Hello all,
I did a search on wax to see what was out here on wax and to my dismay found that most of the input suggested only using Briwax on
old pieces for restoration. Of course, just days before I went and
bought some Briwax instead of the cheaper Minwax or Johnson’s. I have some new wall paneling that I have put milk paint over and am planning to put a wax finish over it.
So, finally my question – Is it alright if I go ahead and use the
Briwax? Yes, I’ll assume that it may not look as good as it could, but would it be OK if in a couple months I followup with a coat of
Minwax or Johnson’s? I just can’t bring myself to go out and buy
another thing of wax. Plus, its an hour drive.
Tips are appreciated.
Matt
Replies
The problem with using Briwax on newly-finished woodwork is that it has a solvent in it that may affect the finish (sorry, can't brain-fetch the name this morning). The question being, will it affect new milk-paint? I don't know. Of definite importance is what type of "milk paint" did you use. Is it the real stuff from the Old Fashioned Milk Paint Co.???? If so, I would suggestion you call them and get their advice. If you used a knock-off paint, hard to know.
Obviously, you're not thrilled about having to travel and buy a new can of wax, but that must be balanced against the possibility of ruining the hard work you've already done. It could very well be that the milk paint will be impervious to the solvent in Briwax if it's allowed to cure for awhile.
Let us know what paint you used.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Briwax contains toluene which will somewhat compromise an uncured clear finish. It also makes it an excellent cleaner for well cured finishes or antique furniture as it dissolves dirt and grime.
I am wondering why you want to wax milk paint. If you are looking for a bit of a sheen it will have to be renewed from time to time. I also, as a housewife, think it will pick up dust. If it is sheen you are after you could topcoat with a satin varnish. That will also give a surface that will be less dirt and dust prone as milk paint is a rough finish.
Edited 7/4/2003 10:57:47 AM ET by GRETCHEN50
Ditto the suggestion of going with a varnish or something else to acheive the sheen.
Regards,
Kevin
Wax is very often used over milkpaint. If it's buffed well, to a hard finish, dust isn't really a problem. I love wax over milkpaint myse'f.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Folks,
I used the real milk paint (milk paint co.).
As to why wax? Long story, but lets just say that I just want to
get this project finished, plus I too thought it would look nice
over the milk paint. Dust? This is a vertical surface and all
other vertical surfaces in my house don't pick up dust too well.
Its my office, so as for scuffs, I'm not worried about. Ditto
with having to redo it periodically because it won't see any
wear.
I'll check with the milk paint co. I have done a test spot, and
as best I can tell, it seems to look OK. It doesn't appear to be
affecting the paint at all, just giving it a sheen/patina.
Thanks for the input, I do appreciate it. Maybe over the weekend
I can find a place that has the other brand waxes just in case
I'll need them. So far nobody local seems to have any wax, period.
Matt
As I said, I don't think there is a chance the Briwax will hurt it. The stuff is dynamite proof. Otherwise we would all be using toluene to strip milk paint--if we did that any more!!! Lessons learned the hard way-- but that pine was SO pretty under that blue paint!! ARRGGGHHH!!!Gretchen
Straight from the Milk Paint site...
How can I remove Milk Paint?
Most modern strippers won't touch Milk Paint. There is a Behlen Masters product, however - P.D.E. paint remover that will remove it. It comes in one pound cans of powder that you mix with water to form a paste. It is the only method of removing milk paint that we know of other than alot of elbow grease and sanding. You can order Behlen's P.D.E. through us or you may be able to find it locally through a distributor who carries Behlen products.
Note: Removing old Milk Paint from an authentic antique may decrease it's value!
Hope this helps!
RR
I agree with Gretchen that the Briwax probably won't hurt the milkpaint, since you're using "real" milkpaint. The reason I asked specifically in my first post was because the other so-called milk paints are, for the most part, not patterned after the real stuff -- only made to imitate, and very well might react to a solvent.
One other point, if anyone in your family is sensitive to things like toluene, that's a reason to use a different wax. One of my employees a few years ago was allergic to most solvents, and she couldn't get near Briwax without having asthma problems.
Hope you'll be able to finish up quickly and be done with it, as is your desire!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Good point about the solvents. If you use it be sure to open all the windows and doors for ventilation while applying.Gretchen
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