Replies

1. 
   BG | Apr 06, 2009 08:11pm | #1

   arkvet,

   Assuming you can't grab it with a pliers, two possible solutions: buy a reverse screw tool, either individually or as a set at local hardware or Woodcraft and the like, or, drill a larger hole (1/4"-3/8") down to the broken screw, dig around screw till you can grab it with pliers and then fill hole with a piece of dowel and a bit of glue. maybe there are some other ideas...

1. 
   arkvet | Apr 06, 2009 10:41pm | #4

   BG  thanks for the response I ordered an extraction tool from woodcraft.It is a round hollow bit with teeth to surround the broken shaft.Thanks again  arkvet

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Apr 06, 2009 09:12pm | #2

   When faced with this problem, I usually head to the hardware store and pick up a split roll pin that's just a tad smaller ID than the screw shank. Then open up the pin a bit with a screwdriver so it just fits over the screw shank and file off one corner so that, when chucked into a drill running counterclockwise, the unfiled side acts as a tooth to cut into the wood. You can simply drill down the screw hole and the pin will surround and grab the screw, extracting it. (Harder to explain than do.)

   You'll be left with a bit of a patch job. If you're lucky, the head of the replacement screw will cover it. If not, drill and plug.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   arkvet | Apr 06, 2009 10:45pm | #5

   Mike thanks for the idea. I ordered an extraction device .I'm building a large mechanical toy and luckily these screws were to have plugs over them anyway.I can go down the 3/8counter bore hole and plug it with a dowel as suggested by the good people who responded. Thanks arkvet

3. 
   Lataxe | Apr 06, 2009 09:59pm | #3

   Ark,

   There are tools for the job:

   http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pricing=INC&pf_id=23106&name=Screw+remover&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0&cid=TVQOKT3O493BS3YOXUU5NXLMTFX3VNO3

   http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pricing=INC&pf_id=576720&name=Screw+remover&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0&cid=TVQOKT3O493BS3YOXUU5NXLMTFX3VNO3

   http://www.axminster.co.uk/pricing/INC/cid/TVQOKT3O493BS3YOXUU5NXLMTFX3VNO3/product-Axminster-Cobalt-Drill-and-Easy-Out-Set-462398.htm

   If necessary you may use a core drill larger than the screw diameter to take out a "plug" containing the broken screw.  You then fill the hole with a plug having matching grain, which plug you make with a plug-cutter. 

   If you can get one of those extractor bits to work, this is generally a better option as the new replacement screw will replace the broken one.

   Snapped screws are usually caused by insufficient pilot hole, lack of lubrication on the screw threads (wax is good); too much torque from the driver (use the torque-limiting clutch if you screw with an electric drill).

   Lataxe

1. 
   arkvet | Apr 06, 2009 10:47pm | #6

   lataxe thanks for your suggestions The problem looks fixable now arkvet

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 07, 2009 07:02am | #7

   You've mentioned some important causes of snapped screws, but, at least on this side of the pond, another major cause of snapped screws is buying them from the "Big Box" stores.  Sometimes I think they make them from pot metal. 

4. 
   Dave45 | Apr 07, 2009 04:49pm | #8

   If you've been using drywall screws (the black ones with the skinny shank), lock them up somewhere and throw away the key. After breaking more than my share of them, I went to deck screws and haven't broken one since.

   Another "good practice" with any screw is to set the clutch on your cordless drill to break away just as the screw head snugs down.

1. 
   oldusty | Apr 07, 2009 05:05pm | #9

     Dave , I get mine from my cabinet hardware supplier but " Fastap " type of construction screws are the best of the best .Rarely do I break a screw anymore. Self tapping and little nibs under the head that automatically countersinks .

           regards   dusty

1. 
   nazard | Apr 07, 2009 05:28pm | #10

   Dusty,

   I'll add a big +1 for "Fastap" screws.  A bit pricey, but very good fasteners.

2. 
   Dave45 | Apr 07, 2009 07:08pm | #11

   I'll have to check those out although the deck screws usually work fine............and I'm known far and wide as a cheapskate. - lol

5. 
   forrestb | Apr 14, 2009 04:46am | #12

   Good advice given. I would double check the pilot hole dia (McFeely's provides good tables for this) but don't forget to size the top of the hole for the unthreaded upper portion of the screw. This is particularly important with brass. Use your power tool to get the screw almost seated then revert to the good old hand tool to seat the screw. Use beeswax for the lubricant on the brass screw. You can always pre-thread the hole with a steel screw - almost to the bottom - and then use the brass screw to finish the thread.