Replies

1. 
   IanC | Aug 19, 2003 02:16am | #1

   Erich,  Yes, I think you need to deepen the mortises but be very careful.  If you go too deep the lid will bind at the back and leave a gap at the front.  It's a very fine line and a slight gap at the back is perfectly acceptable.  If you go too deep, you're in to placing  shims under the leaves and I know you'd prefer not to do that. 

   Ian

1. 
   erich | Aug 19, 2003 05:20pm | #2

   Ian,

        Thanks for your response.  I really agree with your assesment.  I double checked by placing the lid on the box and then sliding the hinge in the mortise opening from the back and sure enough as it goes in the back of the lid lifts up.  I'm not thrilled with the idea of deepening the mortise, it seems it should be slanted so as to be deeper towards the back.  I'm kind of wishing BRUSSO would at least mention this in their jig instructions, I've got an e-mail in to them so we'll see. 

        Do you mount these with the jig or with-out.  If you don't use it do you have any tips?  Thanks again Ian and anybody else who cares to chime in.

   Erich 

1. 
   IanC | Aug 19, 2003 11:47pm | #3

   Erich,  Let's say there is a 1/16th" between the leaves when they are parallel.  You have to absorb that amount somewhere or at least most of it.  You can absorb it all in the lid or all of it in the base or split the difference.  I like to split the difference but if you take it all out of the lid you do get a nice flush appearance in the base which is more noticeable.  I don't see any advantage to slanting it (visually) and you may bind it at the back.  I'd be interested to hear what Brusso has to say.   I haven't used their template, and rarely use a router for small hinges because I find hand chisels about as fast if you count setup time and I'm less likely to make a major mistake.  I clear the space for the lid support on the drill press.

   Ian

1. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 20, 2003 06:29am | #4

   Erich, Ian is correct The hinges should be mortised to lie paralell (Not slanted)

   The best quality brass hinges made in England (But alas, not here anymore), are tapered and won't show a gap when lid is opened.

   They require a slanted mortise to acheive a more professional 'look'. You should mortise your hinges equally on lid and box.

   Whenever I endeaver to rout out small hinge mortises, I frequently make a 'mockup' using two scrap pieces of wood. After attaching a sample hinge, I close the two sections to check for the gap.

   It should be no wider than the thickness of a business card. Once  you arrive at the correct setting, save the mockup for later reference. Stein.

1. 
   erich | Aug 20, 2003 05:57pm | #5

   Ian and Stein,

        Thanks much for the continued help, I've never thought so much about hinges before.  I've got renewed respect for the craftsman who make quality hinges look great.  It's been fairly conceptual thinking and I appreciate being able to bounce my thoughts off you both.

        Just to re-cap.  Hinge leafs, when closed, should be parallel.  So, like you said Ian, I have to account for the greatest thickness somewhere, either all on the box or lid, or a little of both.  Let's assume I choose the split-the-difference technique, the leafs would then not necessarily be flush with the edge of the box/lid?  They'd be inset somewhat at the thinner end?  It would seem to follow then that, in the future, should I elect to use the BRUSSO jig/router I'd set the depth of cut just shy of half the thickness of the thicker knuckle end of the hinge?

        Thanks again!

        Erich 

2. 
   IanC | Aug 20, 2003 08:21pm | #6

   Erich,   They will be slightly inset along the entire length of the hinge leaf.  I agree they would look better flush but then you're back to a large gap at the back of the box.  So it's a compromise and I think the credit card gap is a good rule. I also like Steins' method of  working with some scrap first especially when working with a router.  Hinging small boxes, especially with Brusso's and other quality hinges with thick leaves can be trying for anyone.  For things to go well, the box has to be perfectly square, the box sides have to be of consistent thickness, the screws often want to veer slightly off course, and especially fun is when the head of the last screw twists off cause you overtightened it to align the slots!!   You'll develop little tricks, especially for marking out and drilling, with each new pair. 

   Your last sentence is right on. 

   Ian