I don't use many 8' lengths of plywood. When I do, I use a chalk box and try to stay on the line. Table saws are for fine tuning.
Mikaol
There some good ole Skil circular saws but mine is not :-). Good idea on some saw horses to help wrestle onto my Sawstop.
Thanks. Like John-C2's idea of a primary cut using factory edge and a secondary once flipped. Often the sheets goods are more carpentary type projects so I think I will upgrade the circular saw to a nice Makita and get a guide. I already have a nice Sawstop and a plunge track saw seems like a foolish investment for me.
Yes, I have a track saw, but for years I used a circ saw and a guide. The problem is paying attention and being sure you aren't skewing the blade. Not always easy to do when you're reaching across 4'.
There are lots of DIY set ups that involve making a track. I think this is a better way to go rather than just butting plate up against straight edge.
Get a good blade, too. I recommend a Diablo fine cut I think its 40 or 60 tooth.
Check out Bora or Kreg. They have accessories to make your circular Skil saw into a track saw at a reasonable cost. That and a decent blade and you're in business. A straight edge and a couple of clamps work but as mentioned earlier there is a tendency to wonder off track at times especially on longer cuts.
Good luck.
I use the Kreg Accu-Cut (less than $100) and it works really well for sheet goods. I put the plywood sheet on top of a 2" thick piece of Styrofoam insulation on the floor. I just cut about 1/4" into the insulation, so its reusable many times. Once the pieces are more manageable, I put them in the SawStop.
While I personally use a track saw to breakdown sheet goods there is a option to use a tilting table to bring large sheets directly to your table saw. Plans are available on FW for just such a table or they can be purchased Rocker has this example.
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-material-mate-panel-cart-and-shop-stand
If you work alone as I usually do such a cart has a lot of appeal when it comes to moving large sheets.
I use a nice straight-edge clamp to reduce boards to manageable sizes.
The trick is to make a gauge that makes the offset from your line easy to create - mark your line and use the gauge to offset the straight edge. With care this is as good as it needs to be.
For long cuts I use a 5 inch wide bit of 18mm ply as the guide (but use a couple of pin nails in the middle to prevent bowing.
I've been breaking down sheets using a circular saw and a guide for decades. Never having had a huge shop to work out of, many times working on the job site, etc. there wasn't another option. I've recently moved into a smallish shop, but went from jobsite work to almost exclusively shop work.
I still break things down outside the shop on some saw horses, with 2x4's and sometimes scrap OSB or foam insulation to support the sheet better.
I built a good guide out of MDF for the base, aluminum u-channel for the saw plate to ride on, and then threw some QS red oak into the u-channel to stiffen it up a hair and make it look pretty (it also helps hold screws to keep the channel in place). I used a dado blade to put a shallow groove in the MDF that the aluminum fits snugly into as well.
I use a pair of small Bessie F-style clamps and keep the guide on the workpiece, keeping the cut off exposed (whenever possible) so i don't have to worry about calculating for the blade.
It's quick and only takes minor thought and planning to break down sheets into manageable chunks that I can run on the table saw without any undue danger to my digits. Using a good finish blade, and being accurate with my measuring and clamping, I have built hundred and hundreds of things without ever having to refine the guided cuts.
For fine furniture stuff, I don't even trust my table saw to be accurate enough, things get hand planed, etc to final size... So, I don't see any disadvantage to the guide/circular saw method.
Oh, I also use a good saw and blade all the time. I used a Ridgid worm drive for years, now I use a Dewalt 'worm drive style' cordless. I haven't had a crappy circular saw in 30 years or so, but I've been in the trades for 37 or so years.
@FiveBirdsCustom now you have created a whole new dilemma. Corded vs. Cordless-Ha. I looked at boughten tracks and was not overly impressed.
Think I will make my own track and outfit with a new circular saw. The worm drives seem really nice and stable but HEAVY. Maybe for the few times a year I use it that would not be a problem... especially given I am 10’ outside the shop vs. hanging from a rafter.
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